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Old 02-26-2009, 02:48 PM   #31
evintho
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Remove the bellhousing. The bolts go through the long tubes (4) on the engine stand head and thread into the block where the bellhousing was bolted to.

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1989 Mustang convertible w/built and turbo'd 2.3.


Last edited by evintho; 02-26-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 02-27-2009, 12:26 AM   #32
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Ah sweet thanks! Do you by chance know how long the bolts need to be and what kind of thread they have? Are grade 8 something that I can get at the local hardware store?

evintho, may I ask what that black/ gray thing is on the side of your engine under your intake? Also, I noticed that you are running a Ranger cam in yours is this cam better than the stock turbo cam?
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:34 AM   #33
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Just measure the length of your stand tubes and add an inch or so, so it threads through the block. I believe the 2 bolts on the bottom, in the pic, go right through the holes and have nuts on the other end 'cause those 2 bottom holes are dowel pin holes and they're not threaded.

Home Depot probably has some Grade 8 although they really aren't necessary. The shortblock only weighs 200 lbs. But hey, safety first! The black/grey thing is the housing/bracket for my power steering pump. The only advantage to the Ranger roller is less wear and tear on the valvetrain. I think the duration and lift are pretty much the same. Maybe a little better low end power. Pull your valve cover and see. With all the mods that motor has you may have a roller, or something better, already in there!
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:45 PM   #34
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Just in case anyone was wondering. (Cause I know I was, lol) Got a bit of history on the Capri, turns out the original owner sold it to some kid who rallied it and burned out the transmission. JY was going to start it up, but didn't have any keys so it went straight into the yard without any further testing. Consider that your totally usless trivia for the day or somethin'.

I finally got the turbo from the TC, unfortunately there is a crack on the inside, hopefully you can see it in the pic. It is only on the inside, there are no signs of it on the outside of the housing. Is this going to cause any problems down the road? Is there anyway to fix it or is it best just to leave it alone?
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:01 AM   #35
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Is that it in the middle of the roof? If so, and it doesn't go through, you should be able to run that. However, I would definitely negotiate with the yard owner. Get him down to at least $75!
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Old 02-28-2009, 04:09 AM   #36
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Um...no it is right along the side, it starts where the abrubt change of coloration is.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:11 AM   #37
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Mine had a crack there and it worked fine, but hey use it to bargain the price

Pic of my crack
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:51 PM   #38
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mine had a crack but i used some copper welding rods and welded it back up and you cant even notice it, but the thing about the manifolds are if you leave them sitting on a work bench or shelf or anywhere to long they shrink,
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:53 PM   #39
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hey 7 zero where are you located?
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:30 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie92 View Post
mine had a crack but i used some copper welding rods and welded it back up and you cant even notice it, but the thing about the manifolds are if you leave them sitting on a work bench or shelf or anywhere to long they shrink,
Thats why you BOLT it to the table/head so it doesn't shrink or warp the mounting flange when welding it...
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Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
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