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Weight removal???

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Old 01-25-2009, 07:50 PM   #1
hillbilly pony
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Default Weight removal???

Ok i have gotten the 87 down to basics again waiting for the 408 to be completed. My question is what else can i do to relieve her of extra pounds. The interior is completely gutted. The dash is just the shell. all of the wiring and A/C ducting and everything is gone.

How do you remove weight from the doors without hurting the structural integrity??

Im kinda thinking the next plan is lexan windows and fiberglass parts.

Let me know
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1987 GT. 13.7:1 408 with TW "R" heads, Probe SRS Flat Tops, custom pro systems 950 carb. .671/671 comp cam. Rollerized C4 w/brake 4800 stall, Strange 31 splines w/spool. 10 point cage, Subframes, 4Cyl springs and 90/10's, 50/50's and lakewood uppers/lowers. 325/50/15's
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:05 PM   #2
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sounds like you got the majority of it done. i don't know if theres much you can take out of the doors on fox boxes really. i think majority of whats left for you is fiberglass hoods/fenders/hatch with all lexan windows, lighten it right up. have you upgraded to a tubular kmember yet? that sheds a few pounds.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:09 PM   #3
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you can take the safety bars out of the doors theyre like 30 lbs. a piece
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:17 PM   #4
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yea but if he was to get in a wreck its not worth it. if he has a cage with side bars its something to consider

console delete
remove the ebrake with the assembly
remove the sway bars
remove the sound deadening
remove the carpet
racing seats
remove the backseat
get a billet alt bracket
aluminum radiator
remove bumper supports (not for a street cars)
fiberglass parts
remove power steering
tubular k-member kit
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:21 PM   #5
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The End all to Weight Reduction
Weight - Your basic 5 speed coupe without driver weights 3250lbs. So with an average driver weighing about 180lbs that puts your race weight at 3430lbs. At that weight and a power to weight ratio of .075 you would need 258RWHP to hit 12ā€™s. Power to weight is the power of your car (rear wheel) divided by race weight of the car. Using my car when I broke into the 12ā€™s first time I was making 246RWHP and had a race weight of 3250lb, which worked out to a .075 power to weight ratio or .075RWHP per pound of the car. From what Iā€™ve seen a car can get into the 12s with a .075 to .080 P/W ratio. So if your race weight is 3430lbs then 3430 * .075 = 257.25RWHP. As long as you keep this ratio in the .075 to .080 range you are fine plus keep in mind you can drop weight instead of adding power. An example of this is a car with a 3000lb race weight could break into the 12s with 225RWHP (close to stock power on a GT). ā€“thanks Code3gt

Weight Reduction 101:
Fiberglass or Carbon Fiber (if available)
Hood
Front Bumper
Fenders
Doors
Dash
Trunk lid
Rear bumper

Other Ideas:
Tubular k-member
Tubular A-arms
Coil-overs
Aluminum Block
Aluminum radiator
Aluminum Heads
Aluminum Driveshaft
Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum underdrive pulleys
Remove smog
Remove front sway bar
Remove Power steering
Remove Inner wheel tubs
Remove Spare tire & Jack
Remove Air Conditioning
Remove Rear Seat
Remove rear seat brace
Remove Sound Deadening In trunk and under rear seat and in Interior panels
Remove Trunk Panels
Remove Black Block around the Driveshaft (a.k.a the "Dogbone")
Remove Strut tower brace
Remove Spoilers
Remove Stereo Equipment
Remove Air box
Remove Center Console
Remove floor mats
Remove rear seat belts
Remove black boxes in rear (which is supposed to help stop the car during a rear end collision)
Remove front/rear bumper foam
Remove Bumper Supports
Remove Quad Shocks
Remove Cruise Control
Remove/ Cut your exhaust off before the rear axle
Remove Fog lights and mounting braces
Remove Radio and accessories
Remove the heater assembly
Remove door supports
Remove e-brake and assembly
Remove power locks and window motors are heavy too
Billet alt bracket
Windshield washing system
Light weight battery (Odyssey makes a 25lbs battery)
Fuel Cell
Light weight Racing Brakes (Aerospace brakes)
Lexan Windows
Lightweight Rear Control Arms
Racing seats Racing Rims *aka Weld Prostars Bogartā€™s
The black braces behind the rear tires (Inside the fenders) There is a ballast weight bolted to the inner right fender used to dampen cowl shake. (Verts Only)
-Stock mid-pipes and Headers weigh a ton -
Get a Gym Membership
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Actual Weights:

Stock 302 Shortblock with crank, rods pistons but no cam, no timing chain, no timing, no timing cover and no oil pan was 184.85 pounds.

