TubbaMach

Go Fred Flinstone Style and use your feet man. lol

Portmaster

It's prob sucking the hose shut. Pressure hose and Vac hose are differant animals.

mustangmike33

ok portmaster, thanks alot. how uch a vacuum gauges?

Portmaster

A cheap one about 12-15 dollars

mustangmike33

oh ok, well i appreciate it

o2jayjay

i stopped reading once i got to this response and dont know if its been addressed already. your problem is your head bolts. you cannot reuse stock head bolts. the stretch when torqued upon. hinting why you had problems torquing them in the frist place. i built 2 motors already and i know for sure that you cannot reuse them unless you want problems.

o2jayjay

who told you how to take your engine apart anyway? you cant just start pulling thing off you engine and thing you can just put things back together. anyway time for me to help you. this is what i got for ya. humm.. that didnt work out too well. send me your personal email and ill email you the correct installation on how to assemble you engine back together. it have pic and everything. so you should be good on properly putting your car back together.

Engine
SECTION 303-01B: Engine — 4.6L (2V) 2002 Mustang Workshop Manual
ASSEMBLY Procedure revision date: 10/27/2003
Special Tool(s)
Guides, Connecting Rod
303-442 (T93P-6136-A)
Installer, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
303-518 (T95P-6701-DH)
Installer, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
303-516 (T95P-6701-BH)
Installer, Crankshaft Rear Oil Slinger
303-517 (T95P-6701-CH)
Impact Slide Hammer
100-001 (T50T-100-A)
Compressor Spacer, Valve Spring
303-382 (T91P-6565-AH)
Spreader Bar
303-D089 (D93P-6001-A3)
Lifting Bracket, Engine
303-D087 (D93P-6001-A1)
Lifting Bracket, Engine
303-D088 (D93P-6001-A2)
Lifting Bracket Set, Engine
303-D074 (D91P-6001-A)
Installer, Crankshaft Vibration Damper
303-102 (T74P-6316-B)
Installer, Front Cover Oil Seal
303-335 (T88T-6701-A)
Compressor, Piston Ring
303-D032 (D81L-6002-C) or equivalent
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Assembly
NOTE: During engine assembly, it may by necessary to check bearing clearances and end play. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
1. Record the main bearing code found on the front of the engine block.
2. Record the main bearing code found on the back of the crankshaft.
3. Using the data recorded earlier and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Standard Bearings Chart determine the required bearing grade for each main bearing.
Read the first letter of the engine block main bearing code and the first letter of the crankshaft main bearing code.
Read down the column below the engine block main bearing code letter, and across the row next to the crankshaft main bearing code letter, until the two intersect. This is
Holding Tool, Crankshaft
303-448 (T93P-6303-A)
Remover/Installer, Cylinder Head
303-572 (T97T-6000-A)
Compressor, Valve Spring
303-567 (T97P-6565-AH)
Strap Wrench
303-D055 (D85L-6000-A) or equialent
Crankshaft Seal Installer
303-635
Material
Item Specification
Silicone Gasket and Sealant
F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent
WSE-M4G323-A4
Super Premium SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil
XO-5W20-QSP or equivalent
WSS-M2C153-H
Motorcraft Silicone Gasket Remover
ZC-30
—
Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep
ZC-31
—
Hydraulic Chain Tensioner Retaining Clip
1L32-6P250-AA
—
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the required bearing grade for the number one crankshaft main bearing.
As an example, if the engine block code letter is "F" and the crankshaft code letter is "D," the correct bearing grade for this main bearing is "2."
Repeat this process for the remaining four main bearings.
4. If oversize bearings are being used, use the procedure in the previous step and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Oversize Bearing Chart to determine the required grade for each
main bearing.
NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free from chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.
5. Install the crankshaft upper main bearings into the cylinder block and lubricate them with clean engine oil.
6. NOTE: Do not install the upper thrust washer until the crankshaft is installed. Refer to Step 3.
NOTE: Do not install the upper thrust washer until the crankshaft is installed. Refer to Step 3.
Install the crankshaft onto the upper main bearings.
7. NOTE: The oil groove on the thrust washer must face toward the rear of the engine (against the crankshaft surface).
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Push the crankshaft rearward and install the crankshaft upper thrust washer at the rear of the No. 5 main boss.
8. NOTE: Rotate the jackscrews into the bearing caps enough to provide clearance to the cylinder block prior to installing the bearing caps.
Install the lower main bearings into the main bearing caps and lubricate them with clean engine oil.
9. Install the rear main bearing cap.
10. Install the remaining main bearing caps on the cylinder block and tap into place using a plastic or dead-blow hammer.
11. Install the vertical main bearing cap fasteners and tighten in the sequence shown.
Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Tighten an additional 85-95 degrees.
12. Back out the jackscrews against the cylinder block in sequence shown.
Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
13. Install the side bolts and tighten them in the sequence shown.
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14. Check the crankshaft end play. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
15. Check the piston to cylinder block and piston ring clearances. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
16. Install the piston rings.
17. Make sure the ring gaps (oil spacer [A], oil ring [B], and compression ring [C]) are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston.
18.
NOTE: Only one piston and connecting rod shown, others similar.
NOTE: Make sure the crankshaft is facing forward.
NOTE: Lubricate the piston rings, cylinder walls and connecting rod bearings with clean engine oil.
Install the upper bearings in the connecting rod as shown.
19. NOTE: The piston grade number will face the rear of the engine.
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Check that the piston/connecting rod assembly is oriented with the identification marks facing the front of the engine.
20.
NOTE: Make sure the crankshaft is at TDC.
