1BIGMOFO

Has anyone else had any experiences they can share? This is a serious deal to me and I want to spend my money wisley. My Girlfriend wants a ring bad and buying this engine will put me in the DOG HOUSE for a LONG LONG time. I want to make sure its right!!!

Thanks in advance.

1BIGMOFO

With all of the 5.0 tallent in the forum no one else has any experiences they can share? I find this very hard to believe.....

Please, I am asking for your help.....

Thank you,

ruger311

Strong---

What are your goals with the car? are you wanting to be a daily driver? are you wanting to race it on weekends, what kinda HP are you really looking for? anytime in the future are you looking to spray it? any thoughts of forced induction? if so you will need to modify your setup

with the 10.3:1 comp you will most likely have to run at least 91 octane in it, you can spray it at that CR though, FI forget about it

if ever thinking about FI i would drop your CR to around 8.5-9:1 so you can boost it, plus saves on gas mileage/money

for the money Probe parts are pretty good, you can usually find a Eagle or Scat rotating assembly for around $1000 on the net or through some of the site sponsors or other dealers on here just have to use the search

as for the heads i think i would go a lil bigger on the intake at least 185s if not 200s

is there anything wrong with your current engine?

is there any reason you wanna pull it and swap it out besides having more displacement?

i think i your engine is still in pretty good shape i would do a HCI swap on it then buy a Novi 1000 or used s-trim and boost it, you would come out ahead, still have great gas mileage and over 400RWHP

jtmustang

yeah like ruger said is therte anything wrong with the current motor ,if it is still in good shape,oil consumption,compression i would just do a h/c/i andf then pick up a good used novi 1000 or s trim and make 450 550 to the wheels

i have the same heads,cam and almost same cr on my 306 and if i were u and want to do it right i would step up the head size,cam and really decide if u are gonna ever put some spray or boost to it and go from there,the nos will like the higher compression,and the boost will love the bigger heads and lowr compression ratio

ruger311

if all you are wanting is 350RWHP then be really easy to get there with 302, hell all you need right now is heads and cam since you already have intake, id just go with the s/c route be a lot easier

1fast86

If you only want a weekend warrior (360hp)and not a 1,000 hp car, use a stock block and 30lb injectors (rated N/A 430@90% , P/A 330@90%) and put yourmoney somewhereelse.Later on if you want to increase hp then you can look at other rotating combinations and sell the 347.

If you are looking for more hp I've got a 14psiProCharger that I took off my wifes '95.

ruger311

im gonna have to go with the 302 RPMII get some nice aluminum heads and nice came, put on the novi and go out there and run some 11s

1BIGMOFO

Right now the car blows a serious cloud of smoke. I am pretty sure its the valve seals. The bottom end has just over 100K on it. I have to do at least the heads and cam. The bottom end is only an additional $1600 from THR. I was figuring it would be best just to do it all at once due to the bottom end having over 100K (I dont know if it needs rings).

I dont need or want a 9 seconed 700hp car. I want to car to hold its own and be around 400HP at the wheels. I olny drive it on beautiful days (a few dozen times a year). I dont need an S/C or a bottle to be happy.

Im not on a super strict budget but 4k sounded good to me (thats where I need to be).

ruger311

you arent understanding what we are saying about the s/c, you can keep your current 302 and get good gas mileage and run cheaper gas than you can with a 10.3:1 CR, the higher the CR the more octane you will have to run, still yet with the s/c you will have to run prob 89 at least if not 91 but you will retain better gas mileage and have a nice car that would be faster than the 347

still have the driveability of a 280-300HP car but when you stomp it you can have a 400+ RWHP car, i guess if you were going to have to rebuild the 302 you ahve now then might as well increase displacement, if its blowing a nice cloud of smoke sounds like oil, sounds like time for a rebuild

its your decision whatever makes you happy, there are quite a few people out here in the mustang world that have built stock block 347s and have over 400RWHP but their CR is through the roof and have to run amix of gas to get it to run right, my friends 306 strim car runs 10:50s with an s-trim in his hatch not to bad fora cheap build,

dont forget you will need a 255lph pump at least, prob 36# injs, new MAF, ignition box, coil, etc prolly a tune too so that will att prob another 1000-1500$ depending on what you pick and who does your tune

here is my build

1989 Ford Mustang GT Convertible

Engine
347 Stroker Dart Iron Eagle 4 bolt mains
Scat Forged 4340 Crank
Scat Forged 4340 H-Beams
JE Pistons 8.5:1 Compression
Comp Cams XE282HR camshaft

