Engine Build/Rebuilding Advice and Help
#1
Engine Build/Rebuilding Advice and Help
I figure it's about time to start seriously hunting for some power, but I think I want to pick up a second motor and build/rebuild that on an engine stand in my garage.
Is there a good step by step book for this?
Is there a particular rebuild kit you'd suggest?
My goals for the motor are the same as most other peoples: a reliable daily driver that can handle most cars at stop light encounters. I'd love to be sitting in the mid 300's for torque and horse power.
Is there a particulare H/C/I set up you'd suggest?
Would moving up to a stroker be a bad idea? I was thinking maybe a 331?
I've been doing a fair amount of research, but I'd really like to hear from guys with a few smudges on their wrenches than some random article telling me about afr heads and the 400 hp they make.
Thank you for any and all help and advice.
Is there a good step by step book for this?
Is there a particular rebuild kit you'd suggest?
My goals for the motor are the same as most other peoples: a reliable daily driver that can handle most cars at stop light encounters. I'd love to be sitting in the mid 300's for torque and horse power.
Is there a particulare H/C/I set up you'd suggest?
Would moving up to a stroker be a bad idea? I was thinking maybe a 331?
I've been doing a fair amount of research, but I'd really like to hear from guys with a few smudges on their wrenches than some random article telling me about afr heads and the 400 hp they make.
Thank you for any and all help and advice.
#3
I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
#4
I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
i think it was going to be 1200 after all my machine work and touching up the heads.
#5
I've rebuilt a few engines in my day, and I'll be replacing mine in the next year or so. What I can tell you from experience is, it will cost you more in the long run to have quality machine work on the block, and to purchase and install a kit (stroked or non-stroked). An assembled short block from a reputable shop is the way to go. If you want the satisfaction of building it yourself, check out Woody's "Do It Yourself Liberator Shortblock Assemblies" @ http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-liberator-short-blocks/. You can't beat the price. You can also have a custom ground cam through Camshaft Innovations, then you'll have one sweet shortblock. Add a good set of heads and you won't have too many problems at the traffic lights. If you are building a motor from scratch, there's really no reason not to go 347?.
I heard that the 347's have issues with cooling, I'm not a hundred percent set on the 331 or anything because I know I still have a lot to research and learn.
#7
after dealing with a machine shop i spent 5000 for forged crank pistons and rods its a 306 with a girdle jegs has crate motors that are fully dressed for the same or less i got a valve job cam dizzy 7 qt oil pan and the work was top of the line i still had to assemble it myself rings rods install the pistons fight the oil pick up get a bigger pan and work super late but im very happy with it but think aboult it
#8
We need more details on what's included in your $1200 rebuild?. The prices around here are $700 - $800 for block work (if done correctly). Then you add a Scat stroker kit @ $900, and you're at $1700 without balancing, or pressing the pistons on the rods?. $1200 may net you a basic rebuild with cast pistons, but it doesn't get you a balanced, forged piston shortblock that will handle the 350+ horsepower he's looking for.
#9
after dealing with a machine shop i spent 5000 for forged crank pistons and rods its a 306 with a girdle jegs has crate motors that are fully dressed for the same or less i got a valve job cam dizzy 7 qt oil pan and the work was top of the line i still had to assemble it myself rings rods install the pistons fight the oil pick up get a bigger pan and work super late but im very happy with it but think aboult it