Information found at:
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
1. Which conversion to use?
I would suggest that you first decide which tires and wheels you want to run. If you have a 4 lug car and want to keep your current wheels, that will narrow your options down. 11"and smaller brakes fit under 15"+ wheels, 12" brakes require 16"+ wheels, and 13"+ brakes require a 17" or great diameter wheel. If you are going 5 lug, be sure to decide on the wheels before considering the brakes. With that little information and what you can find local or through a kit, you should be able to narrow your choices down.
2. Which way to convert to 5 lug?
This will really depend on what you want for brakes and the wheels you want to use.
If you want to run all 4 of the same wheels with 9" wide rims, then you are going to want to keep the stock rear track width. You can do this with the Ranger axles basically. You have options from there with the Ranger axles:
rear drums from the ranger
flipped rear disc 11.375" from the Lincoln 85-91 Mark7
Cobra 11.65" rear disc with the BigMac or North Cobra brackets
If you are only going to run 8" wide OEM rims, then the extra offset in the rear from the longer SN95 axles (.75") will not hurt you. But if you go to 9" wide wheels, you will need more offset for the rears like the M179 Cobra R wheels (6.42" BS, 36mm offset).
Basically I would suggest to figure out the wheels you want to run first and then go from there with your decision. For the front, the best is the Sn95 parts with the '94-95 spindles to keep the stock track width. Again, if you are running 8" wide wheels, then the '96+ spindles with the extra 8mm will not hurt you.
Spare Tires
When converting from 4 to 5 lug wheels or from the 94+ GT/V6 brakes to the 13” units, you are going to have to address the spare tire for street use.
You can find 5 lug Ford spare tires with the 5 x 4.5” bolt pattern on many vehicles. Rangers, Explorers, Bronco II, Lincolns, Crown Victorias and the 94+ Mustangs to name a few. Most of the spare tires you will find will be 15” in size. This is the stock spare tire size on the 94+ Mustangs also with the GT and V6 package. So if you are upgrading to the GT/V6 brakes, you should not have a problem finding a spare.
Now when you upgrade to the 13” brakes, the cobras come with a special sized spare tire to fit the larger brake rotors. These are not easy to find and can be costly when you do find one.
There is another solution. Get a 15 or 16” spare from one of the many applications already listed. Now that spare will not clear the front 13” brakes, but will clear the rear brakes just fine. So if you get a flat on the rear, you can just change the tire with the spare. Now if you get a flat in the front tire, what you are going to have to do first is change the spare to the rear tire. Then take the rear tire and swap it with the front one. Keep in mind that this trick only works if you have the same sized wheels on all 4 corners of the car. If you do not, then plan to spend the money for the 94+ cobra spare.
3. 5 Lug Conversion Options:
This page is mostly geared towards the stock 4 lug wheels and stock '87-93 GT/LX wheels. Hence the "budget" name to the page. Here are some of your options for converting to 5 lug:
Cheap way:
-For the 79 v8, 82-86 Mustangs, and 87-93 4 cyls, you can use the 4cyl 83-88 Ranger rotors.
-For the front 87-93 v8 cars, use the rotors from a mid 80's Lincoln Continental, Lincoln Mark VII (85-91), or '84-'86 SVO. For the 79-86 and 87-93 4cyl cars, use the 83-92 4cyl Ranger front rotors. This will keep the cost down and allow you to keep the stock front brakes. You can buy the rotors for about $40-60 each. You an also purchase after market front rotors like the Power Slot brand in 5 lug. These cost about $99 each.
**Important note here! The SVO/Lincoln front rotors will NOT work with the Ford '98 & '99+ Cobra, Y2K Cobra R wheels, and '97+ GT 17" wheels. Most of the wheels will mount up ('98 cobra and the Bullitt wheels will not), but you will not be able to mount the center cap due to the larger dust cap on the rotor. To run these wheels, you need to convert over to the SN95 front brakes (this includes spindles, rotors, hubs and calipers). Alternatively you can use a wheel spacer, but it is not recommended. The Lincoln/SVO rotors will work for the' 95 Cobra R wheel, 16" SN95 Pony wheel, and '99+ 15" & 16" wheel since they have a different center design and cap. If the center of the wheel is recessed, the Lincoln/SVO dust rotor will most likely be to large for the center cap of the wheel.
-The 1995 Ford Cobra R wheel comes in two different offsets, 24 mm and 36 mm. The original Cobra R wheel, the R58, has a 24 mm backspacing which is good for all four corners of an SN-95 car. The R58 also fits well in front of a Fox body car that has the Cobra brake upgrade. But the rear of a Fox M2300-K car requires use a later model, the M179, which has 36 mm of backspacing, and therefore places the wheel 12 mm further inboard to clear the fender well. The R58 and M179 wheels are now discontinued by Ford! Keep this in mind with your conversions. I would suggest to keep the stock rear track to so you can run the aftermarket copies of the R58s on all 4 corners.
Sn95 Parts (94+ mustangs):
Here is the list of parts that you will need:
'94-95 spindles from a V6, GT or Cobra. They are all the same. Left and Right side. These will keep the stock front track. You can use the '96+ newer units, but the track will increase 8mm per side.
2 hubs. These come in ABS and non-ABS units. Either one will work. If you need a new ones, contact PPI for the best price on them.
2 hub nuts to spindle
2 dust caps
4 spindle to caliper mounting bolts (same bolts on all 94-present mustangs)
0.330" tall spacer, 5/8" inside diameter , 1.5" outside diameter (or a stack of washers totaling 0.330"). This is needed to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint (the fox ball joint is about 1/2 taller than the SN95s and you will run out of threads, pic). If you are buying new tubular A arms, get them with the SN95 ball joints. Here are pics of a homemade one: [pic 1] [pic 2]
calipers and rotors -- see part 3.2 to help on this decision!
If your car is lowered, plan on offset rack bushings or a bumpsteer kit with the '94-95 spindles, measure on the '96+ modular units.
Excellent instructions on NoMotivation's website to install everything
Keep in mind that master cylinder, 3-2 port conversion kit , and proportioning valve upgrades will also be needed if you got to rear disc!
Why upgrade to the SN95 spindles on a 79-93 Mustang? There are many benefits to do this. First, the bearings are sealed and separate from the rotors. This keep maintenance very easy since you don't have to pack bearings. Second, they are the basis for brake upgrades such as the Cobra 13" and Brembos. Third, they have better steering geometry creating more ackerman steering. This increases turn in. Lastly, if you want to run some of the OEM Ford 17" and 18" wheels, you will need to run these spindles. Wheels such as the '97+ 17" GT wheels (including the bullitt wheels), the '98-present Cobra wheels, and the Y2K Cobra R wheels.
4. Rear Drum Conversion:
To keep the stock rear wheel offset and drums, the '83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32") is what you want. They are the same rear axles, the center section is just on the opposite side when you compare the rear ends. The pumpkins are also off center unlike the Mustangs, so you will have to find two vehicles to pull axles from! You will need the drums from either of these vehicles also if you are staying with rear 9" drums. The 7.5 axle Rangers & Aerostars us
Fox body 5 lug conversion by Stangpower96
