huntsman

hey guys, i just posted the transmission bolt thread but i have a more general question. This is my first clutch install ever, and im doing it on my own, with power tools and airtools and no lift, on my back. How hard is this gonna be, the entire car is apart so it doesnt matter if it takes a while but i just need to know hat all i have to go through, if it isnt too much trouble could someone make me a list so i can just checkoff stuff when im done?
I really appreciate any help that can be offered!
Thanks,
Matt
btw its a 89 gt with a t5 and a stage 2 clutch going in

mjr46

go buy a manual at your local parts store and some jack stands

huntsman

i have it up and stuff and i know the basic stuuf ive just never put a clutch on a mustang, its always been all wheel drive cars

huntsman

btw mjr46 you 4 eyed coupe is SEXY!!!

94Yellow50

puttin a clutch in a mustang is not to difficult...put the disc on the alignment pin..hold it upthere in the pilot bearing..place the pressure plate on and line it up with the dowl pins..then bolt down to spec...pull alignment pin and there ya go..new clutch...all this is after either resurfacing or buyin a new flywheel tho

djh1121

I posted this pic in your other thread...

mjr46

Thank you....but it ain't lookin' to good for the past three months it has been marooned on a lift with the motor out.. soon my 347 should be here

huntsman

wow! mine is in a million pieces, im stripping the interior and replacing everything as well as sanding down the paint and having it redone, all this wile doing motor work in free time lol

5spd GT

Clutch Kit Part Numbers for 86-95 5.0L

Looking for 10.4-10.5 Inch Clutch Disc – 10 spline – 1 1/16th input shaft

Ford Racing Heavy Duty Clutch (30%) - FMS-M-7560-A302N
Ford Racing King Cobra (30% - Lighter pedal than HD) - FMS-M-7560-C302N

Centerforce Stage I Pressure Plate (30%) - CF-360048
Centerforce Stage II Pressure Plate (60% more holding power) - CFT-360048
Centerforce Stage I Pressure Plate for 93-95 Cobra - CF-360057
Centerforce Stage II Pressure Plate for 93-95 Cobra - CFT-360057
Centerforce Clutch Disc for Stage I/II Pressure Plate - CTF-381021
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch for 86-93 (90% more holding power) - CTF-DF021048
Centerforce Dual Friction for 93-95 Cobra (Fits 86-95 but has more clamping force) - CTF-DF021057
Centerforce DFX series for 86-95 (Lightweight Centerforce Clutch Disc) - CTF-LM021057

Spec Stage I Clutch Kit – SF481 (30% more holding power)
Spec Stage II Clutch Kit – SF482 (60% more holding power)
Spec Stage III Clutch Kit – SF483 (100% more holding power)

Centerforce has the lightest pedal in the aftermarket.


Throwout Bearings and Bearing Retainers

Ford Racing Throwout Bearing - FMS-M-7548-A
Centerforce Throwout Bearing - CTF-N1714
Ford Racing Steel Bearing Retainer for 1983-1993- FMS-M-7050-A
Ford Racing Steel Bearing Retainer for 1994/1995- FMS-M-7050-B
D&D Performance Steel Bearing Retainer for 1985-1993 – AC3
D&D Performance Steel Bearing Retainer for 1994/1995 – AC34


94/95 Bearing Retainers are 17mm longer.

Clutch Cables and Quadrants

OEM Style Ford Racing Clutch Cable/Clutch Fork for 79-93 - FMS-M-7553-A302
Adjustable Ford Clutch Cable and Quadrant - FMS-M-7553-B302

Miscellaneous Bolts/Clutch Alignment Tools/Seals

Ford Pressure Plate Bolts - FMS-M-6397-A302
Ford Pressure Plate Bolts and Flywheel Dowel Pin Set - 397-M-6397-A302
ARP Flywheel Bolts - ARP-100-2801
ARP Flywheel Bolts - ARP-200-2802 (slightly stronger strength)
ARP Starter Bolt Kit - ARP-450-3501
ARP Thread Sealer - ARP-100-9904
Mr. Gasket Clutch Alignment Tool - MRG-6942
Centerforce Clutch Alignment Tool - CTF-52010
Transmission fluid – Dexron/Mercron III ATF fluid for the T5
Ford Racing 79-95 Aluminum Driveshaft - FMS-M4602G
Rubber Rear Main Seal - FELPRO BS40644 or Napa JV1635
Teflon Rear Main Seal - FPP-2941*

*A Teflon seal over a stock rubber seal provides a higher temperature rating (500*F), wide fluid compatibility, good mechanical sealing properties, lower friction, & reduced shaft wear compared to stock rubber. They are very small differences though.

"Speedi-Sleeve" for crank by Chicago Rawhide P/N 99362.

The Speedi-Sleeve is if your crank has a little groove where you rear main seal is, it is a bushing type seal that sits over your crank and gives it a smooth surface. Your local parts stores may have the crank sleeves as well for cheaper.