[/align]Comp Pro Magnum Hyd Roller Lifters
Comp Valves/Guide Plates/Springs/Retainers/Lock/Pushrods
Speed Pro Plasma Moly Rings
ARP bolts
Professional Products Harmonic Balancer
Moroso 7qt Oil pan
Clevite Bearings
Melling HV Oil Pump
Fidanza Flywheel
EPW 1.6F Roller Rockers
Racing Head Service 200cc 64cc Heads
Cobra Valve Covers
BBK Underdrive Pulleys
New water pump
New power steering pump
Cometic Head Gaskets

[/align]

[/align]Power Adder

[/align]HP Performance Stage 3 T-76mm Turbo System 11.75#s

Cooling
Northern 2 core Aluminum Radiator
Flex-a-lite Black Magic Extreme Fan

Intake
Edelbrock Performer 5.0 RPM II
Accufab 75mm Throttle Body Blank EGR
PMAS 3.5" Pro Tube
Siemens Deka 60# injectors
Stock Fuel rails w/ BBK FPR
Autometer FP guage


[/align]Fuel

[/align]Aeromotive A-1000

[/align]Aeromotive 10micron and 100micron Filters

[/align]Aeromotive 1000 regulator

[/align]Aeromotive fuel rails

Tuning
Dyno Tuned
SCT burnt chip

Ignition
MSD Digital 6 Plus
MSD HVC II coil
Stock Distrbutor
Accel Cap and Rotor
New Ignition Module
Taylor Plug Wires
Autolite 24 sparkplugs
93 Cobra G3 Alternator Conversion
93 Cobra High Torque Mini Starter
Optima Red Top Battery

Exhaust

[/align]3.5" downpipe to full 4" straight pipe dumped outside before passenger tire
New O2 Sensors

Transmission/Driveline
Tremec TKO600
Steeda Tri Ax Handle
Mcleod SFI Bellhousing
SPEC stage3+
FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft
Driveshaft Safety Loop
Stock 8.8" Housing
3.55 Gears
Eaton Pro Posi Locker
Moser 31 Spline Axles 5 Lug
Moser C-Clip Eliminators
21 tooth speedo gear
BBK adjustable clutch cable and quadrant

Suspension
Maximum Motorsports Road and Track Box
MM Strut Tower Brace
MM Full Length Subrame Connectors
MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod
MM Heavy-duty Rear Lower Control Arms
H&R Race Springs
Bilstein front struts
Bilstein rear shocks
MM Caster/Camber Plate
MM Urethane Pinion Snubber
Rear spring isolators
Solid Steering Shaft
MM Aluminum Rack Bushings, center drilled
Front Swaybar bushings
Front Swaybar end link bushing kit
Front control arm bushings, urethane
SN95 Front Spindles
New Hubs
New Ball Joints
MM 6pt Bolt/Weld In Roll Cage w/ Swing out door bars
UPR Tubular K-Member
UPR Tublar A-Arms
UPR Coil Over Kit
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
Eibach Coil over springs 250# rate

Exterior
Cervinis Heat Extractor Hood (coming soon)
Saleen Wing
Shorty Antenna

Wheels and Braking
2003 Cobra 17x9s Chrome
Nitto 555DR 275/40/17 Drag Radials on back
Nitto 555 Extreme 275/40/17 on front
2003 10th Anniversary Cobra Calipers Red on front
13" Proslot slotted rotors on front
New Stock drums and pads on back
93 Cobra Master Cylinder
MM stainless steel brake lines

[/align]Weld Prostars 15x10 w/ 6.5" BS

[/align]Mickey Thompson ET Drags 26x15x10
Weld Prostars 15x3.5" with Moroso DS-2s on front

[/align]
Interior
Florida 5.0 Custom 6 gauge cluster w/ autometer gauges
Autometer Pro Comp Vac/Boost gauge
Autometer Pro Comp Pyrometer
All Black interior minus the rear seat
Corbeau LG1 Microsuede seats
ACC Black Carpet
New Black Door Panels w/ SVT logo
MOMO Jet Steering Wheel
MOMO F1 Shifter


at the dyno
final numbers for the day when we saw 11.75#s of boost were 599.6RWHP and 610.8RWTQ *********PUMP GAS 91 OCTANE*******, if you do the math 11.75/14.7 +1 * 350=629RWHP we could have made the 629 by leaning it out the other 1/2pt but we kept it simple and very safe, here are the dyno sheets, not sure what the hell was up with the MPH, the dynapac dynos are a lil goofy when recording those numbers, oh well, should run some nice numbers on the track

shouldnt have any trouble pushing past the 800RWHP mark, we will find out later this year

link to build here on MF

https://mustangforums.com/m_3915797/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

im_stuck_in_iraq

I WANT! Hey i have a shorty antennae yay we are the same right? LOL