danltr450

I started on my block prep this weekend. I purchased a 351w from someone and when I removed the cylinder head it had a little water in it. At least it was only one cylinder. Any ways after honeing the cylinder out there is still some roughness from pits. The pits were rust and are extremly light and more visual than anything else. has any one ever rebuilt a motor with this problem and not had any trouble out of it. I had planed on re-ringing it with new bearings, bolting on my heads, slapping in a cam and off I go. Now I am concerned that I will have a cylinder that is a little lower on compression or have oil blow by. I know what is the right thing to do, but a little short oncash beside the fact that already bought std bearings and rings. Has anyone ever run a motor like this and not had any problems from it?

creekrat

I wouldn't take the chance if I were you. Take it to a machine shop and let them make the final call! Better to spen a few dollars more now than to have it break and ruin everything and cost you even more.

VigCS

I'd get it bored .030 over if I were you.

danltr450

yea I know that what I should do.

Maxwelhse

I had a GM 3800 that popped its intake gaskets and filled the cylinders with water. #6 held water for about 2 weeks and rusted up nicely... I had the same type pitting you're talking about. I put it back together and didn't worry about. It ran fine, but #6 was about 30 psi down on compression and the motor starting using oil after that.

You really should have it bored.

my77stang

i've ran into that situation twice. once was a 400m that sat with water in the cylinders for months. we used scotch brite pads, then a wire wheel on a drill (soft wire wheel, and were carefull with it) then more scotch brite, and we slapped the heads on. this motor had pitting in probably half the cylinders, it ran great and used very little oil (maybe 1/2 quart every oil change).

the other motor was a 460 and it had it in a couple cylinders, we had nothing to get the rust out and in a pinch we actually used a asphault shingle to ruff it up and finished with a piece of grip tape off a skate board (yeah, we're badass like that). that truck started up on the first bump of the key after sitting apart for like a year, and didnt use a drop of oil.

that being said, it depends on how deep the pitting is. your never gonna notice it being a few pound weaker or if you use 1/4 or 1/2 a quart every oil change who cares? as the motor runs and the rings seat up your consumption will probably go down anyways.

danltr450

to the shop it goes. Thanks

mjr46

Well you know what the right thing to do for longevity is but about 3 years ago I did a 90 ford van engine 302 to be exact the #8 cylinder had burned a piston cause the pvc is tapped in off the rear intake runners and once carbon starts to build up it runs lean on the rear and burns the piston.......anyway the guy wanted it fixed cheap and didn't care about longevity so we picked all themetal out that was imbedded in the cylinder wall and used a 3 finger hone and honed the snot out of it then ran a berry hone throught it and it cleaned up okay and had great compression and the guy is amazed it's still running strong 3 years latter....saw him the other day sometimes you win sometimes you lose!!!

danltr450

I see, maybe I might be ok. The pits are very small and hard to feel and you have to rub lightly .

my77stang

go for it and report back with your results!!!!! you'd be surprized at what kinda half *** sh*t you can get away with

(why do you think all these older chevys are still running )