dysfunction26

There is a place called Blue Oval Industries on ebay as well, has anyone tried them for headlights?

drifter07

question. are you trying to do a lot of little things to make it look like there is a big difference? or are you wanting to get the most bang for your buck in horsepower?? within the 1000 range you could do one of the 2 that i suggest. you could do a stroker kit or get a good set of heads. and for headlights idk about ebay products but uprproducts.com you have choices between stock, clear, or smoked 6 piece headlights for 100 dollars...

USMC1775

blueovalindustries is good, Ive used them several times

dysfunction26

I'm trying to do some basic things to increase HP, I am not looking for an 11 second 1/4 mile, or anything crazy. I would like to get it down to the high 12's low 13 range over time. I've owned a 72 Nova and 67 Chevelle, this is my first experience with a Ford at all.

drifter07

well.... i have a 347 stroker with stock e7 heads (for right now) and t 5 with some modifications and i was sticking with and sometimes beating new 6.0 6 speed gto's... idk what they do in the quarter, i think its like low or mid 13's but anyways i was suprized.. also... nitrous would be a quick way to get you there... idk if your into that or not. im not... but just giving you ideas... what kind of transmission?

mjr46

gears, drag radials, CAI, full exhaust, get rid of clutch fan , add an elec fan, stregthen torque boxes, upper and lower control arms, subframes and if it's a 5 spd car, drive it like you stole it and if it doesn't hit low 13's I'd be suprised, I've seen many stock internal long block 5.0's run low 13's with ease with such mods

NotchAbove

Its not much of a budget, and not sure of your overall goal. If you just want to make some mods to it and pick up a few horses along the way then I would do a set of headers, subframe connectors, a shifter as someone else mentioned is an excellent choice as well. I love a Pro 5.0 shifter. Have been using them for about 12 years in various cars, it does not disappoint.

Good luck and sorry to hear about your friend.

oh I run 255/50/16 Mickey Thompsons on the ponies. Rubbing is very close on the tailpipes, plus I do not have quad shocks.

dysfunction26

OK. I went to start the car, I knew it needed to be jumped and kind of figured the battery would be toast. It would not jump, so I pulled the battery and headed to Kragen to have it checked, it would not hold a charge. I picked up a new battery, put it in, turned the key and nothing. All of the lights come on and I can hear the fuel pump running (I think). When I turn the key...nothing. No click, no noise at all. I checked the wiring and it seems all in order. I pulled all the fuses under the dash, just to check and they were OK. Any ideas on what would make the car do nothing when the key is turned?

Thanks in advance.

AdderMk2

take a screwdriver across the solenoid on the drivers fender... it has two large terminals on it. if the car cranks over when you do that, you need a new one (they are cheap though)

dysfunction26

Thanks! I will try that, I am going to head back over there on Wednesday, it is about a 30 mile drive each way. Could it be the ignition switch, or is that something totally unrelated?