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Old 12-13-2007, 07:34 AM   #4
kalli
5th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Vehicle: 1964, Ford, Mustang
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 4,023
Default RE: Basics of auxiliary fuse box

Quote:
ORIGINAL: mySAVIOReigns

Does anyone on here know where I can find a good reference ..... relays and all that?
how a relay works is quite simple. it's nothing but an electronic switch.

if you check on the great diagram:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/...lightRelay.gif

at the lower right you'll find the workings of the Bosch relay ...-150

there are 5 connectors. 1 of them is not used (#87A). So forget about this one.

now what you see in the picture is the relay in the position off.

the battery+ is connected to #30
battery- (ground) is hooked up to #85

your light switch is connected to #86
and the connector at the headlight itself is hooked to #87

So let's check on that:
you have + and - on #30 and #85 (doesn't do anything)
as you can see in the diagram the little switch on port #30 is currently connected to #87A (that means you have 12V+ on this one from #30). But as it's not used, forget about it
Now here comes the interesting bit:
As soon as you flick on your headlight switch, you'll have 12V+ on #86. which will go through the coil in the relay causing (with a magnetic field) the switch changing
it changes from #30->#87A to #30->#87

that means you now have 12V+ on #87, (nothing on #87A) anymore. This way your headlight is fed with power causing it to light.

Now you probably think: why all that ????

you could always go:
lightswitch
"Battery plus" ----------------------/------------+
|
|
X (headlight)
|
|
"Battery minus" ----------------------------------+


this is exactly what the older Mustangs are doing. But it has a lot of problems.
a) you don't want heavy gauge wires under dash
b) you run through a million connectors (causing this dim headlight issue)
c) you can properly separate the switched circuit from the powered (working) circuit
this way your the headlight gets the power directly from the selonoid without haveing t0o bother through firewall, dash, etc ....
probably a cause for headlight switches to give up constantly

hope that helps ...




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1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back.
http://www.gascc.ie

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