NOTE: Only one connecting rod assembly shown, others similar.
Using the special tool install the piston and connecting rod assembly by pushing the pistons through the top of the cylinder block.
21. NOTE: These bolts are torque-to-yield. Install new bolts each time they are serviced.
Install the connecting rod bearing caps and bolts and tighten in three stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
22. Rotate the crankshaft and install the remaining piston and connecting rod assemblies.
23. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
24. Install the oil pump and tighten the bolts.
25. NOTE: Install a new O-ring if necessary.
Install the oil pump screen cover and tube.
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26. NOTE: If not secured within four minutes, sealant must be removed and sealing area cleaned with metal surface cleaner. Allow to dry until there are no signs of wetness, or four
minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
If the retainer plate was removed, apply a 4 mm (0.16 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant around the rear oil seal retainer sealing surface.
27. Install the rear main seal retainer plate. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown.
28. Cylinder Heads in the
Removal portion of this section.
NOTE: RH head gasket shown; LH head gasket similar.
Install the head gasket over the dowel pins.
29.
a 38.1 mm (1.5 in) square area.
NOTE: The new cylinder head bolts must be lightly oiled with a rag, and allowed to drain for a few minutes prior to installation.
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NOTE: RH head gasket shown; LH head gasket similar.
Install the cylinder head on the dowels and the head gasket. Loosely install new bolts.
30. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Tighten the bolts in six stages in the sequence shown.
Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one full turn.
Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
31. Remove the special tools from both ends of the cylinder head.
32. NOTE: Lubricate the hydraulic lash adjusters with clean engine oil.
Install the hydraulic lash adjusters in their original locations.
33.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Using a vise, compress the tensioner plunger.
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34. Install a retaining clip on the tensioner to hold the plunger in during installation.
35. Remove the tensioner from the vise.
36. If the copper links are not visible, mark one link on one end and one link on the other end to use as timing marks.
37. Install the timing chain guides.
1. Position the LH timing chain guide.
2. Install and tighten the LH bolts.
3. Position the RH timing chain guide.
4. Install and tighten the RH bolts.
38. Rotate the RH camshaft sprocket until the timing mark is approximately at the 11 o'clock position. Rotate the LH camshaft sprocket until the timing mark is approximately at the
12 o'clock position.
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39.
installed. Severe piston and valve damage will occur.
occur.
NOTE: The number one cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) when the stud on the engine block fits into the slot in the handle of the special tool.
Using the special tool, position the crankshaft so the number one cylinder is at TDC.
40. Remove the special tool.
41. Install the crankshaft sprocket, making sure the flange faces forward.
42. Position the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing mark on the sprocket.
43. Install the LH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing marks on the sprocket.
44. NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.
Position the LH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the LH timing chain tensioner.
45. Remove the retaining clip from the LH timing chain tensioner.
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46. Position the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing mark on the sprocket.
47. Install the RH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing marks on the sprocket.
48. Position the RH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the RH timing chain tensioner.
49. Remove the retaining clip from the RH timing chain tensioner.
50. Make sure that the copper (marked) chain links are lined up with the dots on the crankshaft sprockets and the camshaft sprocket.
51. NOTE: Sensor ring teeth must face forward.
Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
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52. NOTE: If the engine front cover is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with metal surface cleaner. Allow to dry until there
is no sign of wetness or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future leakage.
Apply silicone gasket and sealant in the locations shown.
53. Install a new engine front cover gasket on the engine front cover. Position the engine front cover. Install the fasteners finger-tight.
54. Tighten the front cover fasteners in the sequence shown.
Item Part Number Description
1 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
2 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
3 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
4 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
5 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
6 W706508 Stud, Hex Shldr Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 50 — M6 x 1 x 10
7 N808586 Stud and Washer, Hex Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 60 — M6 x 1 x 26
8 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
9 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
10 N806177 Bolt, Hex Flange Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 53
11 N806300 Stud, Hex Shldr Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 65 — M8 x 1.25 x 26
12 W706560 Stud and Washer, Hex-Head Pilot, M8 x 1.25 x 65 — M8 x 1.25 x 16
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Portmaster

Hahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2 motors and youre an expert,LMAO. While some engines may have torque to yeild head bolts the 302 Ford isn't one of them. While it may be a good idea to swap head bolts especially when building a performance engine if it has the stock or cast Iron head the stock head bolts can be reused and it sure won't cause his braking problem. Only on the internet, lol

grabbem88

ooooh i love copy and paste.....atleast we know you are that smart

o2jayjay

gdof`j