New Rockers Don't Fit...
12-24-2007, 06:44 PM
#1
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New Rockers Don't Fit...
Friend has scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, we pulled the stockers off and the new ones don't have enough length in the bolt to reach the threads sowe can start bolting it on. If wecompresseed the valve springwould we be able to get more roomor is there a way to push the push rod down we just ned like 4mm so we have enough room to startthe bolt in the threads. Anyonechange their stock rockers for rollers?
I wish i could help him more but 4.6's are a totally diff motor and i don't have to deal with rockers
I wish i could help him more but 4.6's are a totally diff motor and i don't have to deal with rockers
12-24-2007, 07:00 PM
#4
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
I thought it was direct bolt on to... What were thinking is that the rocker bolt which came with the kit is not long enough... It's just not making sence to me and i can't find **** for scorpion roller rockers. I can't get pics right now. Maybe later though.
12-24-2007, 07:07 PM
#6
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
Sorry bout the wait dog here ya goRS
Rocker Arms From Materials To Systems To Installation, We Show You All You Need To Know[/align] By Chris Hemer[/align] photographer: Chris Hemer
[/align]
[/align]When most of us think about performance parts, roller rockers are usually not the first parts to come to mind. However, a good set of roller rocker arms can not only reduce friction, but also they are stronger than the stock rockers. They can even make horsepower, particularly the increased-ratio (1.7) versions. With this in mind, we thought it was time to examine rocker arm basics. We contacted the folks at Crane Cams in Daytona Beach, Florida, and Comp Cams in Memphis, Tennessee--two of the leading aftermarket suppliers of cams and valvetrain components--to talk about rocker arm basics, from materials to the various types of rocker systems and their advantages.
We then visited Germanson Automotive and Performance in Oxnard, California, where owner John Germanson took us through some basic installations on a mocked-up 5.0. Why Roller Rockers? In a street/strip application, roller rocker arms are the only rockers that should be considered, because they were designed from the outset for high-performance use. Most roller rocker arms (except for some low-cost street designs) utilize a roller tip and a roller pivot point, commonly known as a fulcrum or trunion. Contrary to popular belief, the main benefit of a roller rocker is the roller fulcrum, not the tip, although both contribute to valvetrain performance and reduced friction.
Most production, stamped-steel rocker arms use a wide, flat tip that slides across the top of the valve tip as the valve opens, creating a slower, gentler valve actuation. On the other hand, a properly designed roller rocker opens the valve more quickly because the contact point is smaller and remains consistent throughout the arc of the rocker (provided geometry is correct). So all things being equal, a roller-tipped rocker doesn't significantly reduce valvetrain friction until you get into high spring pressures.
Where friction is reduced is at the fulcrum area of the rocker arm. While the rocker tip only has the valve tip to contend with, the fulcrum must bear the load of the pushrod at one end and valvespring pressure at the other. Besides the fact that reduced friction increases horsepower (Crane claims up to 25 hp can be gained), it is also believed that lower oil temperature will help the valvesprings live longer, as the oil that lubricates the rocker arms also bathes the valvesprings.
Rocker Arm Construction Roller rockers come in various materials, including aluminum, investment-cast steel, and stainless steel. By far the most popular material for aftermarket roller rockers is aluminum because it's easier for manufacturers to machine, it's lightweight, and it dissipates heat quickly. Though there are various alloys that aluminum rocker arms can be made from (you could write a book on metalurgy alone), suffice it to say they fall into three basic groups: cast aluminum, extruded aluminum, and billet aluminum. Cast-aluminum rockers are the least expensive because although they require expensive dies to manufacture, they become inexpensive once the dies are paid for.
Extruded aluminum rockers begin life as extruded aluminum stock, which is machined into a rocker, creating a stronger but more expensive rocker arm. Billet aluminum rockers are machined out of a solid chunk of aluminum and are regarded as the strongest aluminum rocker arms available--but they are also the most expensive by far. Cast rockers are fine for street, street/strip, and mild racing applications. For example, Crane maintains its vacuum-cast aluminum roller rockers are good for up to 500 pounds open pressure on a small-block. But beyond that, an extruded or billet aluminum rocker arm should be considered. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer for its recommendations before you purchase. For many ye
Rocker Arms From Materials To Systems To Installation, We Show You All You Need To Know[/align] By Chris Hemer[/align] photographer: Chris Hemer
[/align]
[/align]When most of us think about performance parts, roller rockers are usually not the first parts to come to mind. However, a good set of roller rocker arms can not only reduce friction, but also they are stronger than the stock rockers. They can even make horsepower, particularly the increased-ratio (1.7) versions. With this in mind, we thought it was time to examine rocker arm basics. We contacted the folks at Crane Cams in Daytona Beach, Florida, and Comp Cams in Memphis, Tennessee--two of the leading aftermarket suppliers of cams and valvetrain components--to talk about rocker arm basics, from materials to the various types of rocker systems and their advantages. We then visited Germanson Automotive and Performance in Oxnard, California, where owner John Germanson took us through some basic installations on a mocked-up 5.0. Why Roller Rockers? In a street/strip application, roller rocker arms are the only rockers that should be considered, because they were designed from the outset for high-performance use. Most roller rocker arms (except for some low-cost street designs) utilize a roller tip and a roller pivot point, commonly known as a fulcrum or trunion. Contrary to popular belief, the main benefit of a roller rocker is the roller fulcrum, not the tip, although both contribute to valvetrain performance and reduced friction.
