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Old 06-30-2009, 09:19 PM   #1
matpat
 
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Default intake manifold question

i want to change my injector so, take off everything in the way except the manifold. There is 5 or 6 bolt on it.I take off all of them but i`n not able to take off my intake manifold. does is the gasket maker is the thing that holdd on that hard my manifold.

i wanna know what is the color of the injector 19 pouunds and the 24 pounds

thanks
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:11 PM   #2
jkrum10238
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i used rtv one time i had to use a hammer and a 2x4 on the manifold to break it lose the 19s are orange and the 24s are blue generaly
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:18 PM   #3
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There are 8 bolts holding the upper intake down. Once you get the upper intake off, just take loose the wiring harness from the injectors, then take loose the 4 small bolts holding the fuel rail in place. Once that is done you can lift up the fuel rail and the injectors will come out fairly easy.. You might want to depressurize the fuel system before you pull injectors or you will have a a spill..

Are you going to get a tune or MAF that is calibrated for 24# injectors??
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:25 PM   #4
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Also it is best not to use gasket maker to seal the upper and lower intake manifolds. When compressed it will squeeze into the intake runners and affect flow. Get a gasket from the parts house. Although i have had to get a block of wood and pry between the valve cover and upper intake on the drivers side to remove one that was done with gasket maker.
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:43 PM   #5
matpat
 
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i finally get the manifold out of there,man that was not a easy job lol i pry like a crazy to take it off. yes i buy a gasket from a market and yes my maf his calibrad for this 24 pounds injector.
do i have to know something else after i put the new injector in place.

thank for they answer
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:23 PM   #6
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Just remember to put all the vacuum lines back in the correct spot. Also you need to torque the intake down in a certain sequence so that it won't warp and cause a vacuum leak at the seal. I dont have a link to the sequence but it can be found easy on the net.. Good Luck..

Richard
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:25 PM   #7
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i`m pretty newbie in mecanic so can you explain me what s the vaccum line and to torque the intake.

That s what i did.
i take off the fuel rail by taking out the two bolt.After i replace one by one the 19 pounds inecjector for the 24 pounds injector so the sensor are all at the same place. (are the injector have a specific place or they can go in of the the 8 holes.)
I put back my fuel rail on the injector and i hit it with a robber hammer.
I put the key in the ignition and I prime the line I went to see if there was any leak but nothing was leaking.
i didn t start the car because the tb and the maf was not instal yet.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:22 PM   #8
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Vacuum lines.. Plural.. Do you understand how the vacuum in your engine controls other functions of the car? The air rushing through the intake into the engine creates a so called vacuum (low pressure).. This vacuum controls several other functions of the car.. For instance the fuel pressure regulator. When vacuum is greatest (at idle, because throttle blade is closed creating low pressure) the regulator doesn't allow as much fuel through.. As opposed to full throttle (increased pressure/less vacuum) the pressure regulator is wide open letting more fuel through.. You should have vacuum lines run off of the manifold vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator (controls fuel pressure), Egr valve (If still in use), and the emissions stuff on the rear passenger side of engine bay.. Manifold vacuum should also be hooked up to the black plastic piece on the drivers side firewall (controls brake booster, cruise control, and A/C functions).. There might be a couple of other lines also, its been so long since i have messed with the stock intake and vacuum lines.

More clear or muddier?

And also when you torque a bolt that means that you have to tighten the bolts to a certain torque rating which is measure in foot pounds (ft/lbs). Means how much force is applied when tightening the bolt. Torque sequence is where you tighten bolts to a certain ft/lbs, but in a certain order (sequence).. You do this so that you do not warp the mating surfaces of the intake and cause vacuum to leak from the seal.. Any vacuum leak is un-metered air entering the engine... Which is bad.. The MAF measures air intake and determines how much fuel the injectors should squirt out. When un-metered air enters an engine (vacuum leak), it leans out the fuel mixture because that air is not being accounted for by the MAF..

That make sense??
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #9
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i put sticker on every vaccum lines so i can remember where they go and i will find the sequence.
i sand the extra gasket with a sand paper ( very small sanding,there is no groove)
do you think that my sanding can cause a vaccum leak ?
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:35 PM   #10
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Matpat. Are you putting 24's on a stock motor? If you are your drivabililty won't be as good as with the 19's.
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2005, 40, 50, egr, gasket, idle, intake, leak, leaks, lower, maker, manifold, mustang, seal, upper, vacume, valve

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