Sippix

How would I check to see if it has a leak in the rear main seal? She's been sitting since saturday evening, so would I find droplets along the mating for the flywheel and clutch?

As before, I can't really say anything definite until I get home and pop the hood and get up under her. Keep on going with the leads, because the more things I can check and troubleshoot, the more information I can provide y'all.

Thanks so much for all the information, tips and leads. I really appreciate it!

86 5.0L

you'll find out if its your rear main seal if you see oil stains on the floor more along where the bellhousing and block meet

Sippix

I would almost rather replace the entire clutch assembly using only a pair of pliers, a toothpick and a dead fish rather than have to change out any seals. I have had terrible experiences with replacing seals/gaskets on my '97 Malibu.

On a more serious note:

I may have to drop a clean piece of cardboard up under there so I can check for oil leaks. I live in an apartment complex, and all parking spaces are prestained for her pleasure. I suppose that if the leak is bad enough I won't need a clean piece of cardboard to tell me. Let's hope that's not the case.

Thank you for the tip!

86 5.0L

I think the rear main seal was the easiest thing to do when I replaced my clutch

5.0s are very easy to work on, defiantly not like a '97 Malibu

Sippix

Thanks, 86 5.0L! That makes me feel tons more confident in working on this particular series of engine.

Alright, I have just decided what I'm going to do if, in fact, everything in the clutch assembly is stock-replacement or OEM and that is my problem. I'm just going to buy new components. I was searching through RockAuto and Summit, and the price my buddy gave me MUST be with labor included.

Looks like for around 200 bucks and a little elbow grease, I can replace all this stuff on my own.

Does anyone have any suggestions on stock-replacement brands? I don't have the cash to go all-out and buy street/strip or racing rated parts just yet. Here's what I've found, so far. Please let me know if this will suffice to at least get me up and running. If I need any additional rings, bolts, lugs, nuts, etc, please advise.

Parts found on Summit:

Part#: ZZZ-MU48-1 (Zoom MU Series Clutches Street/OEM Replacement) $135.95

Part#: FMS-M-6701-B302 (Ford Racing Rear Main Seal Replacement - 302/5.0L) $11.88

Pats found on RockAuto:

Part#: SW1026 (SACHS Clutch Slave Cylinder) $28.79

86 5.0L

lets see if I remember what I did...

Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster
Ford Racing King Cobra clutch kit<---was ok, lots of people hate it
flywheel resurfaced
rear main seal(do you know how to do it?)
ATF fluid for the trans

and a few hours time me and my dad

Shelty

you'll need a pilot bearing, throwout bearing, steel bearing retainer, and you may as well replace the inputshaft seal while its out....

and there is sevral options for clutches...

personally, I reccommend the Centerforce Dual friction clutch... its a lil pricey, but they are extremely high quality units....

FivePointOhh

+1 for the CF DF but yea...its 300 bucks. you'll want to resurface your flywheel. new pilot bearing, steel bearing retainer, you can do the main seal if its leaking. i'm picky about the stuff i havent touched before so i would replace my flywheel bolts but you dont have to as long as they arent damaged. make sure you TQ those to spec though so buy/rent/borrow and TQ wrench.

if you want to change up your cable set-up just get an OEM cable, and metal clutch quadrant hook(just a regular one, every says you dont need this crazy triple hook crap.) and firewall adjuster.

FORD TOUGH

Here is what you need if you plan on racing the car. I highly recommend the steel flywheel and blowproof belloushing. At high rpms you clutch or flywheel ca explode. Some people have lost their toes plus their car was cut in half.
clutch http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail
Flywheel -http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.
Flywheel bolts-http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a
Pressure Plate bolts-http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a
Bellhousing-http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&
Rear main seal-http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-
Alignment dowles- http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
If you do not plan on racing the you can got your local auto parts store (I recommend napa or carquest) and get a Clutch kit, new flywheel, and rear main seal. I recommend getting a new flywheel because your old one probably has a lot of heat spots and will not be resalvagable. Also with a resurfaced flywheel you may have problems getting the clutch to release right. While you are underneath the car you may want to change the trans fluid too. To do the clutch you will need a jack, 4 stands, torque wrench, and a tool set.

Sippix

I didn't get home until after dark, and I can't find a damn flashlight anywhere. I was able to check for oil/fluid leaks under the car and, to my delight, there are none.

However, for every bit of good news comes bad news. I went to go do my road test, but the clutch is 100% non-responsive. I put her into reverse, released the clutch pedal and gave her gas - Nothing happens. The engine revs up the RPM's, but there is no movement of the vehicle what-so-ever. I tried several times just to make sure I had it in gear, and I do. I can feel it "lock" into place. But there is absolutely no response from the clutch.

I called everyone that's ever said they knew anything about cars. One of my buddies told me that it sounded like I lost all my hydraulic fluid, and that's why the clutch is not engaging, because there's nothing to put pressure against the plates? He also said that's where all that smoke came from, is the burning of the hydraulic fluid? Is this a possibilty? If so, where would I even check the hydraulic fluid level at? Is this the same resevoire as the brake fluid?

I have no idea, and I can't try FivePointOhh's suggestions for inspection until I find a friggin' flashlight.

Please advise...