Stock 302 Bare Block w/ Main Caps, 125.70 LBS

World Class T5 out of 85 SVO, not FULL of fluid but I think it still has some in it 71.55 LBS

Passenger Seat out of 85 SVO, cloth style, with seat track & manual lumber inflators, 44.25 LBS

SVO (might be same or similar to other 79-86 bumper reinforcement?), Steel Bumper Reinforcement, 30.70 LBS

79-90 Fender, no moldings or anything, 13.70 pounds

Front Bumper Mount Shock deals with bolts, 10.75 pounds

Steeda Drag Front Sway Bar for 79-93, has the bushing mounts but no endlinks, 13.30 pounds

Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Head fully assembled with Crane Energizer 1.6 Roller Rockers, no port work, 33.65 pounds, 30.05 pounds bare

E5 Head fully assembled with stock rockers, no port work, 53.85 pounds

Crane Energizer 1.6 RR's with Poly Locks, 7.05 pounds

Stock 87-93 Hood with latch and not much paint, 41.05 pounds

85 SVO Leather E Brake Handle, no hardware, 2.05 pounds

Weighed the center arm rest, 6.90 pounds, the 87-93 center console without the armrest and missing the ash tray door & shifter bezel is 5.45 pounds, 12.35 total with arm rest. Thats including the power mirror switch, ac bezel and radio frame.

SVO Steering Wheel, no leather wrap on the wheel itself, 5.55 pounds

Griffin Circle Track Aluminum Raditor, part number 1-26272-X, 15.45 Pounds

Stock HO Intake, nothing in it but a couple of sensors and the TB studs, 33.15 LB's

Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Intake, bare, 38.90 LB's

Smog Pump with the first part of line to the valve thing, no other piping, 8.45 LB's

Horns, 1.35 LB's

Windshield Wipers, 1.30 LB's

Wiper Arms under cowl panel, 1.85 LB's

Wiper Motor, 3.95 LB's

Cruise Control Canister thing up in the fendor, 2.50 LB's

AC Compressor w/ Small AC Bracket, 18.00 LB's

Cargo Cover, 4.90 LB's

94-95 Factory Strut Tower Brace, no hardware, 7.20 LB's

Factory 92-95 Mini Starter, 7.80 LB's

Harwood 3 Inch Pin On Cowl Hood, 15.70 LBS

Cobra R SVO Bolton Hood, no latch, unknown brand, 29.75 LBS

Insulation in hatch (not including attached to carpet) on 87-93 hatcback car, right at 10 LBS

PA Super Comp C4 w/ SFI Bellhousing, no fluid, 116.8 LBS

Continental 3800 Stall Converter, 30.75 LBS

Some stuff from a 95 GT:

Spare, 19.85 LBS

Jack, 5.75 LBS

Insulation in trunk, 1.70 LBS

Lug Wrench, 1.65 LBS

T56 out of a 93 Z28, probably similar weight to one for a Mustang Im sure, no bellhousing, no fluid, no clutch fork, 119.20 LBS

97 Cobra Wheel 17x8, 22.45 LBS

Weld Pro Star 15x8, 5 Lug, 14.05 LBS

Stock T5 Bellhousing, 10.85 LBS

FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, 13.70 LBS

Stock H Pipe w/ 4 Converters, 33.65 LBS

Offroad H Pipe, 17.35 LBS Front fog light bar, with lights - 20lbs A/C compressor - 17lbs 10 hole wheel with 235/60/15 SLX5000 tire - 46lbs MM Strut Brace - 8 lbs __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________


At the track you can take out passenger Seat

Weight Transfer
-Remove Front Sway bar
-Relocate Battery
*most/ some of the stuff is not for street use. Use common sense*
If you can think of anything else let me know and i will add it in.

list of what stuff weighs after its taken off
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:22 PM   #6
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for 94 and up cars
http://www.modularrevolution.com/Weight.htm
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:33 PM   #7
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how light are you trying to get your car?
my car still has all the original sheet metal and factory glass. no fibergass hood either. and it wieghs 2440 and it's a hatch.
you have to be creative. you have to dig inot stuff, and remove everything and anything that will not get used. little stuff like the cable bracket under thcar for the ebrake, converting to manual windows. you just have to be creative. my car would be even lighter if i didn't add a full rollcage and those long subframe connectors.
maybe you can get a few ideas from my car.
good luck and be creative.


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Old 01-26-2009, 03:22 AM   #8
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holy crap i just found my favorite fox on mustang forums.

AMAZING car killerkx
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302army187 View Post
holy crap i just found my favorite fox on mustang forums.

