Night Terror

I have made a crap load of posts about this, and i have done ALOT to fix the problem.

i have a 88lx SD car.

car ran great when i first got it, BUT after a week or so it started running wierd

Hesitation at part throttle, and WOT, and when it would hesitate there would be a popping noise.

Recently somthing new started ( i been dealing with the hesitation for almost 8 months now) 1 night i went to start the car and it would turn on, rpms would jump then the car would die... i tried starting it like 5 more times with the same result... i tried 1 extra time and BOOM!!! ****er back fired and smoke shot out the tail pipes...

next day i go to start it, and it starts perfectly... same day but at night, i start it to go out let it idle ad it jsut dies, go to start it and same thing, rpms jump up like they are supposed to then it sputters and dies... so i said let me leave it for now, cuz the back fire last time woke up some nieghbors...

i go back to it next day, starts up fine!, drive it to go get my paycheck and it just flat out stalls at a stop light on a busy road... great i push it off into a lot, and keep trying and same thing rpms jump up and it sputters a little and dies... this happened during the day so i noticed while it sputter its shootin smoke out the tail pipes and it smells like raw fuel.

so i park it don't really touch it, and i go away for the weekend come back and let the car idle for a bit, and i can hear a not so faint but not so obvious noise like a *puff puff... puffpuffpuff... puff* sometimes rapidly other times a big pause inbetween... so i take the car out and this is today, i took teh car out for a joy ride to wake my self up... and i notice it feels wierd... kinda like it has no power... and inbetween shifts when i step on teh clutch the rpms jump up then slowly fall... so im like okay let me rip on her once then ill take her home.

Get on it in second and the car starts sputter and back firing and BANG, tach meter is going berzerk, so i let off push clutch in and the rpms, drop back to normal....

so i get caught at a light and try it once more from first gear... car spun 1st i shifted 2nd it spun a little, but as im going through second i hear a WEIRD noise, almost like there is a second engine running next to me at WOT... i can't explain it.


I ahve done just bout everything to fix the problem when it first arrived...

Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
ECT
ACT
Smog Delete
EGR Delete
new 02s
I hace checked thoroughly for Vac leaks with a vac guage and the need is Steady at 19lbs at idle.

that motor blew up i did all that stuff to...

so i now have a 87SD 5.0

swapped over all the sensors...

and i also now have a EGR simulator plug in thing i jus put in...

Also i was checking the gap on my plugs the other day and noticed the p-side head plugs cyl 1 and 2 were both loose, like i just unthreaded them by hand... and could turn them but twisting the wire...

im at a complete loss... i have pulled codes and have gotten

31 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage. 0.24 volts (O,M,R)
(this is before i put the EGR plug in thing)

41 - System Indicates Lean -passenger side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -passenger side(M)

91 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Lean -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -driver side(M), Shift Solenoid 1 Circuit Failure (O)


I want to burn it lol... i gotta go to class later and im just praying she makes it there and back with out killing me

FivePointOhh

make sure there are no exhaust leaks prior to the o2's. make sure they are threaded all the way into the bung. remove the wire harness conenction to the o2's on both sides make sure there isnt excessive corrosion.

make sure your plugs are gapped correctly and the 31 code ....did you run codes at normal operating temp?

mjr46

is the orange ground wire for the o2's hooked to the back of the heads???

Night Terror

I do have exhuast leaks, but only at the flanges where the headers meet hte mid pipe and where the mid pipe meet the catbackk

but i have LongTubes, so the 02 is before the flanges

ill double check the orange ground wire, but im pretty sure i bolted that back to the head

and yes i let the car run till the E.Fan kicked in, which is about 180*, my car doesn;t see much beyond 190* cuz of the fan.

Night Terror

Btw i also have a new MSD ignition COIL

aode08

it sounds like your ground to the O2 sensors have failed you,


to determine this, cut some insulation off, set your DVOM to check resistance, touch your two probes together, you should get a zero reading meaning a great signal from probe to probe.

Now take the positve red probe, touch the negative battery terminal, the other end, that orange wire, and viola, you should get a zero as before, if not time to fix that ground wire.



To fix:





Ill say it again as I have a trillion times, that orange wire does not belong on the back of the head! , in fact that is a VERY BAD GROUND (OF MANY) location of that wire as it often corrodes and when removing the insulation, youll find that wire's copper, green corroded, rusted, or charcoaled black or burt.


I would remove the wire all the way down to its source, or as long as you need it, and run a simliar new guage wire. Use solder if you know how and heat shrink tubing.



Dont take any shortcuts, you'll only finger yourself. The backfiring will go away immediately if this is your true fault.

ps dont ever leave your hood open when swapping a motor, replace your coilpack with a stock one $20 autozone.

aode08

and I dont want to here"I give up" "I want to burn it lol"


as your automotive skills sharpen, you'll be able to diagnose many types of failures in under 10-15 minutes.

You know you swapped that motor and you know you took out that wire, you had no choice, the bolt that holds it to the rear of the driver cylinder head usually will not come off or if it does, that wire will usually instantly snap.

Night Terror

Okay so cut some of the rubber off the wire... and do that with this right?
http://www.e-mobilecentre.com/images...timeter-06.jpg

1984Fox

Yup. That is whatcha need....

aode08

you can set it whatever k (example 20k or 200k) , whichever creates a 0 when you touch the two probes together.