5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

do i need these

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Old 01-10-2009, 07:27 PM
  #11  
1988TTOP
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the vac lines are gone i have my ways to get it though inspection
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:04 AM
  #12  
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anyone
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:43 AM
  #13  
ALMOST STOCK
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The 3 objects you have showing in your first pic are the (TAB TAD and EVR) and they’re strictly for emissions. Yes you can eliminate those 3 solenoids, just make sure that any vacuum lines left by eliminating the solenoids are sealed shut so that you don't have a vacuum leak later.

The only problem you might run into is if you leave them disconnected is you'll have their respective 8x code logged as "On Demand" codes, but will not cause the check engine light to turn on. However, if you don't want to have those codes showing, causing a KOEO self-test to take longer to be run, you could attach a 75 ohm 3-watt resistor to their harness connectors to "simulate" the solenoids coil resistance, and not have the codes show up.

There will be no drivability or performance problems with them NOT being connected and the Check Engine Light will not come on with or w/out those codes getting logged.

As stated by mjr46 the round ball thing on the passenger side (your 2nd pic) is for the HVAC, its a reservoir for WOT (wide open throttle). It has nothing to do with your cruise control.

If your 88 is anything like my 89 then cruise control is on the Driver side under the fender near the door and these are the vacuum lines related to the cruise control.


Last edited by ALMOST STOCK; 01-11-2009 at 03:44 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:00 PM
  #14  
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ok so on the the ball that hooks up to the tree and what to the other 2 vac lines hook up to
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:11 PM
  #15  
mustangmike33
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you may want to keep the vacuum ball for the hvac. it builds up the pressure so that your vents open up when you switch your slector to them. other than that i believe the only vacuum lines you may need are as follows. in case you have a stock fpr, you'll need the line from it. now with this vacuum line, you can either run it to your intake, or to the vacuum tree, its your choice. you'll need a vacuum line from the intake to your tree, and from the brake booster to the tree. if your not gonna run cruise control plug that one off, and take the cruise control completely out. i did this with mine, of course im not in an emissions state so im fine with it, but its up to you. so fpr to intake or tree, brake booster to tree, and intake to tree. thats it. disgard the rest. imo!
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:14 PM
  #16  
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so what all comes off that ball so i will have heat
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:30 PM
  #17  
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hmmmm, thats a good question. my heat never worked in my car from the time i got until here recently. my heater core was busted and rerouted around it. imo, id retrace all the line that run from it and go from there. now if you did away with it all together, youd still have heat it would just come from the defrost at the windsheild. i dont think your vents would work entirely, but then again they might. thats something you'll have to mess around with on your own. but retrace the lines from the ball and find out what the lines run too, and go from there. sorry i couldnt be more help!!
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:40 PM
  #18  
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thats ok man it the vac line were messed up since i got it so i am tryin to figure them out
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:45 PM
  #19  
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id take them all out except for those select few i mentioned. i put my heater core back in my car and do have heat, just from the defrost, but it get hot in there. that may be enough for you. take em all out, lol.
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:53 PM
  #20  
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lol yea i think i figured it out i got 1 more i got to find out were it gose
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