camaroeater

just replaced the module with a Napa one and the problem is NOT gone. If anything its worse. I cleaned the module mating surface real good, applied a 1/32 coat of dielectric grease. I even performed a base idle reset since battery was disconnected and then set timing to 14* how it was before. What else could it be?

FivePointOhh

have you pulled codes? ICM's only run like 25 bucks.

have you even test the PIP/hall sensor? you could save yourself time and money testing your equipment vs buying things.

grnstang

buy some MAF cleaner and do that. i havent read this whole thread but what about fuel filter? firing order correct? timing correct? you might have a bad distributor

Joel5.0

Lock out timing, remove SPOUT connector, set initial to 26°+, leave the SPOUT disconnected, test drive it and LUK.

camaroeater

sorry, double post

camaroeater

i set timing to 26* with spout out and left it off. I test drove it and the problem is worse w/o spout it even made a noise that sounded like the flywheel grinding. Also, when i first fired it up after fixing it, i could hear a noise from where the tranny was, it sounded like the h pipe vibrating against something Then after a minute or so it went away.

Joel5.0

Does the tachometer do something like = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiyCdYi6OMw ?

grabbem88

he did have the module tested,and we were told it tested bad and failed.

joel had him lock the timing out..which took the ecu out of the equation.

so what does this leave to check?

camaroeater

Joel, i reved the engine over 4K and the needle is steady, doesn't flucuate or anything. I did hear that vibrating noise near midpipe once the needle is over 2500rpms. I adjusted my midpipe not too long ago, so im sure its not loose. What could that noise be? It sounds like the midpipe is against the frame vibrating.

camaroeater

Problem is Solved!!!

so last night im looking at parts on the web and I end up looking at a close up photo of my
Accel rotor. I look at it and realize that the metal tab on the rotor is bent upwards further than mine and remember that my was bent downward more. So i bent the metal tab up on my rotor and took it for a ride. I drove almost perfect, cut out just a couple times, where before i could only drive 20ft. Also, i noticed that the metal ring that goes around dizzy cap button was worn down on one side. I just installed a new MSD cap and rotor and im 100% now, it drives perfect.

I've replaced the coil, wires, and ignition module with no luck and get this, just yesterday i ordered a stock dizzy for $250... when it was a $5 dollar part i needed. I want to thank everyone for input on this problem.