crazypony

ok some of you on here may know my on goin clutch issuse i have with my 5t swapped car pedal effort is so stiff that it stretchs the cable and i have to keep adjusting it.. for some reason a stock cable won;t work on my car. but my adjustable cable is adjusted as far as it can be adjusted and it doesn;t go into gear . I checked everything i though i knew on this car that would i think cause this problemlike clutch cable and the correct routing.. made sure it was adjusted right.. made sure the t/o bearing was good made sure the bracket on the clutch cable was mounted properly... i just installed a stock clutch in it and it still does the same thing
Now i need advice on what to check to see ifwhat ever you guys saywould cause this problem.. i think my next step towards solving this is startin over takin everything dealin with the drive train.. pedal assembly etc etc back out and do the swap again.. any help or suggestions?

Tims 88GT

your cable has to be binding. take some pics for us.

mjr46

here's an od ball problem I had may not be yours but an Idea..... about three years ago I put in a king cobra clutch and while the tranny was out I decided to order a summit steel input shaft bearing retainer I put it all in and back together and as I used the clutch it became harder and harder to get in gear almost had to rev between gears to sincronize it and ****** it in. Since I didn't drive the car mutch I left it that way for a few months then out of the blue I had to pull the motor it blew!!![:'(] and I pulled the tranny and noticed the brand new input bearing retainer steel sleeve was working it's way out and was jamming against the clutch disc!!! when I saw that it all made sense I replaced the retainer and to this day it's fine!! just an idea if you've replaced your retainer too..?? I doubt this is your problem but I too had tried all solutions to fix mine never thought that would of been my problem.

crazypony

a friend of mine said that also... he knows alot more than this than i do so ima try a few things tommrow with the cable. yes i remember seeing it kind of crimped up in a few places i have to put it back on for pics so maybe tommrow ill have it fixed

mattdel

what do you mean when you say "correct routing"

it only goes in one way.

the biggest loop you can possibly make is the correct way. no zig zags, no 90 degree bends.
1 giant loop.

crazypony

the loop was bigger and smaller thats how i mean.. its hard to explain.. i had it routed one time that it was too close to my headers.. then one time where it would be too close to the steering colum in by the headers i need pics to show u yes i know

rm78mustangii

Isn't the bearing retainer bolted directly to the tranny? How would it work it's way forward?

mjr46

because the steel one I bought had an aluminum base with a steel sleeve pressed into it. the steel sleeve was working it's way out of the aluminum base. Itwas a cheap steel one as opposed to the all aluminum stock one........see now the steel sleeve is where the throw out bearing rides so after each clutch pedal movement out a little further would come the steel sleeve until it was jamming against the clutch disc.

adumb

i wouldn't worry about your pedal assembly but i would (i know you don't wanna hear this) take the tranny back out and double check your work. it is kind of a odd ball thing to have happen and there really aren't that many variables to mess it up. it just sucks they are all behind the bellhousing. you could take the tranny out and check the pedal pressure and see if it is better or have a friend do it and you could check to make sure everything is working properly. since you just put the tranny in it shouldn't 'take you more then an hour tops to get it back out, the hard part of all the rusted and stuck bolts is already done.

adumb

i just noticed you checked the throwout bearing so you already had the tranny out once trying to fix this problem?