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Hmmm....I don't think I would worry. If you feel like wasting money, take it to someone. Otherwise keep an eye on it, if it gets worse, it will be time for you to learn a little about rearends.
Here is the explanation... when the clutch packs wear, they take up less space. So that allows the two bigger spider gears to move outward away from each other. The "C" clips ride in a machined circle in those spider gears. So when the spider gears move outward from each other, so do the axles. On a new or freshly built differential, the splined ends of the axles are supposed to be close but not touching the retaining pin that runs down through the smaller set of spider gears. As the clutch packs wear this gap between the pin and axle end widens and you get excessive end play of the axles... which is exactly what you have. You need to install a new clutch and shim pack to close this gap back up and you will get rid of the end play and restore the "traction loc" action of your differential. I hope this has cleared things up for you.
Clutch pack : YELLOW arrow
Big spider gear : BLUE arrow
Pin location : RED line
That helps out alot, thanks. I can fix about anything on a car, just never messed with the rear ends too much, is replacing the clutch pack pretty simple?
It's best to have someone who knows what they're doing help you out for the first time, but then it will be a piece of cake for you to do one on your own.
Here's the general idea, but not all the information needed to do the job, so do you homework if you plan on doing this yourself.
1. remove the small retaining pin bolt
2. remove retaining pin
3. remove "C" clips and axles
4. remove "S" spring
5. remove main caps
6. lift diff from housing and set the main bearings and races off to the side...DON'T mix them up
7. remove ring gear
8. "roll" the spider gears from diff
9. take out clutch and shim "stacks" from each side
10. install new clutches and shims... total thickness is VERY important
11. reassemble unit
you say total thickness is important.. so i need to measure it? if i buy the rebuild kit i may not have to use all the parts? i work at a machine shop so i know alot about tolerances... do you know what the thickness is supposted to be or what i need to make sure of?
Both sides must be equal in thickness and the goal is to have the splined ends of the axles close but not touching the retaining pin when they are installed. (about 1/32" between pin and end of axle) Basically what I do is pull the axels out as far as I can in the unit that I'm getting ready to rebuild (before I remove anything) and measure with feeler gauges the space between the axles and the pin. This is the amount I have to add to the thickness of the old clutch/shim packs to close the gap. Then measure the old packs when I get them out and add what shimsI need to get the total measurement... minus the 1/32" I need for end play on each axle. This may take several trys to get it right, so plan on putting it together and taking it apart a few times. It's possible to get it too tight and not be able to get the pin back in because the axle ends are too close to each other.
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RE: 8.8 Reaend Has Play.....
