wow
01-28-2008, 08:15 PM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 390
RE: wow
ORIGINAL: mjr46
Sorry but you got no F'ING clue what your talking about.....cause you can't bore a factory block to .120 over!!!! .060 is the max..cause after that they'll be nothing left of the side walls...only a dart or boss block can be bored to 4.125 overbore......as for the bearing on the balancer??[sm=WTFsgign.gif]....they don't have one to begin with
....if you block has been bore .030 then .030 more wasn't enough and now he wants to do it another .060...find another machinest cause you'll be wastin' the 1800.00 and for that price you could of bought a stroked 302[&:] and the tiny pins on top of the valves were missing??? hmmmmm were the muffler bearings bad too?? and did you have to add blinker fluid to make the engine rotate easier??...ya know a flux capaciter can fix the whole issue with this thread
ORIGINAL: 855.0sean
the block itself is from 1968.
and the costr was $1,312.11 for the machine wortk and i had to pay another guy 450 to pull my engine and replace my power steering pump plus the heater core and hes gonna put it back in once i get it.
here is what i was told.
the guy i bought it from had already bored it .30 over and put flattop pistons into it.
the guy i am haveing do the work bored it .30 more but it wasent enough. so hes doing it another .60. follow me?
themn hes puttin this kit into my engine.
(sorry its just there home page)
http://www.epwi.net/
but thats a picture of the kit hes using.
thats all the stuff im getting.
the block itself is from 1968.
and the costr was $1,312.11 for the machine wortk and i had to pay another guy 450 to pull my engine and replace my power steering pump plus the heater core and hes gonna put it back in once i get it.
here is what i was told.
the guy i bought it from had already bored it .30 over and put flattop pistons into it.
the guy i am haveing do the work bored it .30 more but it wasent enough. so hes doing it another .60. follow me?
themn hes puttin this kit into my engine.
(sorry its just there home page)
http://www.epwi.net/
but thats a picture of the kit hes using.
thats all the stuff im getting.
....if you block has been bore .030 then .030 more wasn't enough and now he wants to do it another .060...find another machinest cause you'll be wastin' the 1800.00 and for that price you could of bought a stroked 302[&:] and the tiny pins on top of the valves were missing??? hmmmmm were the muffler bearings bad too?? and did you have to add blinker fluid to make the engine rotate easier??...ya know a flux capaciter can fix the whole issue with this thread
LMFAO .120 over!?! I seriously bursted out in laughter when I saw that lmao Kid's a dipsh*t...
You're right. 60 over is the max. And hell, from what I hear, .60 over is risking it.
01-28-2008, 08:27 PM
#23
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 621
RE: wow
Wow...been in this hobby a long time...seen alot of things, but this is just not good. The overbore to the degree your 'guy' is talking about is rediculous...any good builder wouldn't touch that thing with a 10 foot pole. The cost of another block would likely be under 100-200 bills and pretty much eliminate the problems that removing that much material is going to cause..if not initially, very soon after. I think the 'pins' he's referring to are the keeper? I think...if not, I'm not sure at all. IMO and my opinion only, this whole story just wreaks of crap...either he's ripping you off, enjoys filling your head with half truths, you misunderstood him, or you are adding things. I'll tell you right now...you give me this guys # via PM so I can ask him about your statments and I guarantee he won't have the goodies to tell me what your saying he's doing is a good idea.
01-28-2008, 09:20 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 182
RE: wow
ok the pins i was talking about are little cap looking things they were used back in the day. this is what they looked like. i know these arnt the actual thing but they look similar. the guy showed me some that hehad.http://s225.photobucket.com/albums/d...ent=images.jpg and because they werent there, there was a space betweenthe exhaustvalve andthe camshaft.causing the exhaust valve to not open all the way! he said they were only used for like ten years and then they quit using them in ford engines. but anyways thats what i ment sorry i know i may sound like a jacka$$ but im learning and id appreciate it if you all could understand that.
sorry for anything that makes me sound like an ignorent dumbass [>:]
sorry for anything that makes me sound like an ignorent dumbass [>:]
01-28-2008, 09:31 PM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 621
RE: wow
Um...no I fail to see how your reply (which reply I'm not certain) relates to my post.I questioned the integrity of the shop machining the block...and if your info is correct then their integrity is really in question, . You have thrown out informantion that is disturbing..the entire story just sound like either HORRID decision making on behalf of your chosen engine builder, or just incorrect statements by you.
Understand I am not attempting to insult you...simply responding to the truely questionable information you've provided...really questionable decisions if true.Like I stated be earlier..I've done this mustang thing for a long time...seen it all from early on and you're just not going to convice me that removing 1/8th of an inch of cylinder material is a good idea what so ever. You seem to love the car and want to learn....ask other builders around your area what they think about the information you're being provided with.
Understand I am not attempting to insult you...simply responding to the truely questionable information you've provided...really questionable decisions if true.Like I stated be earlier..I've done this mustang thing for a long time...seen it all from early on and you're just not going to convice me that removing 1/8th of an inch of cylinder material is a good idea what so ever. You seem to love the car and want to learn....ask other builders around your area what they think about the information you're being provided with.
01-28-2008, 09:43 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 182
RE: wow
ok i understand ill get my info straight the next time i go to the shop,
and by no means did i try and feed you guy bullsh#$, this is what i understood. i was probably wrong and misunderstrood him. and the statements were wrong sorry about that. ill correct everything by thursday
im going to the shop on wednesday.
and by no means did i try and feed you guy bullsh#$, this is what i understood. i was probably wrong and misunderstrood him. and the statements were wrong sorry about that. ill correct everything by thursday
im going to the shop on wednesday.
01-28-2008, 09:54 PM
#30
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 621
RE: wow
I hope it works out for you...but don't hesitate for one second to double check his statements with a known builder or mechanic. If you have any issues with his info...DO NOT ALLOW HIM TO CONTINUE. I understand you don't have a strong background in the hobby YET but I would like to help you out a bit by saying....many....many...many people who work on cars/build engines, etc LIE. they lie because they don't know, they lie because they know you don't know, they lie simply because they need/want the money and WILL cut corners.
Things like magnafuxing block (fancy word for checking for cracks) was not mentioned...any block that's seen that much rebuild activity should be done WITHOUT doubt..did he mention that? Ask him why he wants to thin out the walls that much instead of just finding another block? Just a few questions you should ask.
If you proceed with this guy...ask for receipts for everything, demand to see the assembly process along the way and make sure what goes in that block is exactly what you paid for...because truth be know, quite often what you pay for is not what you get back.
Real issue here is...your paying alot of money to this guy...engines take time to install, alot of work really, alot of time too. If things go bad...do you have a warranty? If not don't let him touch it unless he agrees.
but I would like to help you out a bit by saying....many....many...many people who work on cars/build engines, etc LIE. they lie because they don't know, they lie because they know you don't know, they lie simply because they need/want the money and WILL cut corners. Things like magnafuxing block (fancy word for checking for cracks) was not mentioned...any block that's seen that much rebuild activity should be done WITHOUT doubt..did he mention that? Ask him why he wants to thin out the walls that much instead of just finding another block? Just a few questions you should ask.
If you proceed with this guy...ask for receipts for everything, demand to see the assembly process along the way and make sure what goes in that block is exactly what you paid for...because truth be know, quite often what you pay for is not what you get back.
Real issue here is...your paying alot of money to this guy...engines take time to install, alot of work really, alot of time too. If things go bad...do you have a warranty? If not don't let him touch it unless he agrees.