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the 4 banger t5 really is not much weaker...and as far as any t5 goes, no stock spec one is much to brag about at all. but the one issue i know with the 4 banger t5's is that first is only better geared if you have traction, cause my old friend's 5.0 swap coupe couldnt hook for ****
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by the time you've finished reading this sentence, you'll realize you wasted like 5 seconds of your life
I have a question. if you were to steal parts off an older ford pickupwith a 351 in it woudl ther be any gains possible to obtain from this?
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Tonight Jan 13 Clear N/A -26Â° ..We have no high temp
95 mustang GT (R.I.P)
94 mustang GT (on the way)
becarefull, before you go pulling off GT 40 parts to install on to your 5.0, remember that theres a diffrence in the gt40 heads, and the gt40 (P) heads..the gt 40 heads will bolt right up with out any moifacation i believe... but im sure that the gt40 P heads require gt40 p exaust headers AS STOCK HEADERS WILL NOT FIT... and i also believe you would need the spical gt40 p inake..sure about the eause, but not sure about the intake....why havent you guys told him about gt40 p heads catch ???..i though everyone knew that.... if i were you id slap on a set of gt40 heads and buy a crome cobra intake from ebay..or just pluck a stock one off a explorer... though the gt40 p heads are better ..youd have to order a set of after market gt 40 p conversion headers, witch are NOT leagle to have when its time to get your im test done... but anyways just stay away from the gt 40 p heads if you want cheap power.... another sugestion is to install the mas air from a sn95 with a 5.0..the sn95's have bigger injectors as well i think... and i believe that some lincolins (89-93 ish) have the same upgraded mas air and injectors... am i right guys?? mmmm oh and the sn 95 altanator makes more amps then the stock fox..its a popular swap!! but youll need to modify the bracket alittle to make it fit..and make sure to cut the old wiring harness out of the sn95 mustang or lincolin that it came out of as youll need it to splice into your wiring harness...i believe that the main crank pully off of some rangers have smaller crank pullies but youll have to take some mesuring tape with you to the junk yard and compare AAAAAAAAAAANNND dont forget about the diffrential, and RING AND PINION from rangers and explorers!!!! some have 4.10's (my favorate) and 3.73's and that my friend is the best suggestion youll find on the thred so far... if you dont have a limited slip diffrential on your mustang try try to find a ranger, explorer, mountaineer, or lincolin mark, with a limited slip set up...BUT if your doing this make SURE there in good condition AND what ever you do have a pro install them at a shop!! as the old bearings and crush sleevs will be no good..the shop shouldnt charge you more then 200-300 bucks... and dont forget that if your doing this swap to make sure to install some new clutch packs in your simited slip diffrential while your at it..some require a special rear end fricition modifier and using standard gearoil will destorie it...check the service manual and have fun with those junkyard go fast parts..its the american way brotha
i got my alternator off of a 88 lincoln lsc and i put it on my 85 mustang, you need that bracket for it also. also if you have a 83-86 you and get the brakes off of an 87-93 because they are bigger. i was wondering if it is possable to use the brakes of like a turbo coupe or an lsc on a mustang?
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I am currently running GT40P heads, upper and lower intake from a 1997 Explorer and the 19lb injectors from the same. It is more or less a direct bolt on situation with the only special part needed being the headers. To my understanding the stock headers will fit but the spark plugs will not be accesible so that is the reason for needing "P" specific headers. There are some posts on corral.net for regular headers that clear the plugs with the "P" heads. The lower Explorer intake does not have the provisions for the ACT sensor, you have 2 options here. Drill and tap #5 intake runner ( some of them have a place for this, others do not), or you can put the ACT in the intake tube right before the throttle body ( which is where mine is) or like the SN95 cars in the airbox itself. The upper has alot of vacuum tubes coming from the under side of it, I had all except 3 welded shut, little one for fuel regulator, and 2 bigger ones for PCV and brake Vacuum. I have used epoxy to fill them as well, and I have seen really rigged situations where hose and silicone was involved but I would not suggest it lol. I just switched the injectors, I had stock 19lbs and switched them to the new 1997 4 hole design ( I believe they are refered to as GEN III injectors). I would suggest doing this on any stang, as they are more efficient, atomize the fuel better, resist clogging, and give better driveability. I know this as I just did the swap this past weekend and my car is like a totally different vehicle now. As far as the Explorer throttle body, some mods need to be done with the linkage to get it working properly. There are 2 kinds of Explorer intakes to look for, one has EGR provisions the other does not, neither have smog ports in the heads and neither use thermactor plumbing. That is the reason they will not pass emmisions test on older stangs.
Other parts to look for,
24lb injectors on 460 EFI motors
Lincoln Mark VIII electric fans
Rear gears on truck as they usually are numerically higher
new style 4 port injectors, they are skinnier than the stock stang parts. As long as they have the same square plug for the injector harness they will work.
Oh and not to brag or anything but the local pick and pull sells complete engines for $150, that includes all accesories.
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