Most production, stamped-steel rocker arms use a wide, flat tip that slides across the top of the valve tip as the valve opens, creating a slower, gentler valve actuation. On the other hand, a properly designed roller rocker opens the valve more quickly because the contact point is smaller and remains consistent throughout the arc of the rocker (provided geometry is correct). So all things being equal, a roller-tipped rocker doesn't significantly reduce valvetrain friction until you get into high spring pressures.
Where friction is reduced is at the fulcrum area of the rocker arm. While the rocker tip only has the valve tip to contend with, the fulcrum must bear the load of the pushrod at one end and valvespring pressure at the other. Besides the fact that reduced friction increases horsepower (Crane claims up to 25 hp can be gained), it is also believed that lower oil temperature will help the valvesprings live longer, as the oil that lubricates the rocker arms also bathes the valvesprings.
Rocker Arm Construction Roller rockers come in various materials, including aluminum, investment-cast steel, and stainless steel. By far the most popular material for aftermarket roller rockers is aluminum because it's easier for manufacturers to machine, it's lightweight, and it dissipates heat quickly. Though there are various alloys that aluminum rocker arms can be made from (you could write a book on metalurgy alone), suffice it to say they fall into three basic groups: cast aluminum, extruded aluminum, and billet aluminum. Cast-aluminum rockers are the least expensive because although they require expensive dies to manufacture, they become inexpensive once the dies are paid for.
Extruded aluminum rockers begin life as extruded aluminum stock, which is machined into a rocker, creating a stronger but more expensive rocker arm. Billet aluminum rockers are machined out of a solid chunk of aluminum and are regarded as the strongest aluminum rocker arms available--but they are also the most expensive by far. Cast rockers are fine for street, street/strip, and mild racing applications. For example, Crane maintains its vacuum-cast aluminum roller rockers are good for up to 500 pounds open pressure on a small-block. But beyond that, an extruded or billet aluminum rocker arm should be considered. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer for its recommendations before you purchase. For many ye
12-24-2007, 07:11 PM
#7
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
I wouldn't see any other way of putting it in... The pushrod is in right. It sits perfectly in the socket part of the fulcrum and the roller part goes on the valve spring...I don't see how we would be putting them in wrong... Do you remember how long the bolt stuck out past the bottom of the fulcrum because we only had like 1cm to work with.
12-24-2007, 07:17 PM
#8
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
ORIGINAL: StangEatsRice
I wouldn't see any other way of putting it in... The pushrod is in right. It sits perfectly in the socket part of the fulcrum and the roller part goes on the valve spring...I don't see how we would be putting them in wrong... Do you remember how long the bolt stuck out past the bottom of the fulcrum because we only had like 1cm to work with.
I wouldn't see any other way of putting it in... The pushrod is in right. It sits perfectly in the socket part of the fulcrum and the roller part goes on the valve spring...I don't see how we would be putting them in wrong... Do you remember how long the bolt stuck out past the bottom of the fulcrum because we only had like 1cm to work with.
youll see the pushrod move downward.
they have to adjusted in a sequence,
hold that though
12-24-2007, 07:24 PM
#9
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
get a 23mm socket . turn crankshaft clockwise
1.Pick a cylinder.
2.Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts to move up. Intake valve is now on base circle. (THE Exhaust VALVE is the one in line with header exit)
3.Loosen the intake valve lock nut if needed.
4.Twirl intake pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut until you feel the pushrod stop turning. A little practice is all it takes. You will know - it stops right away, unless you are turning it with pliers DONT. This is zero lash.
Tighten locknut 1/2 turn( WHITE OUT HELPS IN MONITORING THE BOLT/NUT TURNING).
5.Bump the motor until the Intake is almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle.
6.Loosen the exhaust lock nut.
7.Twirl exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) ,
8. After you feel the resistance like above, stop! Turn locknut 1/2 turn, then the allen nut to finish.
If you go 1 cylinder at a time, you won't screw up or get confused or need a checklist.
1.Pick a cylinder.
2.Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts to move up. Intake valve is now on base circle. (THE Exhaust VALVE is the one in line with header exit)
3.Loosen the intake valve lock nut if needed.
4.Twirl intake pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut until you feel the pushrod stop turning. A little practice is all it takes. You will know - it stops right away, unless you are turning it with pliers DONT. This is zero lash.
Tighten locknut 1/2 turn( WHITE OUT HELPS IN MONITORING THE BOLT/NUT TURNING).
5.Bump the motor until the Intake is almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle.
6.Loosen the exhaust lock nut.
7.Twirl exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) ,
8. After you feel the resistance like above, stop! Turn locknut 1/2 turn, then the allen nut to finish.
If you go 1 cylinder at a time, you won't screw up or get confused or need a checklist.
12-24-2007, 07:45 PM
#10
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RE: New Rockers Don't Fit...
Omg, from looking at the pictures i see what we were doing wrong, it was just a simple mounting mistake.Thanks for your help and finding the pictures for me.