PLEASE HELP NEED INFO!!!
06-25-2007, 12:54 PM
#2
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06-25-2007, 02:35 PM
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06-25-2007, 05:27 PM
#6
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RE: PLEASE HELP NEED INFO!!!
OD to T-5 conversion
Automatics are boring. Let's face it, stabbing the clutch and shifting the gears is the essence of performance driving. Automatic transmissions certainly have their benefits, and we enjoyed ours thoroughly, and were impressed with how it responded to minor modifications such as a shift kit and higher stall converter. However, as we had always planned from the moment we bought the '88 LX, the time has come for the AOD tobe replaced with a T5 manual.
We performed the swap for several reasons including the fun factor. We wanted a performance gain, not only from better gearing in the T5, but also due to the less parasitic loss, not to mention the weight loss. An AOD is roughly 40lbs heavier than the T5. Furthermore we hope the T5 will result in better fuel economy, due to the lower overdrive rpms as a result of the lower gear ratio and by eliminating the slippage of the non-lockup converter.
Performing a T5 swap in a late-model Mustang is very easy. In order to reduce assembly line costs, Ford setup the FOX platform to accept either the AOD or the T5 with minimal parts differences or chassis modifications. The starter, driveshaft, crossmember, transmission mount and speedo-cable are all interchangeable.
Other than acquiring the T5 itself, the pedal assembly, the clutch parts, and the console plate and boot, there is not much else that is needed, other than a spare weekend to perform the job. It is important to mention that T5 cars used a different EEC-IV processor than AOD cars. It is not necessary to change to a manual processor. In fact, it is recommended that you don't because the manual processor requires a wiring harness that is not found in the automatic cars. Without this harness the manual computer cannot complete the self-tests, meaning you can't "pull" diagnostic trouble codes. If you simply leave the automatic processor in place, the self-tests and codes will function properly.
The actual swap is fairly simple to perform, and will take anywhere from 10-16 hours, depending on your experience and how many friends show up to give you a hand. We actually installed the pedal assembly months before we installed the T5, just to get a head start. Believe it or not, the pedal assembly is probably the most difficult part of the entire swap! It took about three hours to complete, including rerouting the speedo cable, which on automatic cars is routed through the clutch cable hole. The rest of the swap consists of removing the AOD and associated parts, and then essentially performing a clutch job and installing the T5.
Finding all the parts is not all that tough either. We got lucky and found someone parting out a low-mileage 1992 Mustang in the local classified. We struck a deal on all the T5 parts, including the transmission for $500.
Perhaps the most sought-after parts are the console cover, rubber insulator, and leather boot. We were fortunate that the donor car had these intact and in great shape. When taking the pedal assembly, be sure to get all the switches mounted on it. Take every little piece of hardware you can, since many of the small parts are Ford pieces that are not sold anymore, or are very expensive.
Removing the AOD pedal assembly and installing the T5 pedal assembly is trial of your patience. Not only are you working in a dark and confined space, but the pedal bracket is wedged up in under the dash. We found the easiest way is to create as much working space as possible. Remove the drivers seat, unless you like being a contortionist. Secondly, take our advice and drop the steering column down. We know it sounds like a lot of work, but the ten minutes it takes to drop the column will save over an hour of wrestling with the pedal assembly.Finally, if you haven't done so yet, purchase a aftermarket clutch cable quadrant, the stock plastic one is junk. We highly recommend the Fortes unit as shown here. The billet aluminum construction will last forever, and the large firewall adjuster makes adjusting the cable tension a breeze.Fortes Quadrant with Firewall Adjuster
1. Here is the T5 pedal assembly we pulled from the donor car. You cannot install the clutch pedal on the automatic pedal assembly. 2. On the lefthand side of pedal assembly are the neutral saftey and clutch interlock switches. Make sure you get these when pulling pedals from a donor car. 3. On the right side of the pedal assembly is the cruise control switch, which disengages the cruise when the clutch is pressed. Also notice the stock plastic clutch cable quadrant.
