88 turbocoupe rear
#1
88 turbocoupe rear
Just got offered an 8.8 rear out of an 88 t-bird turbo...has 3.73 gears...for 400.00
i know it is .75 inches wider on either side and that limits my rim options, is there anything else to consider or will this just bolt in?
As far as making the brakes work i can just use a master cylinder out of a pre 86 mustang? someone had told me that but not sure how true, any help is appreciated, going to be running decent power and want good braking for handling, figured this might be a good way to do it.
i know it is .75 inches wider on either side and that limits my rim options, is there anything else to consider or will this just bolt in?
As far as making the brakes work i can just use a master cylinder out of a pre 86 mustang? someone had told me that but not sure how true, any help is appreciated, going to be running decent power and want good braking for handling, figured this might be a good way to do it.
#2
also, is there any difference in the axle housing
i.e i plan on runing a torque arm 3 link conv. from Maximum Motorsports, will there be any differences in the set up or will it all bolt together the same.
i.e i plan on runing a torque arm 3 link conv. from Maximum Motorsports, will there be any differences in the set up or will it all bolt together the same.
#3
its a direct bolt in deal, you will need a master cylinder from a car that had 4 wheel disk fronm the factory(86 SVO, 93 cobra)
#5
for rear disc you probably should change from factory. See if you can get the pValve from the turbocoupe, having 60mm front and the 45mm rear - the tbird unit is as close as you can get factory pValve excepting the 93 cobra - but it wont be exactly perfectly correct, but no regular production car is, they are biased maybe 10% - 15% more in front than need to be for saftey margin, but you could be off more than that... read:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/tcaxle.html
Proportioning Valve
Your stock proportioning valve is pre-metered for drum brakes (around 70% front, 30% rear). Rear disc brakes, with their increased fluid volume, can handle more of the braking duties. This means you need to decide what to do with the proportioning. There are two schools of thought: gut yours and install an adjustable prop valve, or replace yours with a prop valve from a factory rear-disc Ford automobile.
Now several people have reported that they used a stock 1987-88 Turbo Coupe factory disc brake proportioning valve with no problems. Same with a (Fox) Lincoln RWD Continental. We've even heard from a person that used an old 1978 Lincoln Versailles prop valve. So long as the Ford car had factory rear discs you should be able to use it. Remember that you will be stuck with the factory brake bias; there is no adjusting that valve. But for most people that probably won't be much of an issue. Best of all, you won't need to gut the valve and it should be a simple remove-and-replace deal.
Most folks gut their stock pValve and add an aftermarket adjustible willwood for example..
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/tcaxle.html
Proportioning Valve
Your stock proportioning valve is pre-metered for drum brakes (around 70% front, 30% rear). Rear disc brakes, with their increased fluid volume, can handle more of the braking duties. This means you need to decide what to do with the proportioning. There are two schools of thought: gut yours and install an adjustable prop valve, or replace yours with a prop valve from a factory rear-disc Ford automobile.
Now several people have reported that they used a stock 1987-88 Turbo Coupe factory disc brake proportioning valve with no problems. Same with a (Fox) Lincoln RWD Continental. We've even heard from a person that used an old 1978 Lincoln Versailles prop valve. So long as the Ford car had factory rear discs you should be able to use it. Remember that you will be stuck with the factory brake bias; there is no adjusting that valve. But for most people that probably won't be much of an issue. Best of all, you won't need to gut the valve and it should be a simple remove-and-replace deal.
Most folks gut their stock pValve and add an aftermarket adjustible willwood for example..
Last edited by Hamutoff; 12-06-2008 at 11:29 PM.
#6
you can get rid of the extra .75" on each side, use the factory sized mustang axles, get the http://www.northracecars.com/ offset bracket and you are now factory length.
you probably have the moan bracket holding on the original "flat" bracket that allows the factory tcoupe/93 cobra .75" offset... its welded onto the housing and bracket, just cut it off... its purpose is to negate vibration, you could probably modify it and reuse it but you could also cut it off and discard it!
you also need new parking brake cables, and might have to modify your parking brake handle so you dont drag the brakes. Get this kit:
and search the web for modification of parking brake assy
1 more; your quad shock brackets are slightly different angle and I think a bit longer but if you are going MM rear suspension you probably aren't going to be using quads, right?
you probably have the moan bracket holding on the original "flat" bracket that allows the factory tcoupe/93 cobra .75" offset... its welded onto the housing and bracket, just cut it off... its purpose is to negate vibration, you could probably modify it and reuse it but you could also cut it off and discard it!
you also need new parking brake cables, and might have to modify your parking brake handle so you dont drag the brakes. Get this kit:
and search the web for modification of parking brake assy
1 more; your quad shock brackets are slightly different angle and I think a bit longer but if you are going MM rear suspension you probably aren't going to be using quads, right?
Last edited by Hamutoff; 12-06-2008 at 11:28 PM.
#7
i got a 88 gt mustang with an 93 cobra rear end w/disc, everything else is stock brake wise..but here the problem i think the rear brakes are sticking when i drive...what woukd that be?
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