Shelty

been having some trouble with the stang lately... she has gotten really cranky, mostly at idle. usually when she is idling she is fine but the other 50% of the time she'll search for an idle and occasionally stall out, with the CEL coming on... I'm thinking the IAC may be going on me....

mostly I come across this problem when the lights are on at night. which also has me thinking the car has a charging problem.... which is possible with the whimpy 75 amp alt and the UD pullies that the previous owner put on the car... so hello 3g swap.


anyone know how much a 3g swap alt costs and how much an IAC costs? on a college budget/ saving for an SLP to replace my sidepipes so I dont go deaf

302f150

yeah.....why do people think underdrive pulleys are the cause of all their problems? i have them, and battery relocation. with headlights on, 2 electric fans, and radio i charge fine. IAC is normally bad when the car stalls at a light after driving for a while. it's completely possible your alternator isnt charging, but think about it, has the car ALWAYS acted this way? the alternator may be going out, but if the CEL is on, check the codes

Shelty

I had the codes pulled a while ago, and what came back was the TPS code, the EGR being blocked off and something about the fuel pump secondary circuit. the car began acting like this about 2 weeks ago, only it happened once in a blue moon, so I just thought I had gotten some bad gas or something... I'll have to swing by advance auto on friday after I get paid....

302f150

egr can make the car not run good, EGR open at idle=stall.

WhiteWindsor

The iac you can take apart and clean yourself, it works alot of the time. As far as your alt., are you running anything extreme that would pull alot of amps? If not the 75 should be fine as long as it's charging around 13.5-14.

Joel5.0

You don't need to go to Advance Auto to get it "scanned"...... save that money and run the DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test ....save the money in case the IAC does require to be replaced (which I doubt). LUK

ponyponer

pretty sure the alternator would not trigger the engine light. it would trigger the battery/amp light. the iac could trigger the engine light definitely. run a voltage check for the charging system though.

Shelty

I'll try cleaning it and see if that makes her run better, as for the alt, the car doesnt have any crazy sound equipment nor an electric fan, so I could possibly have a faulty amp (it does look like a replacement part) but I have been thinking of doing a 3g swap anyway... I know I prolly dont need it, but I'd rather do it now instead of worrying about charging issues later down the road....