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I enjoy learning and working on the car myself, it just is very perplexing sometimes for someone who has no knowledge of the tasks at hand
I love how someone throws a part out and you slap it on and it still doesn't fix the issue.....if you enjoy wasting money, it's your dough, or you could just follow the link I posted and see what the self diagnostics in your car turn up..ie codes??? just a thought
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__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
i've had a mechanic working with me over the issue. he's gone through and diagnosed the engine. he's confident a tune is the only issue
i've had other guys tell me it needs a tune as well. but two months ago the operational level of the car was infinitely higher.
I had the rear end gears changed from 273s to 410s. that's when this performance, or lack there of became an issue. my last sheet reported my A/F ratio as 10:1.
I apologize for my ignorance. I had a friend help me in attempting a KOER/KOEO test (which he was better at claiming to know how to do than actually doing). He couldn't make much of any results. I'll go through today or tomorrow and attempt it myself.
Thanks for the continued replies
Last edited by mtoliverjr; 09-09-2009 at 02:18 PM.
I'm re-attempting the KOER test later. My codes from KOEO were
65 85 13333
85 85 13333
on the two attempts. I might have miscounted the 65 as an 85.
85 = gas solenoid troubles. I was told that isn't necessary for function, but I'd love a second opinion. I'll pull these codes 2-3 more times and the KOER codes 5 times for clarity and report back
i've had a mechanic working with me over the issue. he's gone through and diagnosed the engine. he's confident a tune is the only issue
I've been working on these cars a long time and I'm confident your mechanic is not in tune....I mean no disrespect either saying that, I've worked on mustangs with far more mods than you have and that have used a stock ecm and have run fine and not need a so called chip/tune.......the 133333 code you got is not a code, you need to redo the koer and get accurate results........also with bog issues make sure your maf is matched to inj, fuel pressure set right, distributor installed properly and timed properly, tps set, no vaccum leaks pressent and so forth
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
I should probably make a new thread to cut through clutter, but I've already made a noob of myself. I apologize for dancing around the issue without better research. I've gotten a little more involved and have this to report:
KEOE test: ran twice, same results. 67 85 67 85 13333(endlog)
67- Neutral Drive switch open or AC ON (ac was off, radio face disconnected)
67- Clutch circuit failure
85- Canister purge circuit failure
85- Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
85- Adaptive fuel lean limit reached
I'm not sure what to gather from this. I guess the clutch circuit failure could cause the hard starts I've been experiencing after the cars been running a while? I was told the solenoid isn't a big deal. Could the Adaptive mean no 02 sensor function?
KOER: repeated twice.
4 11 (start sequence) 21 94 44 33 21 94 44 3 (car died)
restarted machine, flashed a quick 3 (assuming the end of the previous string)
after the car reved up to 14-17 for a few seconds, when it dropped to 900 it made a harsh backfire
after reving up again, second code batch 94 44 33 94 44 33
21- ECT out of self test range (cold engine?) discarding
33- EGR Valve not opening, OR EGR not fully closed
assuming this is the EVR not doing it's job properly. Reading more on this later
44-Thermactor air system inoperative RH
94-" "LH
involves parts
Air supply pump
Air bypass valve
Combination air bypass/air control valve
solenoid vacuum valve
thermactor idle vacuum valve
air pump resonator
no clue where to start with that system. not sure what all that stuff does but i'll be reading over it
The car doesn't really cut out on me like it had been doing. The hard starts are still happening but I can get it running so far.
It stands up like a champ more or less when I first crank it. 30 seconds later it's got a vicious sluggishness present past 1500 rpms.
I didn't do the cylinder test yet. Wasn't sure if I needed to bother with it. Didn't see any codes that'd display. If it's useful I'll do it.
I have my suspicions but I'm obviously a scrub. I'm planning to swap the 02s because I feel that they're suspect, and I was going to reset the computer with 30 minute battery disconnect/headlights on. If any of that is ill-advised, I appreciate the notion to not bother.
