joelacer

Hello,

So a while back my 1995 mustang gt started to intermittently die on me, usually on the freeway under load. Then after a few times of dying, it refused to start at all. It would crank all day long, but not start. It seemed to make no difference whether the car was hot or cold. So I went ahead and replaced the the spark plug wires, cap/rotor and ignition module. After that, it started up no problem. Then a few days later it developed the current problem. Now it starts up fine, but the idle is kind of unsteady, and when I have it in neutral, when I press on the gas pedal it will rev up (though it sounds like its struggling to), then as soon as I lift off, the rpms drop below idle the engine will die unless I quickly give it a quick jab of the gas pedal. It also wants to choke/stall when I press to far down on the gas, like flooring it. In first gear under load it acts the same (I haven't tried it in any other gears since I don't want to end up stranded). Also the check engine light comes on and stays on when I start it up. I've been reading some other posts and I'm wondering could it be a vacuum leak issue? Any advice/suggestions would be great thanks guys.

joelacer

bump. Anybody?

Riceinator

Since the check engine light is on, I would start by pulling the codes.
EDIT: I noticed you have an MSD Blaster Coil, try swapping in your stock coil and see if the problem goes away. I had a similar symptoms when my msd coil was quitting on me.

joelacer

I ordered a code reader, just haven't had time to check codes yet, so I'll get on that and get back to you soon. Also sorry for the confusion but the MSD blaster coil was the old ignition coil that I replaced it with a generic new one from rockauto.com.

mjr46

you can do a koer test without a code reader, google DIY koer

calfroper_06

Yea run the KOER test, also wouldnt be a bad idea to go ahead and clean you maf

joelacer

I know its possible to do the KOER tests w/o the scanner, but it was only $20 on ebay, and I'd rather not have to worry about hooking up my own wires and wondering if I'm doing it right. What's a good way to clean the MAF? I think I read on here somewhere to spray it out with carb cleaner?

joelacer

UPDATE:

So I went out to run the KOEO tests, since the car is now apparently back to cranking and not starting at all again. The main hard codes I got were 122 and 564. 122 according to my haynes manual means the TPS reading is below minimum voltage. The other code says fan circuit fault, but I'm going to assume that is not what is keeping it from starting. I check the wires going to it and the rubber insulation on the wires is cracked. I haven't had a chance to backprobe it, but do you think its shorting out somewhere? And if so, where can I get a replacement connector and wires?