AMAZING car killerkx
Yeah..... I think I have to agree...hands down. Your car is sick!
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:38 AM   #10
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killer's car is pretty amazing IMO! ...nice ride!
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:41 AM   #11
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a lot of people wont spend the dough to have a tubular front end made or to buy aerospace brakes.

i do know the first time i saw your car it gave me several ideas though
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:41 AM   #12
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WOW!!! That is sick. Can you remove that much metal forward of the strut towers with the stock frame members and upper fender supports?? i like the idea on the doors and definitely like the way you did your tunnel and dash....BUT several people said remove the E brake stuff...How the hell do you keep the thing from rolling around so much...oh i have no drive train installed right now.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:28 AM   #13
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leave it in gear or parking blocks
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:45 AM   #14
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What about the metal removal...think that would be strong enough with stock frame rails and strut towers
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1987 GT. 13.7:1 408 with TW "R" heads, Probe SRS Flat Tops, custom pro systems 950 carb. .671/671 comp cam. Rollerized C4 w/brake 4800 stall, Strange 31 splines w/spool. 10 point cage, Subframes, 4Cyl springs and 90/10's, 50/50's and lakewood uppers/lowers. 325/50/15's
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:14 PM   #15
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thanks everyone for the compliments.
but the stuff i've done doesn't take alot of money. i have less then $100 in the front clip setup.
all i did was buy the tubing fromthe local steel place and went to the shop and set it up.it is super easy to do.i did it all in about 8 hours. by myself.
i only put my car up here to give you guys ideas. if you look closely to the details you'll se what i mean. all it takes is a little time and creativity.
if you're serious about shaving wieght then you'll find ways to do it.
Oh and jasper the brakes are $1100 for the complete setup. it's the best money you'll spend on your foxbody gauranteed.
just an example.
i have a 100% bonestock 89 hatch. i converted it over to 5 lug so i could put nice wheels on it. and then i used the earospace breaks all the way around. just changing the breaks front and rear i saved over 60 pounds and gained 3/10ths in the 1/4
it ran 14.2 before and 13.9 after. and the brakes was all i changed.
heres the car just before i put the brakes on it.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:28 PM   #16
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note to self.


convert to 5lug
buy earospace brakes.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:11 AM   #17
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The best weight reductions are what I have done.


Alum Heads-Stock Ones are like weights!

Factory Seats-VERY HEAVY, get front racing, I threw the rears away.

HATCH AND GLASS-VERY HEAVY-Get Fiberglass and Lexan

STOCK HOOD-Get Fiber Glass

Alum Driveshaft STOCK VERY HEAVY, and Heavy Rotational Mass

Alum Rims and Tubular K Memeber

Relocate Batt to Trunk

FOG LIGHT BAR HEAVY




Very Noticable diff
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302army187 View Post
note to self.


convert to 5lug
buy earospace brakes.
i thought it was aerospace. hahaha

im checking into strange brakes myself. what do you think about them killer?
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasperstang308 View Post
i thought it was aerospace. hahaha

im checking into strange brakes myself. what do you think about them killer?
strange brakes are excellent choices as well. but the aerospace brakes are considerably less expensive.not too mention they look real pretty.
the reason drag brakes work so well and you can pick up E.T. with them, is that they are designed to back off when you let of the brake pedal.
unlike stock brakes that are always draggin.
when you let off the brake pedal with aerospace brakes or most other drag brakes,the pistons suck back into the caliper and pull the pad away from the rotor. factory brakes don't do that. and not to mention you save a ton in rotational wieght and unsprung wieght.
when aerospace told me i would pick up at least 2/10 in the quarter with thier brakes i didn't beleive them.
they gauranted i would pick up 2-3 tenths ,so i said send them to me.
and they did exactly what they said they would.
and in reference to the other guy that posted that his wieght savings measures were the best ones, i will argue that.
the best wieght savings you can have are the ones that are free. buying a fiberglass hatch and hood are very expensive. i don't have either on my car and i gaurantee it's lighter then 98% of the foxbodies out there.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302army187 View Post
note to self.


convert to 5lug
buy earospace brakes.
it's very inexpensive if you do them at the same time. if you have a stock rear end. all you need is the 5 lug 28 spline conversion axles which can be bought very cheap.like less then $140 here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-93...Q5fAccessories

. then you will need c-clip eliminators like these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...4506.m20.l1116

then all you have to do is order the front and rear 5 lug brake kit from aerospace. and if you shop around you can find them pretty cheap on ebay, or some that have been used for mock up on the nmra forums.and thats it. so for about $1400 or less you can swap over to 5 lug and have a sweet brake setup, that looks and work much better then stock. and then you're open to a whole lot more wheel choices as well.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:49 PM
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