AdderMk2

yep.. 15 degrees...

that was one thing I wanted to do on the dyno was run my car at stock timing and my current 15 degrees.... I didnt get a chance though. I thought it would be nice to see the difference.

dtuna42

Timing correctly makes a HUGE difference. You basically want to keep bumping the timing up as far as you can go, on premium fuel, until you hear detonation in the top of 3rd gear (I suggest 3rd just because 1st & 2nd typically wind out quickly and you may not hear detonation before that - but obviously if you do, get off of the throttle), then back it down one degree at a time until it goes away. Power-adder cars will take a lot less timing than engine-only because of the added cylinder temp & pressure. Better idea than just setting timing BTDC at the flywheel is to use a programmer to bump the timing and the air/fuel curve in set rpm increments. You'll see a better improvement. Also, keep in mind that most modern cars have knock sensors. I'm not sure about your specific applications, but if you bump up timing too far, you might not even notice detonation, but you'll lose power. This happens when the sensors notice the knock before it's audible to you and retard the timing and/or aggressively richen up the fuel mixture to cool things down, and this will counter act all the work you're trying to do.

BlackSVTsnake302

AdderMk2 could you tell a differnce when you put it at 15degrees? You have the exact same car as me so 15 degrees should be about right for me, I just read problems that people have when they do it it can fukk stuff up

92hatchLX

I'm running 15 degrees timing and I have had no problem, I'm running on 87 octane btw. Is it really that noticable of a difference to run 91 octane and 18 degrees of timing?

Twisted

I went from 6* to 14*, and noticed a BIG difference in performance and gas mileage. I'd actually say I gained like 15-20 horse; although I never dinoed the car. When I bought the car, it felt slow. Since changing the timing, I still marvel at how fast it feels.

dtuna42

That's what I trying to say. Use the best gas you can get and bump the timing up as far as it will go without detonation - knocking and pinging is the signal to retard the timing until detonation is gone. That's how you get the maximum your give will. By making the engine run this efficiantly, you'll then maximize any gains you'd be adding with modifications. I'm pretty sure you'd notice in the seat-of-your-pants if you really advanced it as far as you safely could and used high octain fuel. You could even do a track night with some 100 octain racing fuel and bumping the timing up even further, and I'm sure you would feel it.

94Cobrakid16

is all 92 octain the same, like 76 gas and chevron, shell, and on and on. its all the same?

Goosepoop302

cool time for my dumb *** question,

to cahnge the timing on a 95 stang it would be best to use a timing lite im sure. also to change timing you rotate the distributor correcT? also how the hell do you rotate the distributor

93BlackNotch

I run 16 degrees of base timing with 93 octane... All you have to do is pull the timing spout(A small grey rectangular spout that will be close to the base of the distributor), loosen the distributor hold down, turn the distributor counter clock wise to advance the timing, try a few different settings... 12, 14, 16 degrees of timing and see which one works best with no detonation...

Goosepoop302

out of curiosity did the 93s have the same setup as the 95s?