autocross or roadrace 5.0's?
06-17-2006, 12:03 AM
#2
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,039
RE: autocross or roadrace 5.0's?
a few members over at www.mustanggt.org are really into autocrossing with their foxes.
checkout the gallery and see some pics of the all-out autox cars. the fenders are really flared out they look weird lol
checkout the gallery and see some pics of the all-out autox cars. the fenders are really flared out they look weird lol
06-17-2006, 10:36 AM
#6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 34
RE: autocross or roadrace 5.0's?
MM is a good source for suspension. Stay away from Steeda, Saleen or Roush stuff... it's geared towards street cars that want a bit better handeling. I've got Griggs under my car but I know guys using MM and it's nice stuff.
If you want handeling, start with the backend of the car. Convert it to coil overs and get a panhard bar. Get rid of that trash that Ford installed. The roll center is so high back there it's retarded. Once you get the back sorted out you will be amazed at how good the car will work. Everyone thinks the frontend is to blame and it really isn't, the rear binds up under load and over powers the frontend causing the typical Mustang shimmy, understeer, snap oversteer thru the corners.
If you opt for a front K member make sure it's a SLA or similar type frontend that ellimnates the struts and converts it to a coilover/upper & lower A arm.
Make sure you have good weld-in subframe connectors & a cage, otherwise the chassis will flex and you'll just waste your cash.
About 6-9 grand later, you'll smoke Vetts and Vipers in the corners. I've got trophys to prove it.
Lynch
If you want handeling, start with the backend of the car. Convert it to coil overs and get a panhard bar. Get rid of that trash that Ford installed. The roll center is so high back there it's retarded. Once you get the back sorted out you will be amazed at how good the car will work. Everyone thinks the frontend is to blame and it really isn't, the rear binds up under load and over powers the frontend causing the typical Mustang shimmy, understeer, snap oversteer thru the corners.
If you opt for a front K member make sure it's a SLA or similar type frontend that ellimnates the struts and converts it to a coilover/upper & lower A arm.
Make sure you have good weld-in subframe connectors & a cage, otherwise the chassis will flex and you'll just waste your cash.
About 6-9 grand later, you'll smoke Vetts and Vipers in the corners. I've got trophys to prove it.
Lynch
06-17-2006, 11:16 AM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Severn, Md
Posts: 2,298
RE: autocross or roadrace 5.0's?
With road racing, and handling, remember, just because its aftermarket, doesnt mean its better.
I did about 6 hours of research on the rear suspension alone, and you have to sit down with a fresh slate, and learn everything over again.
For example, in the rear suspension, most people put all poly bushings. Thats a no-no. You can buy aftermarket control arms, whichever ones of your choice. But you have to be sure to buy factory replacement rubber bushings for the ears on the rear, where they bolt up to. From the factory, Ford engineered the rear suspension with that rubber bushing in mind, because it can move many different directions. If you use poly, the rear end will bind, the car wont be able to roll and move properly, and youll have snap oversteer. If your tires hook when your suspension binds, your going straight when youre trying to turn.
Do a lot of homework.
I did about 6 hours of research on the rear suspension alone, and you have to sit down with a fresh slate, and learn everything over again.
For example, in the rear suspension, most people put all poly bushings. Thats a no-no. You can buy aftermarket control arms, whichever ones of your choice. But you have to be sure to buy factory replacement rubber bushings for the ears on the rear, where they bolt up to. From the factory, Ford engineered the rear suspension with that rubber bushing in mind, because it can move many different directions. If you use poly, the rear end will bind, the car wont be able to roll and move properly, and youll have snap oversteer. If your tires hook when your suspension binds, your going straight when youre trying to turn.
Do a lot of homework.
06-17-2006, 05:17 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mexico, MO
Posts: 1,007
RE: autocross or roadrace 5.0's?
thanks for the info guys, and supercharger_man_85, some people actually like to have multi-purpose cars that can do more than go fast in the straights
just kidding trevor, whatever floats your boat.
just kidding trevor, whatever floats your boat.
07-15-2013, 10:36 AM
#9
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
You can use poly bushings in the rear, but to prevent binds during suspension flex, you must grind/shave off just enough to clear the sides of the mounts. They should slip in freely when mounting. This little trick is an older one that prevents rear suspension bind with any bushings. Rubber bushings do not prevent this and add instability to the equation with all of the excessive flex. Poly bushings reduce "other" flex and add the stability the rubber ones lack. The only real reason to go with the rubber bushings is if you are racing in a class that requires original types of equipments be used. Even then, this little trick is employed to prevent rear bind.
07-15-2013, 10:39 AM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
You can use poly bushings in the rear, but to prevent binds during suspension flex, you must grind/shave off just enough to clear the sides of the mounts. They should slip in freely when mounting. This little trick is an older one that prevents rear suspension bind with any bushings. Rubber bushings do not prevent this and add instability to the equation with all of the excessive flex. Poly bushings reduce "other" flex and add the stability the rubber ones lack. The only real reason to go with the rubber bushings is if you are racing in a class that requires original types of equipments be used. Even then, this little trick is employed to prevent rear bind.
