Cory_70Convertible

Okay I am new to the forum and have searched extensively all forums I could on my particular problem I will outline below. Maybe I will get some more insight:
I bought a 1970 Mustang Convertible made to look like a Boss 302 clone. It has a 1993 5.0L supercharged engine in it (allegedly a 1993 anyways I haven't totally confirmed that) It has a modified cam, Twisted Wedge head and Trick Flow Intake and NOS. I was told it has 46lb injectors but from looking at the injectors they are green top and may be Ford Racing 42lb or Bosch (true or not true) It has an aftermarket fuel pump mounted outside the tank underneath the car. Duel exhaust (no H pipe)

Now my problem is when I took delivery of it and started it at home I am getting alot of fuel coming out of the passenger side exhaust at the back, it's like moisture combined with alot of gas. So far I have found that all cylinders and spark plugs look relatively good except for very front cylinder on passenger side. That plug is still wet with gas and obviously may have gotten flooded and not firing and therefore all the gas is getting pushed out the exhaust port and/or the injector is stuck open?? My local mechanic (pretty small town) says he can hear it working. I checked the plug wire from the distributor and it has "good" resistance but I haven't checked to see if it is getting proper voltage through it.

Someone told me it could be the fuel pressure regulator which is red and appears to be an aftermarket one that is adjustable?? I know nothing about this.

Next - the fuel pump may be running continuously and not shutting off after car starts. In the trunk there was a small black relay that the fuel pump, battery (battery is in the trunk) and accessory wire was wired into and I disconnected it yesterday and just hooked the pump directly to the accessory wire. I know today that this was probably wrong and I will hook it back up the way it was. It didn't have a switch on it like an inertia shut off so I am not sure what kind of relay it is. Nonetheless the car was still flooding the one cylinder either way I had fuel pump hooked up.

I haven't found the computer yet which I am hoping is under the dash somewhere. I will try and take dash apart tonight or tomorrow.
I found the EEC module in the engine bay but thats about it. Apparently I have to find the MAF sensor as well.

This is what I think I am going to do - take off or disabale the NOS system by unplugging it from the fuel line and putting in a Shraeder valve?? I already took the bottle out of the trunk. Take off the fuel rail and replace or test that one injector.

How do I check the fuel regulator and it being "adjustable" how do I check to make sure it's not hooped and how do I adjust it and then what do I adjust it to??

What else should I do?

With my system components I described above could I go down to smaller injectors and if so what size? I am not a speed freak and won't be racing this car.

Sorry for the length of post and thanks for any insight.
Cory

Az_bronco_rob

Cory, as far as the fuel pressure regulator, go to your local parts store and buy a fuel pressure tester (about 20-30 bucks) and test the fuel pressure. To do this, attach it to the fuel line going to the fuel rail, either on the front of the engine or real close to it (looks like a tire valve stem). You should have 35-40 psi, stock. If it is higher, you either have an ajestable one or a bad one. Since your car is supercharged, they probably used one that increases the pressure as the boost increases so do your testing at idle.

Another thing you can try is to move the suspect injector (#1?) to the other side of the motor (cyl #7, for example), run it a little bit, then check the plugs again to see if the problem followed the injector of not. If so, then replace that injector.

Also, once you figure it out, be sure to change the oil as it will be contaminated with gas and will be to thin to properly oil the bearings

Cory_70Convertible

Will check injector today and move it to other side and see if problem follows.

Another question maybe someone can answer - If this engine was a "Low Compression" build what should my compression readings look like when I test it after I fix my flooding problem? Does a "Low Compression" build even mean that it would have lower cylinder compression readings or is that just mean the compression ratio is under 10:1?
Thanks,
Cory

Az_bronco_rob

It's hard to say what the compression readings should be but they all should be within 5-10 % of each other. It's not just the comp ratio that effects cyl press, the cam has a big effect on that as well.