What does my stang need to fly?
04-19-2004, 09:51 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MD
Posts: 76
What does my stang need to fly?
OK so here is my situation, I have a 1991 mustang GT -speed. It has very little work done to it right now, simply a cold air intake, stage 2 centerforce clutch, and the exhaust is unbolted after the cats. I also have a pretty nice sound system in the car, I've done all the speakers, put a lil 800 watt 10 inch sub and have a pretty awesome Pioneer headunit. But none of that really matters because i Have a Big question/in need of advice issue. After this summer I want to replace my motor, one bc its got 106 miles and two bc i want more power.
I have considered rebuilding, but it seems this would be more expensive then just buying a new Long block. I am inexperienced with serious mechanical work so rebuilding it myself is out of the question. I would however like to pull the stock motor out myself to save a little money and gain the experience. I am thinking the FRRP GT-40 Longblock offers about the amount of horse power that I would like to see the stang have. Now for my questions:
Jegs suggests using Motorsport induction kit, headers, and a 65mm throttle body to produce 345 hp. Now i am trying to be as cost effeceint as possible and to do the build up in stages. My first question is what parts will i need to make the long block ready to turn key?
I know the Exhaust is one item that will be done when i put the motor in, I am thinking Equal Length Long Tubes into a shorty catted X-pipe ( for emission purposes ) into a normal cat back system. With the Headers do i want 1 1/2 or the 1 5/8? seems like the 1 5/8 for the better flow? Also what brand will give me the most bang for my buck? in other words whats cheap and effective? With the exhaust system it seems that most are very similar and is more up to sound preferance. I was looking at the exhaust systems by Pypes (they adverise on this site) and they seem to perform as well as dynomax and flowmaster for a fairly better price. What are your thoughts on this?
My next set of questions has to do with the additional peices of hardware that i will need to complete the long block itself. What size throttle body should I use? What Intake manifold is compatible with this motor and which produces the most airflow, also what manifold is best suited for this application? Any other peices i will need to make the motor run other then the intake manifold,throttle body and spacer, cold air intake, what about the MAF? Does this need to be replaced?
After this what do i need to complete the motor? The crate motor comes with the following:
This long block assembly includes a block, crank, rods, pistons, timing chain, standard rocker arms, roller tappets, push rods, oil pump and pickup, oil pan, valve covers, front cover, water pump, damper, flywheel, spark plugs. Included with this assembly are: Ford Racing GT-40X aluminum cylinder heads, which yield 9.0:1 compression ratio and flow significantly better than production 5.0L HO heads. Ford Racing GT-40 valve train kit which includes Springs, retainers, keepers, seals and premium stainless steel swirl polished valves (1.94/Intake, 1.54/exhaust) with undercut stems. High performance hydraulic roller camshaft which provides significant horsepower increases above 2500 rpm and good low-end torque. Valve lift is .498' on both intake and exhaust. Duration at .050' is 220 degrees on both the intake and exhaust.
So i wont need any of those items that it comes with. But is there anything i am forgeting or that i need other wise? l Items like Injectors? What # would be best suited to the N/A setup? Will i need a new fuel pump? What about my distributor? Spark plug wires? I would also like to put an electric fan in when i do this to ease strain off the motor. What am i missing? I really need suggestions in this area because i am going to Big car show on saturday and can more then likely pick up some of this stuff for a good deal. So brands and prices on the TB, Fuel componets, intake manifolds etc etc would be greatly appriciated.
My next question is what is going to need to be replaced after the motor goes in and is up and running? My Transmission has 106k on it as well and its strong but i can tell it wont handle the increase in HP. I have a buddy who had his rebuilt and then lost his stang, so he wants me to buy it from him. He says its been built up similar to the Tremec TKO which is the transmission i am considering if i buy a new one. SO my question here is what should i ask the shop that rebuilt his tranny? What kind of specs am i looking for? I would only buy the tranny bc he would give me a good deal on it. Thoughts on this? I am do the tranny when i do the motor bc this makes most sense i think.
OK so what else is essential to making my car ready for this engine? Its my understanding that the 8.8 rear end is pretty bad ***. How will it hold up against this setup? Its completly stock right now with the orignal gears etc etc. Is it abosolute i put gears and a new posi unit in? Also will the 31 spline axels be need? or will the 28 be fine? Its alright if i break the rear end bc my brother goes to college in the fall and cant bring his car so if it will hold but simply become a matter of time until it breaks let me know.
