STANG6504

so if you have a solid roller you dont not have to break it in???just go and drive as hard as i want or do i have to drive it hard for the rings to seat???

mjr46

^^^^drive it normally like you would, once all is set up and no odd noises are heard, I drove mine for about 5 miles easy to listen for odd noises then I accidentilly pushed the accelerator hard into the floor boards!!lol ......if it's gonna come apart , it'll do it right away and if it does it won't matter if you drove it like you stole it or babbied it for 3000 miles, cause if it flies apart, then tolerances or something was not set up right

PJC Racing

No but you should rest your valve lash after the engine has warmed up.

F150 StrokerCobra

my engine is a reman engine from ford so no custom machining was done.. im gonna do this how does it sound

start it rev it up and down from idle to 2500 for about 2 mins or so to chek for leaks and noises then drive it around the block one or 2 times chek for overheating and oil press.. then get on the open road and let the rings seat

get on a slight hill in 3rd at about 2000 rpm to load the engine .. then slowly i will begin to shift higher rpms.. like 4000 will be max till 500 miles then after oil change i will bounce it off the limiter and drive it like i will be for the next years to come

how does it sound?

btw how much oil press should i be seeing from idle to 5000 Rpm??

Portmaster

If your engine was run in on a dyno (assuming it was given you gave the torque numbers) and the break-in oil changed the rings are seated. They were seated before the first full on dyno pull. I'm telling you I've built engines in the morning and raced them that night. If the engine clearance is right, has the right cyl bore finish it doesn't know the differance in 1 mile and 100,000 miles.

mjr46

you can do what you stated but it's not necessary.

Portmaster

No need to rev it up and down unless you just want to listen to it. I'd give it at least until the cooling system reaches OT so it builds pressure to check for coolant leaks. drive it around the block a few times check it again for leaks, change the oil to whatever you intend to run in it and hammer it. Oil pressure will depend on the pump used,oil used and the bearing clearance during the build. Oil pressure will be higher at start-up until the oil and engine warms up. I like to see 35 psi at hot idle and 55pi at anything above 2000 rpm. I wouldn't worry with a consistan't 20+ psi at idle or a consistant 40+psi over 2000 rpm. If you get over 60psi at OT and over 2000 rpm you may want to switch oils.

mustangbrake

dont rev it too high...i would say half of the redline for at least 500 miles. also DO NOT put synthetic oil in while breaking it in. it is important to "wear" while breaking it in. this will make the rings and cyliners not burn oil later.

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No links to place of business please! thanks

mustangbrake

If you want the car to be "healthy" for a long time, I wouldn't beat on it! You don't need to do anything special to break it in, just drive it in the same manner you would any other car.


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no links to place of business please

Portmaster

Why wouldn't you rev it but halfway to redline for the first 500 miles?