5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Sub Frame Connectors

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-08-2009, 08:55 AM
  #1  
1BIGMOFO
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
1BIGMOFO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,450
Default Sub Frame Connectors

I currently have a full cage in my 94, GT. I am going to install Subframe Connectors this weekend and i just want to make sure i do it right.

Right now the engine is out of the car and the interior is stripped. I have the front of the car on jackstands connected to the body about 3 feet off the ground. The back of the car is 3 feet off the ground as well but i have the stands on the rear axle. All 4 jackstands are on the same notch and the floor is 100% level (brand new garage).

Does the engine have to be in the car when welding in the Subframes so weight is distributed correctly? Does all 4 jackstands have to be on the body or does it matter that the back is on the axle?

I want to do this once and do it right so your help is appreciated

Thank you for the help,

Bob
1BIGMOFO is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 10:16 AM
  #2  
Portmaster
5th Gear Member
 
Portmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,401
Default

I would have the full weight in the car and sitting on the wheels before welding them in. Thats just personal preferance. I've seen it done with the engine out and it was OK. My Subframe connectors will be the last thing I do on my car after the paint and all the doors are adjusted just right.
Portmaster is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:26 AM
  #3  
Tony71502
5th Gear Member
 
Tony71502's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,459
Default

Like he said, you want the suspension loaded. Your front suspension included. I did mine when the car was sitting on top of 2 concrete blocks under each wheel. Without the motor in your front end your body is deflecting differently than it would be with the extra weight up there, you're going to weld subframes to the car when it doesn't have it's normal shape. Motor in, on the wheels, then weld it. Small differences of about a hundred lbs, like if you weren't in the car or when you do future weight reduction wont make much of a difference. But a good 500 lbs from a concentrated point(engine bay) will make a diff.
Tony71502 is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:29 AM
  #4  
1BIGMOFO
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
1BIGMOFO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,450
Default

Where can i hold the car up in the front so the full weight is on the suspension? I didnt think it was ok to use a jackstand on the A arm.. I want it to be right.
What happens if its welded in and the car isnt sitting right?? Will the car drive weird or have a strange stance?
1BIGMOFO is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:31 AM
  #5  
1BIGMOFO
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
1BIGMOFO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,450
Default

Originally Posted by Tony71502
Like he said, you want the suspension loaded. Your front suspension included. I did mine when the car was sitting on top of 2 concrete blocks under each wheel. Without the motor in your front end your body is deflecting differently than it would be with the extra weight up there, you're going to weld subframes to the car when it doesn't have it's normal shape. Motor in, on the wheels, then weld it. Small differences of about a hundred lbs, like if you weren't in the car or when you do future weight reduction wont make much of a difference. But a good 500 lbs from a concentrated point(engine bay) will make a diff.


Great idea. Thanks fo rthe input. Im going to get some concrete blocks tonight..

I appreciate the help.
1BIGMOFO is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:34 AM
  #6  
cch
3rd Gear Member
 
cch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 741
Default

+1 I'd only ever do it on a drive-on hoist with full weight dispersed evenly to all 4 corners. If not you'll be twisted and uneven which goes against the whole purpose of installing subframes in the first place.. which is to stay straight.
cch is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:58 AM
  #7  
1BIGMOFO
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
1BIGMOFO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,450
Default

Perfect, thanks man.
1BIGMOFO is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:56 PM
  #8  
Tony71502
5th Gear Member
 
Tony71502's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,459
Default

Just be careful when putting it on the blocks, make sure you chalk wheels/use parking brake. You may have to put a block under neath your floor jack to get it high enough, I did, just make sure there is ample room on the block under the jack for the jack to roll forward without falling off the front of the concrete block. Again, I hope your putting the motor back in before doing this.
Tony71502 is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 01:09 PM
  #9  
1BIGMOFO
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
1BIGMOFO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,450
Default

I am, thank you for the help.
1BIGMOFO is offline  
Old 05-08-2009, 03:34 PM
  #10  
Portmaster
5th Gear Member
 
Portmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SC
Posts: 2,401
Default

If I were you I would have a Muffler shop weld them on. Most of them have a drive on lift and the guys can weld their azzes off. I use to weld them on in my shop for 50 dollars. I only have a two post above ground lift at home now so I'll get my local exhaust guy to do it. I don't like the concrete block idea. I've seen to much stuff go wrong in my 50+ years in a shop. Anything that can break when you drop it I wont trust with a car sitting on it. I'm paranoid, lol
Portmaster is offline  


Quick Reply: Sub Frame Connectors



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:01 PM.