5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Engine Build/Rebuilding Advice and Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-26-2009, 01:20 PM
  #1  
Catchpole
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Catchpole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 254
Default Engine Build/Rebuilding Advice and Help

I figure it's about time to start seriously hunting for some power, but I think I want to pick up a second motor and build/rebuild that on an engine stand in my garage.

Is there a good step by step book for this?

Is there a particular rebuild kit you'd suggest?


My goals for the motor are the same as most other peoples: a reliable daily driver that can handle most cars at stop light encounters. I'd love to be sitting in the mid 300's for torque and horse power.

Is there a particulare H/C/I set up you'd suggest?

Would moving up to a stroker be a bad idea? I was thinking maybe a 331?


I've been doing a fair amount of research, but I'd really like to hear from guys with a few smudges on their wrenches than some random article telling me about afr heads and the 400 hp they make.


Thank you for any and all help and advice.
Catchpole is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:30 PM
  #2  
84conversion50
2nd Gear Member
 
84conversion50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 451
Default

i would also like to know what a solid good simple build would be. this extra 302 is staring me in the face.
84conversion50 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:38 PM
  #3  
FLcracker9
3rd Gear Member
 
FLcracker9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 528
Default

I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
FLcracker9 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:49 PM
  #4  
84conversion50
2nd Gear Member
 
84conversion50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 451
Default

Originally Posted by FLcracker9
I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
1599 for a shortblock...... and thats cheaper than rebuilding the one you have?
i think it was going to be 1200 after all my machine work and touching up the heads.
84conversion50 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:53 PM
  #5  
Catchpole
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Catchpole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 254
Default

Originally Posted by FLcracker9
I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
Awesome, that's exactly what I need.

I heard that the 347's have issues with cooling, I'm not a hundred percent set on the 331 or anything because I know I still have a lot to research and learn.
Catchpole is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 02:45 PM
  #6  
AdderMk2
Banned
 
AdderMk2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
Default

there are NO cooling, OR oil burning issues with the 5.315" rod 347 strokers... instead of listening to those who pass along internet rumor... try asking those of us who actually HAVE one
AdderMk2 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 02:56 PM
  #7  
adam1993
 
adam1993's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: fla
Posts: 15
Default

after dealing with a machine shop i spent 5000 for forged crank pistons and rods its a 306 with a girdle jegs has crate motors that are fully dressed for the same or less i got a valve job cam dizzy 7 qt oil pan and the work was top of the line i still had to assemble it myself rings rods install the pistons fight the oil pick up get a bigger pan and work super late but im very happy with it but think aboult it
adam1993 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 07:34 PM
  #8  
FLcracker9
3rd Gear Member
 
FLcracker9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 528
Default

Originally Posted by 84conversion50
1599 for a shortblock...... and thats cheaper than rebuilding the one you have?
i think it was going to be 1200 after all my machine work and touching up the heads.
We need more details on what's included in your $1200 rebuild?. The prices around here are $700 - $800 for block work (if done correctly). Then you add a Scat stroker kit @ $900, and you're at $1700 without balancing, or pressing the pistons on the rods?. $1200 may net you a basic rebuild with cast pistons, but it doesn't get you a balanced, forged piston shortblock that will handle the 350+ horsepower he's looking for.
FLcracker9 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 07:44 PM
  #9  
FLcracker9
3rd Gear Member
 
FLcracker9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 528
Default

Originally Posted by adam1993
after dealing with a machine shop i spent 5000 for forged crank pistons and rods its a 306 with a girdle jegs has crate motors that are fully dressed for the same or less i got a valve job cam dizzy 7 qt oil pan and the work was top of the line i still had to assemble it myself rings rods install the pistons fight the oil pick up get a bigger pan and work super late but im very happy with it but think aboult it
Did you install that forged crank in your stock block?, if so, it was overkill ($$$). Was that what you wanted or did the machine shop convince you that you needed it? A stock 302 block will break long before a stock crankshaft will let go, therefore no need to go with a forged crank unless you step up to an aftermarket block?.
FLcracker9 is offline  
Old 04-26-2009, 07:58 PM
  #10  
mjr46
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
Default

no cooling issues on my 347 stroker
mjr46 is offline  


Quick Reply: Engine Build/Rebuilding Advice and Help



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:28 AM.