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1987 Mustang Convertible LX 2.3L, Automatic, clean title, 103,xxx or 203,xxx miles (Carfax doesn't have mileage upon transfers as it wasn't registered in GA but this was 10 years ago), engine and trans still running/working well, couple of rust spots but nothing 'through', needs battery (as in the owner removed it), missing hood latch (will have to tie it down for the drive), convertible top motor is missing, window regulators sticking (PW/PL/PS).
I have an XR4Ti so I'm familiar with the engine mechanicals and what all to test/look out for.
I need some help on the C4 though, where is the fluid filler? where is the dipstick for it?
Also, can the electric convertible top be put down manually? If not can it be rigged to do so?
I'm not expecting the moon on this car, the lady only wants $600 for it, but I'm going to talk her down because I want this car for BABE...
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There is no C4 on the 2.3. Its the A4LD. This is one of the worst trans made by Ford. They only became more reliable towards the early 90's.
The dip stick for that trans is located by the rear of the valve cover by the fire wall. To get to the filter, you will need to remove the trans pan.
For the convertible top, its pretty difficult to push it down manually, never mind trying to pull it back up.
As for looking over the car, take an OBD1 scanner with you if you have access to one to check for codes. You could also take a vacuum gauge with you so you can check the engine condition as well as a compression tester. Other than that, its just going to be common sense.
$600 seems like an o.k price but for a few hundred more, you could probably get a better condition one. The vert top motors alone are expensive. But i guess it all depends on what your plans are for the car.
There is no C4 on the 2.3. Its the A4LD. This is one of the worst trans made by Ford. They only became more reliable towards the early 90's.
The dip stick for that trans is located by the rear of the valve cover by the fire wall. To get to the filter, you will need to remove the trans pan.
For the convertible top, its pretty difficult to push it down manually, never mind trying to pull it back up.
As for looking over the car, take an OBD1 scanner with you if you have access to one to check for codes. You could also take a vacuum gauge with you so you can check the engine condition as well as a compression tester. Other than that, its just going to be common sense.
$600 seems like an o.k price but for a few hundred more, you could probably get a better condition one. The vert top motors alone are expensive. But i guess it all depends on what your plans are for the car.
Hope this helps.
Yeah, I meant A4, sorry bout that, and that's what I've heard now on other boards about these guys, looks like unless the rims on it are worth a pretty penny I'll stay away from it (it has some kind of 5 star 4 lug rims that i swore she said weld, but weld doesn't make 5 star 4 lug rims so i dunno)
The scan tool is not obi or ii. It is eec-iv. The trans is a4ld and is the worst. Check for burn't fluid smell. Look for rust under it etc especially the floorboards on a convertable. Hood latch same a same year mustang. That should be easy to find. Maurice
With OBD 1 each manufacturer used their own unique codes and definitions as well as connectors for identifying failures in the computerized engine management system.
Well, I've got a 93 with a bad top motor, and it was a pain and a half to try to put the top up.
That is, until I disconnected the hydraulic pistons from the top frame linkage. Just remove 2 pins, and the top flips back effortlessly, and requires only minor effort to pull back into the up position.
Nice for when it starts to rain. It takes about ten seconds to hop out of the car, and flip the top into the up position so it can be latched shut.
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Going to look at a 2.3L Convertible, advice...?
