Tweecer
#1
Tweecer
When you buy the tweecer kit is it something you have to leave hooked up all the time or do you use it and then take it off? I was wondering if I could borrows one and use it then give it back. It would be nice if a shop would use it, charge you a few bucks, and send you on your way, Dave
#4
RE: Tweecer
I wasnt sure if it made changes to your computer and kept it that way or if the module had to stay connected, I have never seen one in person nor have met anyone that uses one
#5
#7
RE: Tweecer
OK I went to that site, but left me with a lot of questions...
What motor mods do you do to use one of these? Obviously you would not need one for a stock motor...
Does it only run by the changes made with only things used by the EEC? PCM,TP,MAF,IAT,IAC etc???
Can you adjust shift points with one?
So it basically just adds more fuel or what?
confused
Mel lol
What motor mods do you do to use one of these? Obviously you would not need one for a stock motor...
Does it only run by the changes made with only things used by the EEC? PCM,TP,MAF,IAT,IAC etc???
Can you adjust shift points with one?
So it basically just adds more fuel or what?
confused
Mel lol
#8
RE: Tweecer
its a reprogramable tuner...instead of getting a chip burned, and then a reburn when you add mods, you can just retune it again and again and again. i dont know much about the tweecer, or tweecer rt. if i was going to get anything, ide get the pms (programable management system) after 3500 rpm, it goes into stand alone mode. aem and f.a.s.t. is also good
#10
RE: Tweecer
Mel - You can add/remove fuel, advance/retard timing (based upon load and RPM), adjust idle speed, speed limiters, egr function, A/C and cooling fan operational temps, as well as a whole stack of other stuff.
But that's not all.. you also change operational parameters such as displacement, injector size, MAF flow/voltage chart, throttle body flow, etc.
Even on a stock engine you'll find a decent gain by running the tweecer (or any other management stuff) because Ford has to deal with emissions and fuel economy which hurts power. On a bone stock 5.0 I would wager you'd see upwards of 20hp gain. I could be wrong, but my gut feeling is that there's untapped power to be made through tuning alone.
Why input the MAF and injector info?
If you get a MAF "calibrated" for 24lb injectors what it does is output lower voltage than stock so that the EEC thinks there's less air flowing through than there really is so the EEC tells the injectors to open for a shorter amount of time, resulting in a more or less correct A/F mixture.
The problem is that it's not exact, so if you tell the EEC that at X voltage there is Y amount of air being blown through, and if the EEC knows that the injectors will flow Z lbs/hr then it can calculate the exact injector pulse to squirt the exact amount of required fuel. No trickery, no guessing or rough estimates.
There's a bunch of interesting stuff you can change (ok interesting if you're a nerd like me) that affect driveability. It's nice to be able to change one little detail, cycle the ignition, and fire it up and see a change.
You can also use it for security stuff. Don't want somebody stealing your ride? Got kids you don't really trust not to take it out while you're out of town? Set the first map to not fire the injectors and unplug the switchbox. Even with the keys the engine won't fire.
Want to keep the valet from smoking your tires off? Set the rev limiter to 2000 rpm and toss him the keys. Set the speed limiter to 20mph. Make that switch setting 2. Gotta pass emissions? change the mixture and save that map to setting 3. Then set setting 4 to be your daily driving/race map. Then to go from one to the other, just turn the ****. Piece of cake.
But that's not all.. you also change operational parameters such as displacement, injector size, MAF flow/voltage chart, throttle body flow, etc.
Even on a stock engine you'll find a decent gain by running the tweecer (or any other management stuff) because Ford has to deal with emissions and fuel economy which hurts power. On a bone stock 5.0 I would wager you'd see upwards of 20hp gain. I could be wrong, but my gut feeling is that there's untapped power to be made through tuning alone.
Why input the MAF and injector info?
If you get a MAF "calibrated" for 24lb injectors what it does is output lower voltage than stock so that the EEC thinks there's less air flowing through than there really is so the EEC tells the injectors to open for a shorter amount of time, resulting in a more or less correct A/F mixture.
The problem is that it's not exact, so if you tell the EEC that at X voltage there is Y amount of air being blown through, and if the EEC knows that the injectors will flow Z lbs/hr then it can calculate the exact injector pulse to squirt the exact amount of required fuel. No trickery, no guessing or rough estimates.
There's a bunch of interesting stuff you can change (ok interesting if you're a nerd like me) that affect driveability. It's nice to be able to change one little detail, cycle the ignition, and fire it up and see a change.
You can also use it for security stuff. Don't want somebody stealing your ride? Got kids you don't really trust not to take it out while you're out of town? Set the first map to not fire the injectors and unplug the switchbox. Even with the keys the engine won't fire.
Want to keep the valet from smoking your tires off? Set the rev limiter to 2000 rpm and toss him the keys. Set the speed limiter to 20mph. Make that switch setting 2. Gotta pass emissions? change the mixture and save that map to setting 3. Then set setting 4 to be your daily driving/race map. Then to go from one to the other, just turn the ****. Piece of cake.