4. Now is a good time to install the new quadrant on the pedal assembly. Remove the two hair-pin clips and slide off the stock plastic quadrant, adjuster and spring. 5. The supplied white bushing goes on first, then the quadrant. Secure it with the stock hairpin clip. The front of the quadrant should rest on the stop as shown. 6. On AOD Mustangs, the factory routes the speedo cable through the clutch cable hole. The highlighted area is where the speedo needs to be relocated to.
7. To re-route the speedo cable, the gauge cluster needs to be removed. Remove the dash cover and disconnect the switch plugs to access the half-dozen torx screws that secure the gauge. 8. Squeeze the white clip on the speedo cable and pull the cable off the gauge. Now the cable can be pulled through the firewall and rerouted through hole shown in pic.6. Reattach the cable and reassemble the dash 9. Remove the two nuts that hold the steering column bracket, and let the steering column hang down as low as possible. You'll want to remove the harnesses that plug into the column to avoid straining the wires. Remove the upper pedal bracket bolt shown in the highlighted region in the photo.
10. Four 9/16" nuts hold the pedal bracket to the firewall, you can access all but one with a ratchet. Be sure to disconnect the master cylinder push rod from the brake pedal, it's held in place with a hair-pin clip. 11. The top left pedal bracket nut cannot be reached from underneath. Take our word for it, otherwise you'll spend an hour swearing and cussing. The way to get to it is with a super long 3/8" extension, reaching through the dash as shown. 12. If you're lucky the pedal will come out without any of your blood on it. Otherwise, expect to wrestle with it for a while, eventually it will work its way out from the tangle of wires and brackets under the dash. Take a breather, because the new clutch pedal assembly goes in the same way
13. With the pedals in place, the hardest part of the swap is behind you!Before you climb out from under the dash, find the two plugs shown in the highlighted region in the photo. On AOD cars they are jumpered and taped up as part of the large bundle of wires near the drivers side vent. 14. Remove the jumpers and attach the plugs into the switch on the clutch pedal. Note, the two plugs look similar, but they are not, each one will fit a unique position on the switch as shown. Once they are plugged in, grab the white serrated plastic rod and pull the square adjuster (arrow) as far up as it will go, you'll feel it ratchet up. You can see this rod better in pic.2. 15. On AOD cars, behind the stereo and console you'll find a plug with a green jumper wire. This is the [URL=http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/aod-to-t-5-conve
Automatics are boring. Let's face it, stabbing the clutch and shifting the gears is the essence of performance driving. Automatic transmissions certainly have their benefits, and we enjoyed ours thoroughly, and were impressed with how it responded to minor modifications such as a shift kit and higher stall converter. However, as we had always planned from the moment we bought the '88 LX, the time has come for the AOD tobe replaced with a T5 manual.
We performed the swap for several reasons including the fun factor. We wanted a performance gain, not only from better gearing in the T5, but also due to the less parasitic loss, not to mention the weight loss. An AOD is roughly 40lbs heavier than the T5. Furthermore we hope the T5 will result in better fuel economy, due to the lower overdrive rpms as a result of the lower gear ratio and by eliminating the slippage of the non-lockup converter.
Performing a T5 swap in a late-model Mustang is very easy. In order to reduce assembly line costs, Ford setup the FOX platform to accept either the AOD or the T5 with minimal parts differences or chassis modifications. The starter, driveshaft, crossmember, transmission mount and speedo-cable are all interchangeable.
Other than acquiring the T5 itself, the pedal assembly, the clutch parts, and the console plate and boot, there is not much else that is needed, other than a spare weekend to perform the job. It is important to mention that T5 cars used a different EEC-IV processor than AOD cars. It is not necessary to change to a manual processor. In fact, it is recommended that you don't because the manual processor requires a wiring harness that is not found in the automatic cars. Without this harness the manual computer cannot complete the self-tests, meaning you can't "pull" diagnostic trouble codes. If you simply leave the automatic processor in place, the self-tests and codes will function properly.
The actual swap is fairly simple to perform, and will take anywhere from 10-16 hours, depending on your experience and how many friends show up to give you a hand. We actually installed the pedal assembly months before we installed the T5, just to get a head start. Believe it or not, the pedal assembly is probably the most difficult part of the entire swap! It took about three hours to complete, including rerouting the speedo cable, which on automatic cars is routed through the clutch cable hole. The rest of the swap consists of removing the AOD and associated parts, and then essentially performing a clutch job and installing the T5.
