Fox351

Don't mean to jack the thread but what is the most common form of filling the holes on the sides of the engine bay and do you hide the vacuum tree in the fender or in the cowl?

ALMOST STOCK

Thank you very much for the complement!

As for moving the vacuum lines on the passenger side to under the fender the only vacuum lines I moved was the one for the HVAC, which I did have to extend.

All the other lines vacuum lines that went to the vacuum distribution block are now in the inside of the driver’s side fender, and I did have to extend a few of those vacuum lines also.

My best guess is that you’ll need to spend 4-6 hrs (and possibly less)hiding wires and vacuum lines on both the passenger and driver’s side, along with your hood release, which I wouldn’t call a ton of time to clean up an engine bay.

ALMOST STOCK

Hopefully it's understood that I'm also not trying to jack 50Trippinthread either, I'm just trying to help if I can ?

With that said:
I’ve read many ways of filling all the holes in the engine bay over the past 8 yrs from ... JB weld, or use tape with filler, POR 15 Epoxy is another method, but the best way seems to be weld… grid… fill… prime, and then paint.

My thought 8 yrs ago was if you drill a hole in the cowl and if it rains or when you wash your car you stand a good possibility of having a leak inside your car, where if you were to put the vacuum tree in the fender it’s protected by the splash shield and no worries about a leak in the inside of your car.
But that’s just me.

50Trippin

No worries about "jacking" the thread. I'm interested in the bullet hole filling too. Here's some updated pis of the progress. I decided to mach-up everything that needed to be moved. The starter solenoid is in the stock location till I figure out how and where I'm going to route the new starter cable which does not reach to the fender well.

I'll take care of the rust issue this weekend.
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50Trippin

Well I've finished getting it back together. I decided to hold off on the passenger side wiring and vacuum lines until later this year but for now it stills looks nicer and made it easier to install the ignition system.

There is one new problem though. The part in the picture below was not hooked up to the starter solenoid and my car has run fine for years and charged fine. Now that I have hooked this up the car is not charging and the battery light stays on constantly. Any thoughts?

These are the final pics of the wiring.

projectresto83

Interesting place for the ignition box. I hope that one is water proof.

50Trippin

Yeah it is waterproof and the instuctions actually suggest mounting it somewhere in front or near the radiator so it is well ventilated.

ALMOST STOCK

Thelittle silver box; supplies power and overload protection for the power door locks, power windows, and lumbar seats.

I would check some of those locationsfor apossible short or loose ground.

50Trippin

Well that would explain why it worked fine with it disconnected. I have manual locks, windows, etc. I will disconnect it for now and track down where it is shorting out later. I don't really feel like fishing under the dash any time soon.

50Trippin

The little silver thing was not the problem. Disconnected and nothing changed. I guess the additional load of the new ignition system made it clear there was an alternator problem. I took it in and had it tested and it's only putting out 12 volts max. They didn't tell me how many amps but I know obviously not enough. Guess it's time for a 3G upgrade.