The next issue is braking, I know i need to be able to brake more effeciently then i do now and would like to go disc all the way around, but it seems most kits are for 5 lug or require you to convert to a 5 lug setup. I would just put big brakes on the front but i want a nice set a 17 cobras so i dont want to ugly looking drum in the rear to stick out. Suggestions? Also i want to lower the car, nothing extreme i was thinking the steeda 1 1/2 Front and 1 rear sport drop would look nice, will i have tire clearance problems? Any how thats getting away from the point since it doesnt really affect the point at hand.
I know this is a monster of a post but its really all the questions that i need to have answer so Thank you very very much in advance.
Any and all suggestions will be appricated --Taylor
I have considered rebuilding, but it seems this would be more expensive then just buying a new Long block. I am inexperienced with serious mechanical work so rebuilding it myself is out of the question. I would however like to pull the stock motor out myself to save a little money and gain the experience. I am thinking the FRRP GT-40 Longblock offers about the amount of horse power that I would like to see the stang have. Now for my questions:
Jegs suggests using Motorsport induction kit, headers, and a 65mm throttle body to produce 345 hp. Now i am trying to be as cost effeceint as possible and to do the build up in stages. My first question is what parts will i need to make the long block ready to turn key?
I know the Exhaust is one item that will be done when i put the motor in, I am thinking Equal Length Long Tubes into a shorty catted X-pipe ( for emission purposes ) into a normal cat back system. With the Headers do i want 1 1/2 or the 1 5/8? seems like the 1 5/8 for the better flow? Also what brand will give me the most bang for my buck? in other words whats cheap and effective? With the exhaust system it seems that most are very similar and is more up to sound preferance. I was looking at the exhaust systems by Pypes (they adverise on this site) and they seem to perform as well as dynomax and flowmaster for a fairly better price. What are your thoughts on this?
My next set of questions has to do with the additional peices of hardware that i will need to complete the long block itself. What size throttle body should I use? What Intake manifold is compatible with this motor and which produces the most airflow, also what manifold is best suited for this application? Any other peices i will need to make the motor run other then the intake manifold,throttle body and spacer, cold air intake, what about the MAF? Does this need to be replaced?
After this what do i need to complete the motor? The crate motor comes with the following:
This long block assembly includes a block, crank, rods, pistons, timing chain, standard rocker arms, roller tappets, push rods, oil pump and pickup, oil pan, valve covers, front cover, water pump, damper, flywheel, spark plugs. Included with this assembly are: Ford Racing GT-40X aluminum cylinder heads, which yield 9.0:1 compression ratio and flow significantly better than production 5.0L HO heads. Ford Racing GT-40 valve train kit which includes Springs, retainers, keepers, seals and premium stainless steel swirl polished valves (1.94/Intake, 1.54/exhaust) with undercut stems. High performance hydraulic roller camshaft which provides significant horsepower increases above 2500 rpm and good low-end torque. Valve lift is .498' on both intake and exhaust. Duration at .050' is 220 degrees on both the intake and exhaust.
So i wont need any of those items that it comes with. But is there anything i am forgeting or that i need other wise? l Items like Injectors? What # would be best suited to the N/A setup? Will i need a new fuel pump? What about my distributor? Spark plug wires? I would also like to put an electric fan in when i do this to ease strain off the motor. What am i missing? I really need suggestions in this area because i am going to Big car show on saturday and can more then likely pick up some of this stuff for a good deal. So brands and prices on the TB, Fuel componets, intake manifolds etc etc would be greatly appriciated.
My next question is what is going to need to be replaced after the motor goes in and is up and running? My Transmission has 106k on it as well and its strong but i can tell it wont handle the increase in HP. I have a buddy who had his rebuilt and then lost his stang, so he wants me to buy it from him. He says its been built up similar to the Tremec TKO which is the transmission i am considering if i buy a new one. SO my question here is what should i ask the shop that rebuilt his tranny? What kind of specs am i looking for? I would only buy the tranny bc he would give me a good deal on it. Thoughts on this? I am do the tranny when i do the motor bc this makes most sense i think.
OK so what else is essential to making my car ready for this engine? Its my understanding that the 8.8 rear end is pretty bad ***. How will it hold up against this setup? Its completly stock right now with the orignal gears etc etc. Is it abosolute i put gears and a new posi unit in? Also will the 31 spline axels be need? or will the 28 be fine? Its alright if i break the rear end bc my brother goes to college in the fall and cant bring his car so if it will hold but simply become a matter of time until it breaks let me know.
The next issue is braking, I know i need to be able to brake more effeciently then i do now and would like to go disc all the way around, but it seems most kits are for 5 lug or require you to convert to a 5 lug setup. I would just put big brakes on the front but i want a nice set a 17 cobras so i dont want to ugly looking drum in the rear to stick out. Suggestions? Also i want to lower the car, nothing extreme i was thinking the steeda 1 1/2 Front and 1 rear sport drop would look nice, will i have tire clearance problems? Any how thats getting away from the point since it doesnt really affect the point at hand.
