Quote:
ORIGINAL: goz40
I did mention I remove radiator cap and warmed engine. (I will also note my driveway is on a incline so the radiator cap is at a higher level than the thermosat) when the thermosat opened and the coolant level dropped I refilled radiator to proper level. This is also an alternative way to purge air from system if you rather not mess with the bolt on top of the thermosat housing. It still overheat and lost heat this morning? I also check the fluid levels a few hours later and they were fine. At this point I did remove the bolt in the thermosat housingand poured antifreeze directly into it until it flowed out of the top of the radiator (cap removed). this did not fix the problem still overheated and lost heat on ride home from work.
|
you do not remove the bolt and fill it there. you loosen the bolt and continue to fill the radiator until coolant comes out the side hole of the bolt.
that pushes the air out.
do this with the heater on highest temperature setting and the engine running - slightly warm but not hot, warm enough to open the stat.
I dont know what else to say that hasnt been said already... its just the order that you accomplish it. You may choose to skip all the simple stuff and go back to the engine and the heads, but I wouldn't do it without being otherwise convinced by seeing steam or having the exhaust sampled.
engine coolant systems, next to brakes, are one of the automobile's most basic, primitive systems that have hardly changed over time. The "water pump" is the only device that can move the coolant consistently. if you're not convinced that coolant is circulating, the pump needs replacing (a pump does not have to weep to be bad).
the radiator and the heater core accomplish the same function - heat transfer. but the car should run cool or not overheat while idling and the heater off. if it starts running hot when sitting still but cools off when driving, your fan is not working.
some engine block designs are designed whereby air pockets are formed, which happens with these year models. doesn't matter if the rad fill neck is higher than the stat or block cause its the stat housing at a high point, the coolant in and out are lower than the housing.
I hope things eventually work out. I would like to know what the fix is if and when it gets healthy again.