91lx50udlose

i need help with my car i rebuilt the motor and it now has h/c/i etc.... and i still used the stock injectors to break in the new motor and i now have about 500 miles on the car and at wot once it gets to about 5000 rpms it starts popping so ive always heard that it meant the motor was getting lean and i adjusted fuel pressure and i still cant get it out of it so i picked up some used 30lb injectors and i have a c&l maf so i swapped the sampler tube and put the injectors in tonight and the car wont even idle it surges real bad then almost dies then surges then cuts off fuel pressure is at about 36-38psi but the car barely runs anyone ever heard or seen this???????

shaun8850

i had the same problem with my 88. h/c/i with #30 and a cal MAF same setup. bump pressure to 42, good starting point. What size fuel pump? Where did you get injectors and MAF? Was it calibrated for #30 injectors? Clean the meter carefully with MAF cleaner. If not then unplug the MAF. The car should run in a safe mode. SES light will come on telling u the sensor isnt responding. It should go off when u plug it back in. But if the car runs better I would be willing to bet its the MAF not calibrated right. Really you should have a chip made for you setup they would make sure the meter is calibrated to the injectors. I hope this helps

91lx50udlose

it has a stock fuel pump for now i have a 190lph already at home but i have not put it in yet and the c&l mass air meter i changed the tube for 30# inj
I bought the maf new, but the injectors i got used
the injectors are suppose to be ford racing svt focus injectors
ill play with the fuel pressure and see if it will run and unplug the maf to see thanks

shaun8850

Ok get that pump in the tank for sure. When you say you changed the tube for the 30#'s, what made it bigger, or does that have the sensor also? Usually you can use the same flow tube if it is large enough, but have to change out the meter with the little sensor spring attached. As far as the injectors you are using, I am not sure if they are compatible..You were told they were? Right? Some injectors use a different ohms or the voltage is different, but you are sure the focus is the same as a mustang? Let me know.

91lx50udlose

the c&L maf has a calibration tube inside the maf that they claim all you have to do is change the tube for which ever size injectors you are using it comes with the tube for 19# so i bought one for the 30# and changed it when i put the injectors in
also the only difference between the two tubes is the one for 30# is bigger
i don't know for sure if the focus and the mustang are the same as far as voltage
I boughta trick flow street upper/lower bbk 70mm tb and the 30#inj from the same guy and he says they came off his 5.0 because he switched to a carb.

shaun8850

I have the same upper and lower intake as you, and tw heads(love them). I went with #42 injectors, 255lph in tank and a MAF from a Ford Lightning, 90mm. I also have a supercharger pushin 8psi. To get my car running right I had to but a SCT chip made just for my setup and installed it in the computer. $250.00. See your stock computer dosnet know your adding more fuel and air. Did you notice any difference after turning up fuel pressure? How about when you unlugged the MAF? BTW whats your timing at? Before I added the supercharger I still had the H/C/I, my car is an 88 so I converted it to mass air and bought the cobra conversion.. #24 with matching computer,and MAF with no problems. Try calling speed shop and tell them what the issue is, they might tell you to program it also. Other then that check all you vaccum lines and make sure everything is set correctly (timing, fuel pressure, TPS voltage, and the IAC is cleaned and the EGR isnt stuck)

uedlose

you can try to turn the mass air some it helps it is called clocking it try it at 12 -3-9 like on the clock. customers car I turned to the3 clock and it would idle but driveability just sucked you may have to play with it a bit but it should work.I really don't care for the C&L stuff never had much luck with them on customers cars they just didn't have great street manners. I have always run the Pro-m stuff or the PMAS .

dudeboy

Well,
Assuming nothing else went wrong during the injector/MAF swap & that nothing was wrong before the swap...
The possibility that your parts are mismatched should be ruled out... the seller may not have been honest, or maybe he just didn't know.

http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/clsampletubes.htm
The above link will have the info you need to verify the diameter and intended use of your current C&L sample tube
You will need a pair of calipers to measure the inlet and outlet of the sample tube.



A few other questions you'll need to answer though...
What part numbers are on the injectors? Try to Google the numbers, to see what comes up...
What is the catch code of the ecu? (examples: A9L, X3Z, A3M1)
What is the part number on the MAF sensor? (examples: F1ZF-***, or F2VF-***)

It is important to know all of this info, as the MAF, ecu, and Injector setup is easy to mess up.

gt1991

I performed a H/I swap last month, and had the same problem. I installed 30lb injectors with my swap, and even though I changed the calibration tube in the C&L, the car would not idle.The only way I could keep it running was to rev it to over 3000rpm.It was running way to rich:the exhaust would make your eyes water, and when I revved it up, I could here the unburnt fuel popping as it igniited in the exhaust. I pulled a couple of plugs, and they were soaked in fuel.

I swapped out the 30lbers for the stock 19lbers, and changed the C&L tube for the 19lb tube, and everything ran perfectly.

I spoke with several people and posted my problem on the web, and everyone said get rid of the C&L and get a PRO-M. I contacted PRO-M directly and spoke with Chris Richards. He looked at my setup and recommended a properly calibrated 75mm meter. I then shopped around on the internet and found that Late Model Restoration Supply had them the cheapest, and ordered through them.

I received the MAS, plugged it in, and the car fired up on the first try and settled into a normal idle.

The C&L worked fine for me when my car was basically stock with a Vortech a-trim, but once I changed the H/I and the injectors, it didn't seem as though it could keep up. I would imagine the C&L would work fine with a tune, however, I live out in the country, a good two hour drive from a tuner, and because the car was completely undriveable with the C&L I would have had to get the car towed to a shop for tuning.