I know this is a monster of a post but its really all the questions that i need to have answer so Thank you very very much in advance.
Any and all suggestions will be appricated --Taylor
04-20-2004, 12:45 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 4,813
RE: What does my stang need to fly?
WINGS! WHAT ELSE![sm=lol.gif]
Seriously, you need to decide first whether you want to keep the EFI or go with a carburetor setup. You should be able to transplant all the EFI stuff from your existing motor to the new one including all the accessories on the front of the motor. You can go this way at first as it is the cheapest option for you right now. you would want to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for about $100 and a pressure gauge for another $40. the rear end is OK unless you plan on dropping the clutch with slicks at 6,000 rpm! if yes, then you need to go to at least a 31 spline axle. I would put in some 3.55 gears though. brakes are a pick-em, but I would go with the 5 lug set up for the long term. go with 1-5/8 inch headers and you probably do want to get the other transmission based on the age of yours. hope this helps some!
Seriously, you need to decide first whether you want to keep the EFI or go with a carburetor setup. You should be able to transplant all the EFI stuff from your existing motor to the new one including all the accessories on the front of the motor. You can go this way at first as it is the cheapest option for you right now. you would want to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for about $100 and a pressure gauge for another $40. the rear end is OK unless you plan on dropping the clutch with slicks at 6,000 rpm! if yes, then you need to go to at least a 31 spline axle. I would put in some 3.55 gears though. brakes are a pick-em, but I would go with the 5 lug set up for the long term. go with 1-5/8 inch headers and you probably do want to get the other transmission based on the age of yours. hope this helps some!
04-20-2004, 01:34 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MD
Posts: 76
RE: What does my stang need to fly?
Oh indeed, I completly forgot, i think i am going to stay with the EFI as its what i have already. How about my injectors? Will the stock fuel pump work? This is going to be a street and occsciaonally a strip so no 6000 drops on slicks in the close future.THX
04-20-2004, 01:41 AM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Posts: 4,813
RE: What does my stang need to fly?
the stock fuel pump and 19#/hr injectors are supposed to be good for about 300 HP, so you probably don't need to change them right now.
I couldn't resist the little humor, but you left yourself wide open for that one though! LOL
I couldn't resist the little humor, but you left yourself wide open for that one though! LOL
04-20-2004, 02:07 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MD
Posts: 76
RE: What does my stang need to fly?
I know i left myself open, dont worry though i am not one of these guys that gets offended at a little joke Well the engine is supposedly rated at 345 hp... so does that change things? Also suggestions on intake manifolds that will work with this setup and improve flow greatly would be appriciated. I have the Carlise car show coming up so its a good oppirtunity to pick up parts for cheap$$$$$
Well the engine is supposedly rated at 345 hp... so does that change things? Also suggestions on intake manifolds that will work with this setup and improve flow greatly would be appriciated. I have the Carlise car show coming up so its a good oppirtunity to pick up parts for cheap$$$$$
04-20-2004, 02:15 AM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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RE: What does my stang need to fly?
that rating is with the motorsports induction kit and 65 mm throttle body. if you're on a budget, then just reuse your existing top end and see how it goes from there. edelbrock and holley both make good intakes if you're looking for an upgrade. you probably just need the Performer not the Performer RPM unless you're looking for some serious HP. to get there, you will probably also need 30# injectors and at least a 70 mm throttle body along with a larger fuel pump and regulator.
04-20-2004, 03:51 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Posts: 76
RE: What does my stang need to fly?
so is it possible to produce more then the 345hp rating simply by using a different intake setup? The reuse of the top end is appealing, since i could just buy these parts later, however would the engine starve for air at all? what about fuel? Oh and id like to get as much hp as possible when i do buy my intake manifold, and if its only a difference of a couple hundred bucks i can deal with that. Also would buying the RPM or tickflows track heat negetivly affect the stock motor if i put it on while i am saving for the long block?
04-20-2004, 05:02 AM
#9
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RE: What does my stang need to fly?
sure, but it takes more than just the right intake, you need the right cam, headers, heads, etc. but the basic 5.0 block can make all kinds of power with the right pieces on it. If I was you, I would keep the 91 as is and save up for the new block with the new intake pieces, etc. Trick Flow does make a good intake and heads too. Why don't you just get a GT40 short block and then use the trick flow pieces on it. The best advice for building the engine you want is to call the guys at Ford Tech at 586-486-1356 and they can tell you what combination of parts will get the most bang for your buck starting with a short block and adding to it.
Past my bedtime now, check you later!
Past my bedtime now, check you later!