Suggested Parts and Checklist for Clutch Install

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing*
Rear Main Seal*
New or Resurfaced Flywheel
Steel Throwout Bearing Retainer*
3 quarts of Mercon ATF fluid for the T5 (Takes 2.7 Quarts)*
Clutch Alignment Tool
Loc-Tite (Driveshaft Bolts)
Bearing Grease
RTV Silicone*
Gasket Scraper*
Degreaser*
Torque Wrench
Ratchet Wrench with combo of swivels and extensions
Shifter Bolts – 1/2 (13mm)
Manifold to H-pipe Bolts – 5/8"
H-pipe to Catback Bolts – 5/8"
02 Sensors – 7/8"
Driveshaft Bolts – 12 point 12mm Wrench
Starter Bolts – 3/8"
Speed Sensor Bolt – 10mm
Transmission/Bellhousing Bolts – 5/8"
Pressure Plate – 7/16 or 1/2"
Flywheel – 3/4"

*If needed

You can reuse all bolts if they are in good shape during a clutch swap and keeping a nice array of sockets and deep well sockets is a good idea.

Torque Specifications

Flywheel Bolts – 75-85 ft. lbs
Pressure Plate – 24 ft. lbs
Steel Bearing Retainer Bolts - 24 ft. lbs
Bellhousing Bolts– 45-65 ft. lbs
Transmission Bolts – 45-65 ft. lbs
Starter Bolts – 6-11 ft. lbs
Driveshaft Bolts – 70-95 ft. lbs
Shifter Bolt into Transmission Housing - 6-11 ft. lbs

Transmission Speedometer Gear Chart

Steel/Iron and Aluminum Flywheel

Ford Racing Iron Flywheel Stock Replacement – 21 lbs - 397-M-6375-B302
Centerforce Aluminum Flywheel – 11.9 lbs - CTF-900320
Centerforce Steel Flywheel – 27.6 lbs - CTF-700320
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel – 13.5 lbs - # 186501

Clutch Swap Disassembly, Install, and Reassembly

Disclaimer – Do at your own risk and research.

First jack up the car safely and securely on all four corners and the more room underneath the better so you can remove and install items much easier. Proper jack and jack stand placement is key for safety. A friend or two is probably the best way to go about the install. You will find yourself needing more hands than you have pretty quickly.

Go ahead and disconnect the negative side of the battery. Go ahead and remove the shifter (or at least the handle) so you can drop the transmission without the shifter holding it in due to rubbing. Four bolts hold it to the transmission and two bolts hold the shift lever on the shifter base. Pull up on the shifter using the handle if you choose to remove it completely. It will give you better leverage but be careful when it finally pops loose because you might go flying back or scratch interior pieces with the shifter. I put towels around the console to prevent this. Next I would go under the car and start unbolting your mid-pipe, which is held on by a total of 8 bolts (2 for each point of connection). They can be a pain to remove if they haven’t been removed in a while they can seize to the studs/bolts. Use some wd40 or Liquid Wrench to help with this process. A combination of extensions and a swivel would be a good start to getting to the manifold/h-pipe connections. Make sure before you completely drop the pipe that the 02 sensors are disconnected. You can use a flathead screwdriver to pop off the harness connection. Pull the mid-pipe from underneath the car. Now would be a good time to clean it off from all the road grime. Next I go to remove the driveshaft which is held in by 4 bolts in where you will need a 12 point 12 mm socket or wrench to fit over the bolts perfectly. The driveshaft bolts are commonly very stubborn to get off. If you can get a break-over bar on the bolts then you should be able to break them loose. I use the appropriate wrench and put a hollow bar over it and break them loose that way. It helps on the leverage. When you go to remove the bolts you will need to rotate the driveshaft to get an angle on the bolts. When you find the right angle put the car in gear (take your shifter and temporarily install it on the transmission and stick it in gear) and put on the e-brake to prevent the back tires from turning so you can break the bolts loose. Once you have removed all 4 bolts you are now ready to remove the driveshaft. When you pull the driveshaft out from its trans housing do not be surprised if transmission fluid comes out (normal). You can buy the driveshaft β€œplugs” that will be placed where the driveshaft was inputted or you can use a rubber band and Ziploc baggy and rig it up to catch any of the fluid so you don’t loose to much.

Now that the driveshaft is removed you can go ahead and undo any transmission connections that are on the transmission. You need to remove the neutral safety switch that pulls off and the speedometer gear which is held on by one 10mm bolt. Pull them out of the way so they don’t snag on anything. Remove any other connections that you may notice like the clutch cable which is held onto the clutch fork and also

mjr46

I did all that last year while my motor was out too...hmmmmm motor is out again this year[:@].........crap happens!! new motor ftw again!!!![&:]