F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
#11
RE: F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
ORIGINAL: blackfox6886
well i was tightening my lugs when one broke off[:@], and i didnt even overtighten.
now i gotta find a way to get the rest of the lugnut off.
any suggestions would be highly appreciated
thanx in advance
HERE ARE SOME PICS OF THE SITUATION
well i was tightening my lugs when one broke off[:@], and i didnt even overtighten.
now i gotta find a way to get the rest of the lugnut off.
any suggestions would be highly appreciated
thanx in advance
HERE ARE SOME PICS OF THE SITUATION
#15
RE: F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
Try a large screwdriver and a hammer. Wedge it in where the tip of the driver can bite some of the remaining lug and see if tapping in the reverse direction will loosen the lug up. Spray some WD-40 in so it help loosen up the friction.
Worth a try before cutting into anything permanent.
Worth a try before cutting into anything permanent.
#17
RE: F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
ahh boy... You're pretty screwed...
This is the best way I can think of doing it without screwing something up huge...
First, get a chunk of black iron pipe the correct OD of the wheel hole and of about the thinnest wall possible. Stick that in the hole to protect it the wheel from all the following steps.
Very carefully.... Find direct center on the stud and center punch it. You must be as close to dead center as possible when you do this.
Next, move up to a center drill (you want something like the "Solid Carbide Combined Drills", they are very short, hopefully you can get one in there). I highly recommend using one since they really help keep things on center, way more than just a center punch divot and a drill bit on its own. Print that page out and hit your local fabrication suppliers (Mill supply, maybe Grainger, etc) in your area and see if you can get one.
Then start slowly stepping your drill bits up until you remove almost all of the stud's diameter, but do not go through all of the diameter and try not to go through all of the depth; just deep enough to get past the lug remains (to avoid damaging the stuff behind it, like the disc or the hub if you are drilling crooked). If if you do go past the stud diameter, you will screw up the tapered seat that the lug tightens up against.
Next, take to the remains of the lug nut and stud with a cold chisel and hammer and try to split/shatter it off there. You will probably leave small grooves on the lug seat when you do that, but you should be able to sand them smooth without any big deal.
The ONLY other 2 things I can think of are still pretty bad.. 1.) Remove the entire assembly from the car and take it to a machine shop and hope they can chuck it up in a mill somehow and get it off there without screwing up the lug seat, 2.) Install the other lug nuts finger tight and drive it in a circle until that one breaks off and hopefully doesn't destory anything in the process (I really don't recommend that).
Good luck... That's a pretty horrible spot you're in. I don't mean to rub it in, but that's why I always anti-seize my lugs and aluminum wheels.
This is the best way I can think of doing it without screwing something up huge...
First, get a chunk of black iron pipe the correct OD of the wheel hole and of about the thinnest wall possible. Stick that in the hole to protect it the wheel from all the following steps.
Very carefully.... Find direct center on the stud and center punch it. You must be as close to dead center as possible when you do this.
Next, move up to a center drill (you want something like the "Solid Carbide Combined Drills", they are very short, hopefully you can get one in there). I highly recommend using one since they really help keep things on center, way more than just a center punch divot and a drill bit on its own. Print that page out and hit your local fabrication suppliers (Mill supply, maybe Grainger, etc) in your area and see if you can get one.
Then start slowly stepping your drill bits up until you remove almost all of the stud's diameter, but do not go through all of the diameter and try not to go through all of the depth; just deep enough to get past the lug remains (to avoid damaging the stuff behind it, like the disc or the hub if you are drilling crooked). If if you do go past the stud diameter, you will screw up the tapered seat that the lug tightens up against.
Next, take to the remains of the lug nut and stud with a cold chisel and hammer and try to split/shatter it off there. You will probably leave small grooves on the lug seat when you do that, but you should be able to sand them smooth without any big deal.
The ONLY other 2 things I can think of are still pretty bad.. 1.) Remove the entire assembly from the car and take it to a machine shop and hope they can chuck it up in a mill somehow and get it off there without screwing up the lug seat, 2.) Install the other lug nuts finger tight and drive it in a circle until that one breaks off and hopefully doesn't destory anything in the process (I really don't recommend that).
Good luck... That's a pretty horrible spot you're in. I don't mean to rub it in, but that's why I always anti-seize my lugs and aluminum wheels.
#19
RE: F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
Those are by far the worst lug nut you can use. Cheap *** aluminum! That's why it broke. In the future, just use a regular set of lugs and a set of McGaurd or the like, locks.
#20
RE: F*****' S*** !!! NOW WHAT ????
ORIGINAL: PRO50SC
Those are by far the worst lug nut you can use. Cheap *** aluminum! That's why it broke. In the future, just use a regular set of lugs and a set of McGaurd or the like, locks.
Those are by far the worst lug nut you can use. Cheap *** aluminum! That's why it broke. In the future, just use a regular set of lugs and a set of McGaurd or the like, locks.