Finding all the parts is not all that tough either. We got lucky and found someone parting out a low-mileage 1992 Mustang in the local classified. We struck a deal on all the T5 parts, including the transmission for $500.
Perhaps the most sought-after parts are the console cover, rubber insulator, and leather boot. We were fortunate that the donor car had these intact and in great shape. When taking the pedal assembly, be sure to get all the switches mounted on it. Take every little piece of hardware you can, since many of the small parts are Ford pieces that are not sold anymore, or are very expensive.
Removing the AOD pedal assembly and installing the T5 pedal assembly is trial of your patience. Not only are you working in a dark and confined space, but the pedal bracket is wedged up in under the dash. We found the easiest way is to create as much working space as possible. Remove the drivers seat, unless you like being a contortionist. Secondly, take our advice and drop the steering column down. We know it sounds like a lot of work, but the ten minutes it takes to drop the column will save over an hour of wrestling with the pedal assembly.Finally, if you haven't done so yet, purchase a aftermarket clutch cable quadrant, the stock plastic one is junk. We highly recommend the Fortes unit as shown here. The billet aluminum construction will last forever, and the large firewall adjuster makes adjusting the cable tension a breeze.Fortes Quadrant with Firewall Adjuster
1. Here is the T5 pedal assembly we pulled from the donor car. You cannot install the clutch pedal on the automatic pedal assembly. 2. On the lefthand side of pedal assembly are the neutral saftey and clutch interlock switches. Make sure you get these when pulling pedals from a donor car. 3. On the right side of the pedal assembly is the cruise control switch, which disengages the cruise when the clutch is pressed. Also notice the stock plastic clutch cable quadrant.
4. Now is a good time to install the new quadrant on the pedal assembly. Remove the two hair-pin clips and slide off the stock plastic quadrant, adjuster and spring. 5. The supplied white bushing goes on first, then the quadrant. Secure it with the stock hairpin clip. The front of the quadrant should rest on the stop as shown. 6. On AOD Mustangs, the factory routes the speedo cable through the clutch cable hole. The highlighted area is where the speedo needs to be relocated to.
7. To re-route the speedo cable, the gauge cluster needs to be removed. Remove the dash cover and disconnect the switch plugs to access the half-dozen torx screws that secure the gauge. 8. Squeeze the white clip on the speedo cable and pull the cable off the gauge. Now the cable can be pulled through the firewall and rerouted through hole shown in pic.6. Reattach the cable and reassemble the dash 9. Remove the two nuts that hold the steering column bracket, and let the steering column hang down as low as possible. You'll want to remove the harnesses that plug into the column to avoid straining the wires. Remove the upper pedal bracket bolt shown in the highlighted region in the photo.
10. Four 9/16" nuts hold the pedal bracket to the firewall, you can access all but one with a ratchet. Be sure to disconnect the master cylinder push rod from the brake pedal, it's held in place with a hair-pin clip. 11. The top left pedal bracket nut cannot be reached from underneath. Take our word for it, otherwise you'll spend an hour swearing and cussing. The way to get to it is with a super long 3/8" extension, reaching through the dash as shown. 12. If you're lucky the pedal will come out without any of your blood on it. Otherwise, expect to wrestle with it for a while, eventually it will work its way out from the tangle of wires and brackets under the dash. Take a breather, because the new clutch pedal assembly goes in the same way
13. With the pedals in place, the hardest part of the swap is behind you!Before you climb out from under the dash, find the two plugs shown in the highlighted region in the photo. On AOD cars they are jumpered and taped up as part of the large bundle of wires near the drivers side vent. 14. Remove the jumpers and attach the plugs into the switch on the clutch pedal. Note, the two plugs look similar, but they are not, each one will fit a unique position on the switch as shown. Once they are plugged in, grab the white serrated plastic rod and pull the square adjuster (arrow) as far up as it will go, you'll feel it ratchet up. You can see this rod better in pic.2. 15. On AOD cars, behind the stereo and console you'll find a plug with a green jumper wire. This is the [URL=http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/aod-to-t-5-conve
06-25-2007, 05:28 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: KY
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