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Your car can have codes without the lights on. Get a Haynes manual for the love of god. There are three different codes, Memory codes, Key on engine off codes, and Key on Engine on codes. If you get a code 14 (which I'm feeling you'll prolly get since it doesn't light up when running) you need a new $50 distributor. My car was doing the same thing for three years till I figured that out. If that is the problem, make sure you get the exact distributor (i.e. cast iron vs. steel) you are replacing, otherwise you'll royally fu** up your engine like the good Mark Neib did (see sig).
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'90 GT vert, tri-white, too much to list.
"I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine... The car won't freaking start now."-Mark Neib
Your car can have codes without the lights on. Get a Haynes manual for the love of god. There are three different codes, Memory codes, Key on engine off codes, and Key on Engine on codes. If you get a code 14 (which I'm feeling you'll prolly get since it doesn't light up when running) you need a new $50 distributor. My car was doing the same thing for three years till I figured that out. If that is the problem, make sure you get the exact distributor (i.e. cast iron vs. steel) you are replacing, otherwise you'll royally fu** up your engine like the good Mark Neib did (see sig).
I've gone back and forth with the feeling that the distributor is faulty. But, i'll check codes first....It has to be a steel gear btw, at least for my set-up...A while back, when I was buying the new motor, I was interested in getting the MALLORY distributor; found on 50resto.com
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Originally Posted by Black89LX
what is your timing set at?
My timing is at 13, as of two years ago. I'm going to check that as soon as my timing gun gets returned to me.
As it turns out, something came up and I need the money else where. So, I'm putting this all off until I have the time as well. (I'm moving; in the middle of legal issues)
Yes. Stop replacing parts and start diagnosing the problem. This will save you a lot of money, hassle and not any perfectly good parts tossed into the trash can.
By your description, it sounds like the ignition timing isn't being advanced enough when you accelerate. Look closely at the old spark plugs and see if they look fuel fouled or covered in deposits. Go to AllData.com or AutoZone and buy an All Data repair guide for your car. Diagnose, don't replace.
Last edited by RogerDodger1; 11-18-2009 at 02:27 PM.
The things that I replaced, i did in fact need, all besides the fuel lines.. fan and clutch were inevitable.. The car still runs iffy... But I agree with you, I should diagnose a little more... and it would help me out in many ways.
I did in fact look at the spark plugs, when I replaced them, and they looked fine - gaps were still good, no deposits, wear, or fuel fouled.
My next form action is to get my mechanic to run codes.
For what you pay a mechanic to check for trouble codes, you can purchase a $50 scanner at Sears and do it yourself, or go to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone and the will scan the car/check for trouble codes for you for free.
For what you pay a mechanic to check for trouble codes, you can purchase a $50 scanner at Sears and do it yourself, or go to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone and the will scan the car/check for trouble codes for you for free.
Once again you are directing a member in the wrong direction, No 1 Autozone does not perform obd 1 scans on vehicles nor do they have the KNOW HOW.....50 DOLLAR CODE SCANNER..COME ON.....what a waste....how 'bout DIY KOEO/KOER test with a paper clip.........posts like this just show me where your tech knowledge is...and it's not with a FORD....Here educate yourself:http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html
GOOD STUFF HUH??? and it's free
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
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