OnyxCobra

my thing says 3 stages for torquing.

tw3ak

Thanks again ALMOST STOCK.

Yeah I was going to do it in 3

Well I did not finish. Cracked a head bolt with barely any pressure. Must have been defective. I'm glad it happend when it did, this just teaches me to use new head bolts. Maybe its the 1 that came loose and caused the leak in the first place? Who knows.

Anyway,could someone reccommendsomegood but not expensive head bolts?

mjr46

I use only arp stuff.. a little pricey but they are worth it!! just go to you local parts store and order a set for your application...= quickest and easiest way and not to expensive

tw3ak

All I hear is ARP ARP ARP. Must be good stuff. I was looking at the ARP 154-3701 $45.00 isn't too bad. Whats the difference between those and the ARP 454-3601? Also would you suggest putting teflon tape on them? Thanks againfor the help fellas.

stang8689

I just bought the ARP's so I don't have to worry

tw3ak

Well lucky you!

Which ones did you get?!

Joel5.0

3601's are SS bolts.

mojopony

When I installed my AFR heads I used an installation kit from FRPP that contained torque-to-yield bolts, graphite gaskets and some other sundries. I chased all the threads in the block with a tap and torqued (in sequence) in three steps. I've covered about 50,000 miles since without any head gasket issues. I wouldn't try re-using the torque-to-yield bolts though because once they stretch they shouldn't be used anymore. The stretching is intended to have a clamping effect.

imnotmy77stang

dont use teflon tape, use teflon paste. your local autoparts store sells it as bolt sealer for about 3x the price that it should cost. you can pick up teflon pipe dope from your local hardware store for much much less and its the same thing.

tw3ak

Whats better about the stainless steel?


I will use paste instead of the tape.. thanx for themoney saving tipimnotmy77stang