Fault in YOUR 5.0 ?IAT/ACT Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Sensor
02-28-2009, 08:45 AM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
Fault in YOUR 5.0 ?IAT/ACT Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Sensor
Bringing my car back for a weird power and RPM loss when warm that has occurred every since I owned the car, the tuner discovered the IAT/ACT was reading WAY WARMER Air than it should be,
/ being located in the stock position intake manifold.
It has been relocated Yesterday to the CAI Pipe away from the engine and reads the same as the outside air temp now.
Any feedback on this?, my car pulls alot better and feels different cold and hot, same sensor different location.
/ being located in the stock position intake manifold.
It has been relocated Yesterday to the CAI Pipe away from the engine and reads the same as the outside air temp now.
Any feedback on this?, my car pulls alot better and feels different cold and hot, same sensor different location.
03-18-2009, 12:22 AM
#4
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
HERE IS THE EASY WAY FOR ALL.
1.If you have a factory rubber intake tube, buy a new ambient air temperature aka air charge sensor.
2.Take a 1/2 extension, heat it, use it to make a hole BEFORE THE MAF, NEAR THE FRONT HEADLIGHT(AWAY FROM HOT HEADERS).
3. Extend the sensor's wiring, screw in the hole, no sealant needed.
COLD AIR INTAKE(METAL INTAKE TUBE)
-Drill a hole, with a drillbit of 1/2 inch or a little smaller .
-bang the 1/2 extension into the hole making 1/2 hole
-remove shavings and screw the sensor in, no sealant needed.
What happens, the car performs as well hot, as it did cold
Most newer vehicles use this concept, some even put the sensor on the front bumper support(chrysler) ./
Skill Level- Easy
Time 5-15 Mins
1.If you have a factory rubber intake tube, buy a new ambient air temperature aka air charge sensor.
2.Take a 1/2 extension, heat it, use it to make a hole BEFORE THE MAF, NEAR THE FRONT HEADLIGHT(AWAY FROM HOT HEADERS).
3. Extend the sensor's wiring, screw in the hole, no sealant needed.
COLD AIR INTAKE(METAL INTAKE TUBE)
-Drill a hole, with a drillbit of 1/2 inch or a little smaller .
-bang the 1/2 extension into the hole making 1/2 hole
-remove shavings and screw the sensor in, no sealant needed.
What happens, the car performs as well hot, as it did cold
Most newer vehicles use this concept, some even put the sensor on the front bumper support(chrysler) ./
Skill Level- Easy
Time 5-15 Mins
03-18-2009, 12:27 AM
#5
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
You can leave the old one in the old hole to stay sealed, or buy 1/2 plumbing nut from home depot and screw it in, take the sensor with you if you want to match
the nut is $.78 cent
the sensor $16.00
extend wiring 0.00-$7.00
the nut is $.78 cent
the sensor $16.00
extend wiring 0.00-$7.00
03-18-2009, 10:20 AM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: KY
Posts: 4
ok' I am going to try this out when I get the sensor, it had to be ordered.
my old one was FULL OF BLACK GUNK, BUT I USED THE NUT to seal the hole with some teflon around the plumbing nut/
You are very bright putting the sensor here and it makes sense
1.there will be no more gunk on the sensor, messing up
2.there will be an accurate OUTSIDE air temperature reading for the ECM , good find !
my old one was FULL OF BLACK GUNK, BUT I USED THE NUT to seal the hole with some teflon around the plumbing nut/
You are very bright putting the sensor here and it makes sense
1.there will be no more gunk on the sensor, messing up
2.there will be an accurate OUTSIDE air temperature reading for the ECM , good find !
03-18-2009, 02:29 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: el paso tx
Posts: 457
HERE IS THE EASY WAY FOR ALL.
1.If you have a factory rubber intake tube, buy a new ambient air temperature aka air charge sensor.
2.Take a 1/2 extension, heat it, use it to make a hole BEFORE THE MAF, NEAR THE FRONT HEADLIGHT(AWAY FROM HOT HEADERS).
3. Extend the sensor's wiring, screw in the hole, no sealant needed.
COLD AIR INTAKE(METAL INTAKE TUBE)
-Drill a hole, with a drillbit of 1/2 inch or a little smaller .
-bang the 1/2 extension into the hole making 1/2 hole
-remove shavings and screw the sensor in, no sealant needed.
What happens, the car performs as well hot, as it did cold
Most newer vehicles use this concept, some even put the sensor on the front bumper support(chrysler) ./
Skill Level- Easy
Time 5-15 Mins
1.If you have a factory rubber intake tube, buy a new ambient air temperature aka air charge sensor.
2.Take a 1/2 extension, heat it, use it to make a hole BEFORE THE MAF, NEAR THE FRONT HEADLIGHT(AWAY FROM HOT HEADERS).
3. Extend the sensor's wiring, screw in the hole, no sealant needed.
COLD AIR INTAKE(METAL INTAKE TUBE)
-Drill a hole, with a drillbit of 1/2 inch or a little smaller .
-bang the 1/2 extension into the hole making 1/2 hole
-remove shavings and screw the sensor in, no sealant needed.
What happens, the car performs as well hot, as it did cold
Most newer vehicles use this concept, some even put the sensor on the front bumper support(chrysler) ./
Skill Level- Easy
Time 5-15 Mins
03-18-2009, 02:59 PM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
all you did was trick the ecm into putting more fuel into your car... the tuner could have just fattened up your fuel tables a tad and you would have had the same results
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
03-18-2009, 04:56 PM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 836
all you did was trick the ecm into putting more fuel into your car... the tuner could have just fattened up your fuel tables a tad and you would have had the same results
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
03-18-2009, 05:03 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
all you did was trick the ecm into putting more fuel into your car... the tuner could have just fattened up your fuel tables a tad and you would have had the same results
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
the ACT reads temp in the manifold, when an engine runs, it makes heat. Therefor, you inherently get warmer air temps..
And for those of you whom are reading this thread. I would take all of AODE08's advice with a grain of salt... he's supposedly an ASE tech, but when he couldn't get his flexplate bolted on, he enlarged the holes to get it to fit... then wondered why his car was shaking while running.
addermk2 welcome back, still beating folks with that ol helmet of yours in the closet? ehh : )
haven't seen you in a while, that scenario was under the influence of liquor and I was not ASE CERTIFIED that year... AND ADDERMK2, that was the first time I have ever removed an engine, old - at least im honest
sure pics coming now
Last edited by aode08; 03-18-2009 at 05:26 PM.