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this new noise sounds a lot like a glazed belt squealing from the outside. but when you open the hood, you realize the sound is coming from the throttle body area (not the front of the motor) the noise goes away while accelerating, or revving. but as it comes back down, it starts up again. the lower the rpm of the motor the lower pitched the squeal is. could this be a vacuum leak? any suggestions?
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Did you try spraying starter fluid around suspect areas where you may think you have a vacuum leak? That would be the first thing i would do as well as doing a thorough check of all my lines. Usually, if a gasket it bad, you will see a build up of dirt in one particular area if that make sense
ok i have been considering selling this car. how much do you guys think its worth?
rebuilt tranny, motor, and paint.
i have a little over 4 grand into this car so far.
Maybe $2,000. I wouldn't sell it though, having put that much into the car. The car market sucks right now for sellers.
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"The battery is discharging, the oil temperature is very high, the oil pressure is very low, the engine temperature is off the end of the scale, I'm running out of petrol, but the clock is correct!"- James May
when driving back from the lake on sunday, it died. i traced it back to the ignition, and the only part thats not new in the ignition system was the TFI. So i replaced it. After i set the base timing, i plugged the SPOUT back in, and it dropped the idle to about 500 rpms. and took the timing to 10-15* after TDC. when you unhook the SPOUT, it runs fine, could this mean a bad computer? what is in the spout circuit? i cant seem to find any material anywhere online about that specific circuit. any help would be great.
The timing is 10-15 AFTER tdc? With the spout out the computer wont advance or retard your timing, it's used to set the base timing. Basically your eec has no sensors to tell where the crank & camshaft is in relation to the distributor in that type of setup, it relies on someone pulling the spout out & setting it to factory settings so the computer can adjust from there. Normally it should be in the 20s or 30s BTDC (at least that's where most cars run) with the spout in. I wouldn't go blaming the eec just yet. I would check the distributor first.
As for the sound. I would take a long screwdriver with a plastic handle, put the tip on parts of your engine, then hold your head to the other end. It's a good way of narrowing down where a sound is coming from. Vacuum leaks can usually be located by running your hands around the intake & vacuum lines while listening for the pitch to change. Parts bolted to the engine can make it sound like it's coming from the intake area. I had one case where a 5.0's water pump had bad bearings & was causing it to do something similar, but the sound seemed like it was coming from the lower intake. & you also have a distributor there.
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If you have to ask what it takes to get to 500 HP, you don't have what it takes to get there.
'89 Mustang GT
'86 Mustang vert
'84 TT 351w notch
'89 Turbo Ranger
'96 Musta
so i had to fix my valve cover gasket the other day (leaking some oil) and put some silicone on the throttle body and the upper to lower intake gaskets, and the noise is gone.
could the timing problem be a knock sensor? because the timing is being retarded when the spout is in, when it isnt, it runs fine at 15-20*
so i had to fix my valve cover gasket the other day (leaking some oil) and put some silicone on the throttle body and the upper to lower intake gaskets, and the noise is gone.
could the timing problem be a knock sensor? because the timing is being retarded when the spout is in, when it isnt, it runs fine at 15-20*
What's your base set at?
__________________
If you have to ask what it takes to get to 500 HP, you don't have what it takes to get there.
'89 Mustang GT
'86 Mustang vert
'84 TT 351w notch
'89 Turbo Ranger
'96 Musta
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new noise.. dont like it
