update from last night code 33
#12
RE: update from last night code 33
FIRST
Disconnect vaccum line at egr connect a vaccum gauge to open line
rerun koer test and when the egr portion of test comes on line DO YOU OBSERVE greater than 1.5 in-hg (5kpa) of vaccum???
Disconnect vaccum line at egr connect a vaccum gauge to open line
rerun koer test and when the egr portion of test comes on line DO YOU OBSERVE greater than 1.5 in-hg (5kpa) of vaccum???
#14
RE: update from last night code 33
I also noticed you've been talking about a idle problem since this code point towards a possible vaccum supply problem I'd follow the vaccum line to egr valve from evr selonoid(this is the selonoid that directs vaccum to egr valve when commanded to)and inspect for leaks and from the selonoid to the manifold vaccum supply and check condition of all vaccum supply hoses to egr valve.
#16
RE: update from last night code 33
Anyway pm me later with test result based on that it'll send you to another step and I';ll send you instructions based on what you tell me as to where you need to go from there!!
#17
RE: update from last night code 33
Code 33 is the code that will be logged in the system when you install the EGR simulator resistors pack.....it means the valve is not been registered as opening (EVP signal change). The only thing this code will cause is have the EEC-IV system delete/bypass the EGR function w/out causing any driveability problems. If you want to solve it though, need to check the vacuum lines to/from the EVR solenoid (the one behind the RH strut tower on the top).
#18
RE: update from last night code 33
I think I may have solved it! I think the EVR is bad. I have vac in on the red line, but no vac out on the green unless you plug the breather bypass with your finger.Then it sends the vac up to the EGR which seems to work( you can see the diaphram move when vac is there) Ok, should I replace it if it will not cause driveability problems? If I do, where can i get one? Dealer only item?
#19
RE: update from last night code 33
ORIGINAL: creekrat
I think I may have solved it! I think the EVR is bad. I have vac in on the red line, but no vac out on the green unless you plug the breather bypass with your finger.Then it sends the vac up to the EGR which seems to work( you can see the diaphram move when vac is there) Ok, should I replace it if it will not cause driveability problems? If I do, where can i get one? Dealer only item?
I think I may have solved it! I think the EVR is bad. I have vac in on the red line, but no vac out on the green unless you plug the breather bypass with your finger.Then it sends the vac up to the EGR which seems to work( you can see the diaphram move when vac is there) Ok, should I replace it if it will not cause driveability problems? If I do, where can i get one? Dealer only item?
1. Disconnect vacuum lines at the EVR and connect an extension line that you could use to apply vacuum to the EVR source nipple (BTW...are the lines connected to the correct port....check this diagram....)
2. Run a KOEO self-test and wait until all codes are output and leave IGN ON.
3. If you apply vacuum to the EVR, and check the port to the EGR valve, no vacuum should be present there.
4. Now....move throttle to WOT position and release it....you should hear the EVR solenoid click (ECM activates it).
5. Apply vacuum to source port, and you should feel vacuum at the port to the EGR valve.....if not the EVR is 10-7.
6. Activate throttle again, and the EVR should turn off....routing any vacuum to the breather port.
#20
RE: update from last night code 33
vac lines are correctly hooked up. I just ran the test you suggested and there was no clicking from the solenoid at all and no re-routing of vac at all to EGR. Also, noy after removing the EVR and attempting to clean it out earlier I am getting a code 84 on the KOEO test that I wasn't getting before. I guess this brings me back to the prior question... Where can I get one? I guess I need to have it for the EGR system to function properly.