bdptcob

Yeah, everyone just says "connect the lines back up" and if the Chilton or Haynes manual for the Explorer is anything like the one for the Mustang, I doubt it. I've been nothing but disappointed with both manuals for the Mustang. Misinformation or flat out incorrect info or missing info.

ttocs

I had hoped for better luck here. Seems slow lately.

aode08

its very simple, they are all vacumm ports, put one on the pcv, one on the brake booster, one for the skinny vac line, cap the rest off, .


It dont matter, which ones you use lol, they are all in the same spot and pull the same vac.

cap the rest off

bdptcob

Okay, all put back together but it dies immediately. You can hold down on the accelerator and it stay running but once you let off, dies immediately. I'm assuming it's vacuum related so it's more trial an error.

bdptcob

Once I get it going, I'll be sure to take pictures and document it for future reference.

redpony88

make SURE if you put on a new t/b or anything you set the idle screw again, if it cant get air it doesnt run .
on efi all you control with the throttle cable is air flow so make sure it has air, if there was a vac leak it would idle high. also did you connect a vac line for the fuel pressure regulator, the map sensor (if it's 88 or older otherwise forget about the map), the pcv, the vac tree? just listen to see if there's hissing, hissing means a vac leak, but like i said if there was just a leak it'd idle high or maybe just surge

bdptcob

Ok, got the car running but I had to bump the idle on the new throttle body as far as it would go and it idles just right. I can't imagine this is correct though. Plus, I hear a whistling sound so I still have a vacuum leak somewhere, especially since my power brakes are pretty much non-existant. The line from booster to the vacuum tree was never unplugged. Is there another way leak could cause my brakes to have no pressure?

redpony88

spray some brake cleaner around and see if you can drop the idle, and if you cant, try wiggling the lines, if you still cant change the idle, pull the upper again and check all the cap offs you've got on the intake

also you said you had to bump the screw all the way up, so do you have the iac connected?

bdptcob

I assume the iac is the plastic electrical piece on top of the tb? Yeah, I've got that on. Also, it's a new tb and egr. The intake doesn't have an intake to egr coolant capability so I've capped off the left side of the egr.

redpony88

no, it's on the side of the t/b it's a valve called the idle air control, it bypasses the butterfly in the t/b. the part you were referring to on the top is know as the tps, throttle position sensor and you also have to check the voltage on that, make sure it's about .9 volts i believe, been a long time since i've checked one.