I appreciate any input on the matter. I'm sorry it took me so long to present the problem in a legitimate manner. Thanks for your patience, if there's anything else I should share to help convey problems I'll be glad to.
Last edited by mtoliverjr; 09-10-2009 at 08:43 PM.
I should probably make a new thread to cut through clutter, but I've already made a noob of myself. I apologize for dancing around the issue without better research. I've gotten a little more involved and have this to report:
KEOE test: ran twice, same results. 67 85 67 85 13333(endlog)
67- Neutral Drive switch open or AC ON (ac was off, radio face disconnected)
67- Clutch circuit failure
85- Canister purge circuit failure
85- Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
85- Adaptive fuel lean limit reached
I'm not sure what to gather from this. I guess the clutch circuit failure could cause the hard starts I've been experiencing after the cars been running a while? I was told the solenoid isn't a big deal. Could the Adaptive mean no 02 sensor function?
KOER: repeated twice.
4 11 (start sequence) 21 94 44 33 21 94 44 3 (car died)
restarted machine, flashed a quick 3 (assuming the end of the previous string)
after the car reved up to 14-17 for a few seconds, when it dropped to 900 it made a harsh backfire
after reving up again, second code batch 94 44 33 94 44 33
21- ECT out of self test range (cold engine?) discarding
33- EGR Valve not opening, OR EGR not fully closed
assuming this is the EVR not doing it's job properly. Reading more on this later
44-Thermactor air system inoperative RH
94-" "LH
involves parts
Air supply pump
Air bypass valve
Combination air bypass/air control valve
solenoid vacuum valve
thermactor idle vacuum valve
air pump resonator
no clue where to start with that system. not sure what all that stuff does but i'll be reading over it
The car doesn't really cut out on me like it had been doing. The hard starts are still happening but I can get it running so far.
It stands up like a champ more or less when I first crank it. 30 seconds later it's got a vicious sluggishness present past 1500 rpms.
I didn't do the cylinder test yet. Wasn't sure if I needed to bother with it. Didn't see any codes that'd display. If it's useful I'll do it.
I have my suspicions but I'm obviously a scrub. I'm planning to swap the 02s because I feel that they're suspect, and I was going to reset the computer with 30 minute battery disconnect/headlights on. If any of that is ill-advised, I appreciate the notion to not bother.
I appreciate any input on the matter. I'm sorry it took me so long to present the problem in a legitimate manner. Thanks for your patience, if there's anything else I should share to help convey problems I'll be glad to.
code 67 is because you didn't have the clutch pushed in while doing the KOEO.
if you live in a state where you can get away with trashing the air pump system, do it.
don't discard the ECT code, that's a crutial sensor for fuel strategies.
EGR valve wouldn't cause the car to die.
have you run a fuel pressure test on the car yet??, if fuel pressure isn't up to par, that'll cause hard starts due to a weak pump or restricted filter
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
when we installed the new FPR after the new fuel pump didn't fix the trick, the new psi was a steady 40 at idle and under load. the old FPR had a pinhair hole in it that let it bleed right back down to 25psi.
at this point the car isn't dying really, just hard starting after it's been running for a while and not performing past 2k rpm
i'm left to suspect it's a sensor that impacts a/f ratio stuff. it runs strong while cold, then flattens out to down right ****e performance once it warms past 140.
is the cylinder balance test worth running? does it tell me anything useful or give me code references?
is there any strong likelihood that a (few) injector(s) are spraying improperly?
just some things floating in my head. the fuel filter on the fuel line (not the one on pump in tank) is about 4 months old. maybe the fresh pump install dropped in some grime that's clogging the fuel filter on fuel line
very open to suggestions as to what I might want to start with
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I've been working on these cars a long time and I'm confident your mechanic is not in tune
....I mean no disrespect either saying that, I've worked on mustangs with far more mods than you have and that have used a stock ecm and have run fine and not need a so called chip/tune.......the 133333 code you got is not a code, you need to redo the koer and get accurate results........also with bog issues make sure your maf is matched to inj, fuel pressure set right, distributor installed properly and timed properly, tps set, no vaccum leaks pressent and so forth
