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Trac Lok Clutches?? help..

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Old 09-27-2007, 06:30 PM
  #11  
silver91gt
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Default RE: Trac Lok Clutches?? help..

ORIGINAL: mojopony

I'd still like to hear from anyone who has tried removing the friction material altogether and just running metal to metal in the trac-lok.
LOL
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:11 PM
  #12  
uedlose
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Default RE: Trac Lok Clutches?? help..

ORIGINAL: mojopony

I'd still like to hear from anyone who has tried removing the friction material altogether and just running metal to metal in the trac-lok.
So what do you want to know? I did it for years works great. I would grind off all the fiber on the clutchs remove one shim frombetween the clutchs. Since Ford runs the rear clutch2 shims then clutch and this would let me get 5 clutchs per side and would make the rear very tight. It would even chirp the tires in a tight turn for the first few miles. I would also run synthetic gear oil in the rear. This never wore out. then when the car started to run low 11s and high 10s it would just snap the ears off the clutchs every year like clock work some times 2 times a year. So in went the mini-spool that lasted only one year and it broke it up so now the full spool should be here Friday. I would also lay a magnet inside therear to catch any metal that would come from the metal rubbing this was also never a problem.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:19 PM
  #13  
mojopony
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Default RE: Trac Lok Clutches?? help..

ORIGINAL: uedlose

ORIGINAL: mojopony

I'd still like to hear from anyone who has tried removing the friction material altogether and just running metal to metal in the trac-lok.
So what do you want to know? I did it for years works great. I would grind off all the fiber on the clutchs remove one shim frombetween the clutchs. Since Ford runs the rear clutch2 shims then clutch and this would let me get 5 clutchs per side and would make the rear very tight. It would even chirp the tires in a tight turn for the first few miles. I would also run synthetic gear oil in the rear. This never wore out. then when the car started to run low 11s and high 10s it would just snap the ears off the clutchs every year like clock work some times 2 times a year. So in went the mini-spool that lasted only one year and it broke it up so now the full spool should be here Friday. I would also lay a magnet inside therear to catch any metal that would come from the metal rubbing this was also never a problem.
I read a trac-lok rebuild article about doing this with 5 clutches per side as you mentioned and they said it worked great. I did the +1 rebuild with 4 clutches per side, but now with some miles on it the trac-lok doesn't lock up as hard as it used to. I don't know what was so humorous about my post since apparently your trac-lok didn't behave like an open differential.
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Old 09-29-2007, 08:00 AM
  #14  
uedlose
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Default RE: Trac Lok Clutches?? help..

open ?! far from it a bit tight for some peoples taste yes.LOL. well you know some people just dont know and some justwon't / can't take a risk. this hobby cost lots of money and there is no room for error sometimes. thats why you see mustangs with the same set ups running very differnt times at the track sometimes
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:30 PM
  #15  
txjason1
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so tell me how grinding the friction material off works....my clutches in teh posi are worn out which is giving me axle play....can you replace the clutches without losing the gear backlash?
or do you have to have the gears set up again?
thanks.
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:55 AM
  #16  
uedlose
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yes, you can replace the clutches without gone through the set up again. this is back from the dead. when I ground off the friction material I would also remove one shim from between the clutches also then I would add a frictionless clutch or two then just reinstall the spider gears like normal it takes 2 people most of the time it will be that tight. It works very well .

Last edited by uedlose; 05-03-2009 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:03 AM
  #17  
FLcracker9
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My Ford Racing carbon fiber clutches came as a set, with the clutches & steels included. I measued the thickness right out of the box, and they were .653 & .655 respectively. My Son's truck however, we bought standard clutches, and they measured .640. For the truck, I swapped in some old steels (if you measure each of your steels, you'll find they are all different thicknesses) until I got the desired thickness on the pack (final was .651 & .652). The Badshoe video below will tell you everything you need to know about setting up your clutches loose or tight, and why there's no advantage to installing an extra friction plate. This method works great, and there's no need to purchase additional friction plates.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:26 AM
  #18  
txjason1
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Originally Posted by FLcracker9
My Ford Racing carbon fiber clutches came as a set, with the clutches & steels included. I measued the thickness right out of the box, and they were .653 & .655 respectively. My Son's truck however, we bought standard clutches, and they measured .640. For the truck, I swapped in some old steels (if you measure each of your steels, you'll find they are all different thicknesses) until I got the desired thickness on the pack (final was .651 & .652). The Badshoe video below will tell you everything you need to know about setting up your clutches loose or tight, and why there's no advantage to installing an extra friction plate. This method works great, and there's no need to purchase additional friction plates.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc
Thanks that info and vid are VERY helpful!
Gracias!
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:21 PM
  #19  
uedlose
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the extra clutches offer strength in other places they are not just for friction the ears set in the housing if they brake off then the clutch just spins in the housing with the side gear making it act as a open rear. so with no friction material to wear out and the extra 2 clutches per side I would run it would work out great. tired and tested no video just real world track results that work.
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