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after the car warms up it has a significant loss of power... i dont have any dyno #s to compare to but i can tell a big difference.. my air charge temp sensor is showing proper temps and the coolant temp sensor is running form 195-208 as the fan cycles.. my fuel pressure is right @ 39 psi.... 14* timing... i watched my timing on a scanner and it advanced form 20*-40*.. any ideas?
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Does it feel like its got a miss or just lacking power. Is there anyway you can check f/p when this is happening. Maybe a clogged f/f or pump on the way out after getting warm.
i havent checked the fuel pressure as im driving.. ill check that a post my #s..
after it warms up it doesnt miss but it does die sometimes unless i feather the gas
Although a new fuel filter is never a bad thing, you cannot tie it into a running hot problem. The filter sees no heat whatsoever, if its bad or clogged, it will shows signs no matter what.
The pump can overheat though, or have worse performance as it heats up. Checking the fuel pressure is a good idea, but my instinct tells me he's got an ignition problem, most likely the coil.
well i was really hoping for a weak fuel pump... but no.. usual running psi is 37-40 and 45 @ wot then it dips to 34 after i take my foot out of the pedal
next:
i know a guy @ oreillys and he let me borrow a new coil... same no balls
i tested the igniton module and it passed all tests
is it possible that my problem crops up when the car goes into closed loop?
well i was really hoping for a weak fuel pump... but no.. usual running psi is 37-40 and 45 @ wot then it dips to 34 after i take my foot out of the pedal
i also hit the button on the guage hose to test fuel volume and i had a steady constant stream...
next:
i know a guy @ oreillys and he let me borrow a new coil... same no balls
i tested the igniton module and it passed all tests
is it possible that my problem crops up when the car goes into closed loop?
Anything closed loop related would be making very minimal adjustments to your fuel and timing curves, not enough of a difference to cause "no balls". You need to be looking in the direction of hardware failure caused by heat.
Since you tested the TFI(I assume while HOT), the next step is the PIP module inside the distributor, which directly controls injector pulse width & timing, through the TFI.
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