FivePointOhh

ok, ill run a test on this and see what happens. thank you so much once again for your help. ill keep ya posted on my results.

FivePointOhh

what temp are these things calibrated to? the instruction dont specify...do you haev any idea?

brentloftis

Not sure where did you get it?

The wire on the starter solenoid is in a good place to test for now, it will be hot/ live all the time, if you move it to the other post it will only have power when the starter is bumped....

after getting the kinks out for aKEY ON power source....a little further up is the wiper motor that is powered only when the key is on and maybe a location to tie into but then again your fuse box is only a little further and if I am seeing this for what it is, that wire would not power the fan but rather the switching portion that turns the fan on and off so resistance would not be a big hindrance.

FivePointOhh

what are you referring to on this statement?

brentloftis

IfI am reading the wire layout correctly, the wire currently on the startersolenoid is used to activate the relay built in to the transformer and does not directly power the fan. The wire you have connected to the batt right now seems to be the fans power source.

So the keyOn wire that is currently on the starter solenoid could be later routed to the fuse panel inside the fire wall and tied inthere to be a true Key On hot wire. Since it is not supplying the direct power to the fanresistance should not be a factor.

FivePointOhh

well if i tie it into a hot wire at the on position lets say...the radio fuse panel 25 amp or something, wouldnt that surge and pop the fuse once it does kick on?? or is it just to tell the transformer, "ok the car is on do your job" and when it does kick on the power draws from teh battery and not the fuse panel hot wire?

brentloftis

The relay is such a low voltage it should not pop the fuse although it looks like you have a amp wired up so I would choose a different fuse to hook into. The current for the fan is being pulled from the Batt, look at a stereo amp for example, it pulls its power from the battery but requires a remote wire from the radio to know when to turn on and off, should be the same with the fan setup you have.

FivePointOhh

ok so last night i didnt have alot of time but with the current set up all i did was bridge the two connections on the therm probe and with the car in the "off" position it kicks on. so do i need to switch which terminal im using on the starter solonoid or do i just need to wire it through the fuse panel?

brentloftis

Well that is good, it points you in the right direction. I would not worry about changing the wiring just yet, power power wires are hooked up to be hot at all times which is good for now to correct the issue with the temp switch. I would focus on testing or replacing the temp switch first, get the kinks worked out then re wire to the fuse panel.

I am still of the mind that the location of the switch maybe the culprit as to it not turning on when hot but could very well be a bad unit.

FivePointOhh

i think what ill due if it is a bad temp sensor unit is go purchase an adjustable one so i can change the senstivity of it so it can turn on accordingly. now that ihave the probe pulled in it ill apply a heat source to it later and see what happens.