Eight433

Should have taken pictures as i went, but i guess i wasent really thinking about it. I just wanted to add some info to the forum.

Ok, I had a massive coolant leak. found it pooling on top of the timing cover (like every 5.0 seems to have) only it got worse FAST! so i blew it out, and it swelled right back up, obviously comming from the bottom up, not the top down like an intake gasket or something. So if you have these symptoms, and possibly coolant in the oil, this is likely your cause.

Now for a couple of tips. Buy a tube of Krazy Glue while your at the parts store. Get the timing cover gasket set, should come with a new seal for the front of the crank. You can use the glue to hold the gasket to the cover while you put the cover on. This goes for the paper gasket for the back of the cover as well as the cork gaskets and even the rubber gasket for the oil pan. I also used it to hold the thermostat in the housing while you bolt it on. If you've ever replaced a thermostat on a 5.0, then you've probably done it twice if you know what i mean, haha.

Also, now is not the time to be a cheap ***. your in there, everything is out of the way, replace the things that may need it soon. I replaced the entire timing set with one from advanced auto parts. Zoom brand i believe. adjustable timing retard/advance and everything for like 35 bucks. I also replaced the upper and lower coolant hoses, along with both of the heater core lines off of the water pump (which i also replaced!)

all and all, i had around 200 bucks into it, with the parts list as follows along with appx. prices.
*Timing set (35)
*timing cover gasket kit (10)
*thermostat (10)
*thermostat gasket
*upper radiator hose (12)
*lower radiator hose (12)
*both heater hoses (10 Each)
*Water pump (35)
*2 gallons anti freeze (10 each)
*2 gallons oil (10 each)
*oil filter (4)
*2 cans brake cleaner (3 each)
*tube of black RTV (5)
*tube of krazy glue


i'm sure i've missed something, and its not exactly a "how to" but it should be a fairly good list of info for someone that's never done it.
All in all, it took me a couple hours to tear it down, but i gave everything a good gas bath and degreased it, painting and detailing certain things before i put it back together too. Then it took me the better part of the next day to put it back together, again, cleaning and painting things as i went. I also took many beer breaks (and equally as many pee breaks lol) Also had the TV on watching nascar in the barn, so that was an added distraction. If you don't have to order parts and do not care about making everything pretty along the way, you can do it with basic hand tools in a full day easy. I am a professional mechanic, but heavy truck/trailers. This was my first time really doing a timing chain on a 5.0, but i did have an array of air tools to speed things up.

Good luck, and you can do it!

PRO50SC

Krazy glue huh? I usually use some type of gasket adhesive. You know, something that is made for automotive applications.

Eight433

yeah its a pretty good trick

Gasket adhesive doesn't always hold good enough when you're pushing and pulling on it untill it drys, in which case it doesn't seal so great after it dries.

U S Marine

Did all the above + remove a broken stud!!!! Sucked!!! Broke an easy out!!! Sucked even more!!! In all seriousness, I didn't need any super glue, probably a good tip though. I also changed my fan clutch & radiator. I hate cooling issues. One thing I noticed: I had set my timing about two weeks before my water pump started leaking at 12 BTDC. After I changed my timing chain and gears, I checked my timing, and it was at 9 BTDC. So basically, the car would run 3 degrees retarded because of the chain slack.

Eight433

i never actually checked the timing once i was done, but maybe its a good thing i set the timing sprockets at 2 degrees advanced. It does seem like the chain had a little more slack then most i've seen. even the new one had quite a bit of slack IMO.

mjr46

if you'd use the right type of sealer that issue wouldn't occur, I've done so many sbf timing covers and never had that issue, Use permatex's the right stuff and trust me the gasket won't move, and coolant often pools right there cause alot of people overlook the t-stat housing leaking from underneath, = first place I check with a mirroe when coolant puddles there, but I have seen it leak other places there too

Eight433

nope wasent thermostat housing. the pooling was on the drivers side, opposite of the thermostat. I know that "the right stuff" is some good stuff. I just like the glue because its easier to clean off if you ever have to do it again. I hate it at work when someone uses a **** ton of silicone on both sides of the gasket and you gotta spend half the day cleaning it back off. especially since usually by the time you tighten down whatever your working on, it squeezes out 99 percent of the sealer anyways. I was taught old school i guess.

mjr46

I like the rightstuff cause it'll fill in the pitted areas , and low spots that could cause potential leaks , something glue won't do, but if it works for you go with it

Eight433

the gasket itself should seal most the low spots and small pits. it was surprisingly clean. for a 20 year old car, i was blown away at how clean all the water passages were, how easily all the bolts came out, etc. My 88 towncar was a BITCH to change the water pump on. and you dont use the glue like a sealer or in place of a sealer. I still used a silicone sealer around the bottom edges of the cover and permatex gasket sealer around the water jackets. the glue just keeps the gasket from slipping.


I really like this forum. Nice adult conversation and tip trading. HUGE upgrade from s-10 forum where everyone just starts e-fights with everyone else

mjr46

not always the case..I've had a few that didn't work out that way, recently a 68 cougar, so sometimes you win sometimes ya' don't