Toomstone

I was also thinking the same thing. But the fact that I am not getting any voltage reading at all to the connectors in the door really has me baffled. Since the diagram you just gave me shows that the Black w/ white should always be hot. Time to start following wires. This should make for an interesting day.

PRO50SC

Yup, tracing wires is a PITA. You could also run a seperate source to the switch to see if it does work. That way you know the rest of the system works and you know exactly what direction you need to go in. But you're def on the right track.

xfasteddiex

IT THINK I WOULD TAKE IT BACK TO PAINT SHOP & have them fix it or get a lawyer & have a free paint job

mjr46

how are you testing for voltage?? using a test light..I would doubt the alarm has a seperate power source as the alarm is most likely tapped on the ground side for control operation......so your positive you have no power on the bk/w wire?? cause it doesn't make sense the locks work with the remote it has to be a switch issue with master switch

PRO50SC

G/L proving they caused the problem

PRO50SC

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Unless it's powered through the brain of the alarm.

mjr46

Do you honestly think all shops are that gullable???......do you know how often I see and hear from a customer trying to pull a fast one hoping you didn't notice another prob on their car when it was in for service!! got one the other day.......changed the oil on the car and afterwards the lady came back and said now here seat won't move when she tries to slide it back or forward..and I didn't even move the seat!! stupid woman had a bunch of kiddie toys under the seat and one was wedged so that it knocked off the retracting wire!! my fault?? I think not....you need to be smacked for saying that above^^^^^^^^

Toomstone

I am using a multimeter to measure the voltage at the connection. I am positive that there is no voltage there. I even double checked to ensure I wasn't crazier than I thought. I wish I would have been wrong but I am not. When connected to the blk/wt the multimeter is showing .00 on both sides of the drivers door and just to make myself grin I checked the pass door and it was the same (note to self: why check the pass side if the mst switch on the drivers side wasn't connected?). So at this point I have checked the fuse box about 10 times to remind my self that there isn't a fuse there for the locks. Checked the voltage at the connection twice on each door (pass door just for the fun of it). Thought of ripping the doors off to check the wiring in the accorian boot, then reminded myself that the key fob will lock them and I know the connection for that is under the dash so the wiring from there to the switch is good. Then I decided(was forced)to goto Lowes to pay a un-godly amount for stepping stones. I need a twin to run errands for me. Once again thanks for all of the help/ideas. If you have any more let me know, I lurk here daily after I get home from the grind.

PRO50SC

Did you run a seperate 12v feed to the blk/wht feed wire on the switch? Then see if everything works.

Oh and you have checked the dvom across the battery to insure it's working right?

cleanfitty

I got this from google images so ignore the writing.