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Old 09-01-2008, 07:39 AM
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65coupe88hatch
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I pretty much had it with this idle situation, I cleaned the IAC, New TPS and properly adjusted, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the neutral saftey switch, new plugs, new wires, distributor cap and rotor, new pcv valve, i may of forgotten something can someone else name off nething that could be possibly wrong?....im desperate.
My car usually will fire up no problem then idle with go to about 1300rpms then go down to either 200 300 rpms and usually shut off. fire it up again and it will surge from around 1000 to 400 rpms
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:07 AM
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bdptcob
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Did you adjust the throttle body screw? I had to screw mine all the way in and then adjust the tps.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:36 AM
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Joel5.0
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Base Idle Reset Procedure + make sure you don't have any other failure codes causing problems, run a set of DIY KOEO/KOER self tests and LUK.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:00 AM
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mattdel
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cleaning the IAC doesn't always work. My car is a prime example of that. I have to run my car with the IAC unplugged, otherwise it revs to 3.5k during initial startup. My idle surges from 800 to 1100 with it unplugged, but its better than blowing out my valve seals and rings.
Do the idle reset Joel posted, and if it's still screwy, get a new IAC. They're cheap.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:43 PM
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65coupe88hatch
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Originally Posted by bdptcob
Did you adjust the throttle body screw? I had to screw mine all the way in and then adjust the tps.

yes, i have adjusted the idle screw but im going to try the idle reset tomorrow after i get out of class, and see what happens there.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:54 PM
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mjr46
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there are two main connectors everyone refers to as the salt and pepper connectors by the throttle body, cleaning these and installing dialectic grease often will cure idle surge problems and push the pins back together in the connector, just an idea that has worked when other stuff hasn't
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:00 PM
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aode08
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Yep do the salt and pepper shakers.

Remember another few things, A BAD IAC CANNOT BE CLEANED. Typically the electric partion of it fails and youll need a NEW ONE.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:16 PM
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65coupe88hatch
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well ive already cleaned the salt and pepper connectors I knew I forgot to name something. But isnt there anyway to test the IAC before just going out and buying a new one, they cost about 60 bucks at all the local parts stores.....thats alot of money to throw out on a guess.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:26 PM
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FivePointOhh
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i bet if you run codes you'll find your issue. mine was the EGR valve giving me troubles.
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:05 PM
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Joel5.0
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Originally Posted by 65coupe88hatch
well ive already cleaned the salt and pepper connectors I knew I forgot to name something. But isnt there anyway to test the IAC before just going out and buying a new one, they cost about 60 bucks at all the local parts stores.....thats alot of money to throw out on a guess.
Yep...... DIY KOEO/KOER self tests ..... doing the self tests + verifying the IAC is functional by doing the base idle reset is free.....
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