billet quadrant, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable

[HC_CrAzYHoRsE]

Install for billet quadrant, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable. The install is pretty easy overall. The only difficulty I had was removing the stock quadrant and the cotter pins that hold it in. I recommend removing the driver's seat to give you a little more room, but it is not a must. You will also need a flashlight or light of some kind. This walk through may not be the greatest, but hopefully will give you an idea if you've never done this before. Prior to removing the old cable, check to see how it is routed so the new one can be routed the same way. Start by removing the clutch fork cover from the drivers side of your bellhousing. Remove the cable from the fork to give you slack in the cable. Looking up under the dash toward the center console, find the white-ish yellow plastic quadrant and unhook the clutch cable. Go to the firewall where your cable comes out and unscrew the bushing peice from the firewall. Also unscrew the cable bracket down by the K-member and your cable should come right off. Once the cable is out, some small needle nose pliars will help you remove the pin in the quadrant and the one in the smaller piece [by pulling straight out on the closed end of each pin]. Pushing the clutch pedal to the floor helps w/ accessibility in some cases. Keep the pins as you will reuse them. Once the pins are out, slide each piece off it's post. The quadrant came off pretty easily on mine, but the smaller piece took some prying w/ a screwdriver. There are springs behind each, so be careful not to pop yourself when they come off. [PICTURE 1] The Steeda kit I used has a spacer that goes on the main post first, then you can slide the quadrant on both posts. Next, put the pins back in both posts [PICTURE 2]. Once you're done w/ that, you can get to work on the cable and firewall adjuster. W/ the Steeda kit, you need to pull off the rubber bushing that comes on the firewall side of the cable [PICTURE 3] and sand/grind off the little tabs that hold it on [PICTURE 4]. Once they're gone you can slide the firewall adjuster on. Run the cable thru the hole, leaving plenty of slack. If you don't you'll have to push the cable from the other end so that you can reach it under the dash. Mount the firewall adjuster per the instructions [mine had self tapping screws, 1 on top and 1 bottom] [PICTURE 5]. Once you mount the new cable bracket in the same place down by the K-member, you can reattach the cable to the quadrant. It is easier if you have someone helping you that can put tension on the cable once you get it attached so it doesn't come off. Then it's just a matter of attaching the cable to the clutch fork. Be sure to adjust tension before you put the clutch fork cover back on. Once it's where you want it, put the cover back on and have a beer. If any one think I've missed something please let me know....thanks. PIC 1--This is the looking in the hole where the firewall adjuster and cable mount. You can see the smaller piece of the original quadrant setup inside the hole on the left. I pryed it off from here [w/ the pedal to the floor]. PIC 2--On your back looking up, this is what you see w/ the new quadrant installed. PIC3--The old cable w/ the rubber bushing and the new one w/ the bushing removed. PIC 4--This shows the adjuster and the cable w/o the bushing. You can also [kind of] see the tabs that need to be ground off at the end of the plastic part. PIC 5--Cable and firewall adjuster installed.

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